As a growing region,
Waipara and the greater Canterbury
growing region has seen phenomenal growth.
Over the last five plus years since 2003, the number of wineries has
risen from 42 to 54 and registered grape growers from 25 to 61. The area planted has increased dramatically
from 601 to over 1,730 hectares, making Canterbury
the fourth largest vignoble in this country, behind Marlborough,
Hawke’s Bay and Gisborne, but ahead of Central Otago.
Pinot Noir has proven to be the great
success, with Riesling the other star.
Pinot Gris is becoming increasingly important, but Sauvignon Blanc and
Chardonnay also figure in the varieties giving excellent results. We highlight two sensational new Canterbury labels that
represent the quality behind this growth and offer two wines from each:
Terrace Edge - Waipara
Situated on the south bank
of the Waipara River
in North Canterbury, the Chapman family owned
Terrace Edge operation encompasses a 12 hectare vineyard planted to Pinot Noir,
Riesling, Pinot Gris and Syrah, along with 2000 olive trees. The Chapmans are dedicated to the land as shown
by their commitment to the ‘Greening Waipara’ project aimed at increasing
biological diversity through the restoration of native vegetation. The most meticulous vineyard management has
seen their pristine fruit keenly sought-after by local wineries. And Terrace Edge won Canterbury’s first Extra Virgin Olive Oil
gold medal in 2005! The vineyard is
overseen by Peter Chapman and the wines made by the talented Belinda Gould at the
Muddy Water winery.
Terrace Edge
Waipara Valley Riesling 2008
This is classic Waipara
Riesling with its intense jasmine and lime florals and subtle, but
flavour-building palate which has superb fruit weight and concentration, with
finesse and great line and length. A
medium style at 13.1% alc and 18 g/l rs, this was made from hand-picked fruit
harvested at a low 1.9 tonne/acre and fermented with indigenous yeasts along
with 5% botrytised fruit to add wild honey complexities. A Riesling of sheer class. The Chapmans intend to investigate the
increasingly popular Germanic, low alcohol style of Riesling to complement the
proven Waipara expression in the future.
Terrace Edge
Waipara Valley Pinot Gris 2008
If fruit weight and
texture can be built into a Pinot Gris wine, it is bound to be a good
example. Too many examples of this
variety are alcoholic, bland and propped up by sugar. Not so the Terrace Edge wine, made from
hand-picked fruit at 2 tonne/acre, whole cluster pressed and fermented with
native yeasts in seasoned oak barrels, the wine was given lees stirring three
times a day for a month. The resulting
wine has real aromatic profile and an intensity of spiced pears, brioche and
nutty nuances that unfold in the glass.
A very impressive effort indeed.
Mt Beautiful – Cheviot Hills
The establishment in
2004 of the Mt Beautiful vineyards near the banks of the Waiau
River in the Cheviot Hills, about an
hour’s drive north of Waipara has meant the creation of a new wine-growing region
for New Zealand. Renowned U.S.-based academic Dr David Teece
and his wife Leigh wanted to create something unique in his homeland and the Cheviot Hills development is so, the first wines
possessing a style that has elements of the warm Waipara region to the south
and the cooler Awatere vignoble two and a half hours to the north. 70 hectares are planted, 50 ha to Sauvignon
Blanc, 12 ha to Pinot Noir and 5 ha each to Pinot Gris and Riesling, and the
wines are made by Marlborough-based, multi-award winning winemaker Sam
Weaver. The Mt Beautiful wines are truly
beautifully presented, and the label features the handwriting of David’s father
Allan, taken from his letters sent home while serving with the N.Z. Expeditionary
Force in Europe and the Middle East. And yes, Mt Beautiful is a real mountain in
the coastal ranges, protecting the vineyard from the seaward winds.
Mt
Beautiful Cheviot Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2008
A youthfully pale wine,
this is tight and restrained with cooler expressions of Sauvignon Blanc, such
as herbs and minerals over the English gooseberry varietal character, very much
in the Awatere Valley style, only less exuberant. There is still no mistaking the wine as
classical Sauvignon, but its refinement will enable it to be extremely versatile
with seafoods, especially shellfish, creamy sauce chicken and pork dishes, all
salads and goats cheeses. Cool fermented
to 13.5% alc and 2.5 g/l residual sugar, this will drink well over the next 3-5
years.
Mt
Beautiful Cheviot Hills Pinot Noir 2007
The style of this Pinot
Noir is that of an elegant Waipara one, with ripe, dark and red berry flavours,
with a round and more accessible palate and slightly broader structure than
those of Marlborough. That being said, it is a delicious and
satisfying drop, with its lovely fruit base characters lifted with florals and
a savoury bramble note adding interest.
At 12.5% alcohol, this avoids any excessive heat, and its time of 11
months in 30% new French oak shows sensitive handling. We reckon this will drink well over the next
4-6 years. It will certainly be
interesting to see how the Cheviot Hills wines
develop.