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Wine Review

Ngatarawa ‘Alwyn’ Chardonnay & Red Wines

By Raymond Chan
The modern era of Ngatarawa’s flagship wines under the ‘Alwyn’ designation really came about from the 1998 vintage, according to Peter Gough, the hands-on man who has worked closely with Alwyn Corban for 15 years. Before then, the concept was established, but the vintage conditions did not deliver. Come 1998 and since then, the harvest conditions and experienced hands have made the difference. In a series of recent vertical tastings, a look at the ‘Alwyn’ Chardonnay and Bordeaux-styled wines certainly fitted in, adding to the growing sense of history that our wine industry is developing.

‘Alwyn’ Chardonnay 1998 - 2006


We looked at the ‘Alwyn’ Chardonnay first, from 1998 to 2006, along with the 2006 ‘Glazebrook’ Chardonnay to see how techniques with the ‘Alwyn’ had rubbed off onto the ‘Glazebrook’ wine. Low cropped vines, no MLF and a reduction in the use of new French oak, from 100% for the 1998 to the current usage of around 35% are features of the winemaking. Inoculated yeasts at present too, and happy with them.

The older three ‘Alwyn’ Chardonnays were a set in that their colours were more golden and there was oxidation present on the nose. They were fully mature, yet all three worked and were attractive. The 1998 (17.5+/20) was ultra-ripe with tropical fruits and a big dose of gorgeous toasty oak. Some heat and lowish acid, but decadent and powerful stuff. The 1999 (17.0/20) was the darkest, but lighter in weight, but then again had more acidity and freshness. Nut and mineral notes. The 2000 (18.0-/20) was the best of the trio of older wines with its lovely richness and sweetness of tropical fruits and an excellent proportion.

The younger wines could handle more time, if required. My pick of the Chardonnay bunch was the 2002 (19.0-/20), for its lovely tropical fruit and mealy flavours with fine toasty oak. Supple and fine-grained and subtle in expression. Essentially straight up and down, without modern complexities. The 2004 (18.5+/20) showed these modern sulphide complexities that are prevalent in the current crop of super-duper Chardonnays. This was very White Burgundian. And the 2006 (18.0+/20) along the same lines as the 2004, but as yet undeveloped. The 2006 ‘Glazebrook’ Chardonnay (18.5+/20) was superb in the light of these ‘Alwyns’. Not as big, nor quite as concentrated, but more upfront with the ripe fruit ad mealy notes giving interest. A bargain!

All in all, a wonderful vertical, showing the optimum time to drink these is around the 5-6 year period from vintage.

‘Alwyn’ Bordeaux-Varietal Reds 1998 – 2006


It was really with the red wines that 1998 marked a turning point for Ngatarawa’s ‘Alwyn’ wine. That hot and dry vintage turned out so many super wines. And they are still developing well. In 1998, the Ngatarawa team had such individual wines that they kept parcels separate to preserve their qualities. The 1998 ‘Alwyn’ Merlot (18.0/20) was now showing secondary characters, game, plums and chocolate. Hint of animal? But still fresh on palate. Peter Gough liked this one. I loved the 1998 ‘Alwyn’ Cabernet Sauvignon (19.0-/20). Superb depth of cassis. Great power and intensity, this will last another decade easily.

The 2002 (17.5+/20) was gentle in texture, inky with oak and some secondary development. Tobacco and olives, and no greenness. However, showing great harmony and balance was the 2005 (18.5/20). Lovely elegant and supple wine with hidden power and legs to go the distance.

The final three wines sat together well. The 2006 ‘Glazebrook’ Merlot (17.5+/20) was sweet, plumy and jammy. Almost rotoferment wine. Deliciously youthful, simple and pure, and on the lightish side. The 2005 ‘Glazebrook’ Melot/Cabernet (17.0/20) was a different beast. More extraction and weight, the fruit needing a little more pep to match it. On to the 2006 ‘Alwyn’ Merlot/Cabernet (18.5-/20). At this stage selling it ‘en primeur’, as it will be released at the end of September. Vibrant and classical claret in structure, with plums and spices. A fine-grained wine that will develop well over the next 7-10 years. As with all the reds, these are not show stoppers, but good drinkers.

Good philosophy the team at Ngatarawa have!
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DAVID

Easter weekend I flew up to Auckland and had a great time visiting family. I made sure I went to Maison Vauron, a must if you enjoy French wines and also Galbraiths to try a few craft beers.

RICHARD

Roast Chicken for dinner evidently. Which Kumeu River Chardy shall I choose?
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