We have a few new
arrivals at Regional that we think are well worth shouting about. Alastair is
delighted to have got his hands on some terrific cru Beaujolais
from the outstanding 2009 vintage. Situated just north of Lyon, it is classified
as part of Burgundy although its climate is more similar to the Northern Rhône There
are 10 Cru Beaujolais villages/areas within the Beaujolais AOC ranging from the
light fresh styles such as Brouilly or Chiroubles through to the more full
bodied, darker more age-worthy wines such as Morgon or Moulin-à-Vent. While not
quite scaling the heights of the Côte d’Beaune or Côte d’Or, the wines from the
Beaujolais Cru can offer age-worthy, complex wines that are terrific value
compared to much of Burgundy.
Of particular interest are the old-vine wines from Potel-Aviron of which we have
silky, perfumed Fleurie, a rich, spicy Julènas and a full bodied, powerful
Moulin-à-Vent. From the stable of Dominique Prion we have a Moulin-à-Vent, and
two from Morgon including the Morgon Côte du Py which is a narrow strip that
produces concentrated, structured wines more like the Côte d’Or than Beaujolais. These wines are not terribly expensive, all
around $30.00 and are well worth trying.
I am also very
impressed with another release from the 2009 vintage, this time a little closer
to home. Millton’s Domaine Clos de Ste. Anne Naboth’s vineyard, initially
planted with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, has been biodynamically farmed since
1989. Viognier and Syrah have subsequently been planted with great success. This
vineyard is best known for the quality of its chardonnay and this is the finest
vintage I can recall. The Clos de Ste. Anne Naboth's Chardonnay 2009 is powerful, distinctive wine. A gorgeous bright colour in the glass, the bouquet is enticing and rich with floral notes, peach and stone. The palate is elegant and minerally
with mouth-filling flavour and fine acidity. This will age superbly, gaining
complexity and subtlety. Highly recommended.
The Viognier Les Arbres 2009 is extraordinarily
powerful wine, hiding its 14.5% alcohol with ease. Exotically perfumed with a
rich, velvety, almost slippery texture, flavours of quince and apricot persist
on an extended finish.
Pinot Noir in
Gisborne? What was James thinking! Well he has effortlessly proved any sceptics
wrong with this delightful Clos de Ste.Anne Naboth's Pinot Noir 2009. Light in colour (to paraphrase the old saw
about books - never judge a Burgundy
by its colour) this has an enticing red-fruit bouquet with hints of mushroom
and other savoury notes, wonderful silky mouthfeel and fine tannins. Long and
elegant. This will gain complexity over the years. Bottled without fining or
filtration.
Lastly, the Crucible Syrah 2009. I was a big fan of
the deliciously elegant 2008 edition and this is a (big) step up. Deeply
coloured, the nose shows fabulously ripe fruit while retaining delicate floral
notes, not just from the addition of Viognier, along with spice and pepper. On
entry the wine has flood of sweet fruit balanced with umami-like complexity
before the structure becomes apparent. There are plenty of fine, ripe tannins
present hidden by the power of the fruit. Classy oak handling enhances the wine
beautifully. This will age effortlessly for some years. Bottled without
filtration. Highly recommended.
This is a superb
quartet of wines, congratulations to Annie, James and the rest of the Millton
team.