ITEM:
TOTAL:
Wine Review

Champagne Nv Shootout

By Raymond Chan
The crowning achievement for Champagne producers we are told is the consistent output of a house’s non-vintage wine. The maintenance and dependability of the signature wine of a Champagne house is all important for image and loyalty by the drinker. By far, the greatest effort goes into the retention of quality and style, more often in adverse and changeable vintages. It is remarkable how consistency is kept, and surely is indicative of the blenders’ skills and art, balancing the three cepages (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier), the three main geographical sources (Montagne de Reims, Vallee de la Marne and the Cote des Blancs) and the juice from different vintages.

Regional Wines conducted this comparison of signature Non-Vintage Champagnes to check on the different house styles and to look at the overall quality of the most important wines in the sparkling wine category. 18 Non-Vintage Champagnes were served blind in approximate increasing public awareness of the brand. Here are my notes on the wines in the order of presentation:

Flight One


The first flight of wines with lesser-known brands or those on the improve. An even group of wines, all showing decent fruit expression, clean and fresh and quite approachable. Good quality with no technical issues of note. Finesse and interest lacking in comparison with the wines of the following flights. The preferred wines were of both the powerful and delicately expressed styles.

Piper-Heidsieck Champagne Brut NV
Reims, 12.0% alc., 15% Ch, 55% PN, 30% PM
Pale straw colour. Quite tight and fine on the nose with Pinot Noir aromas, and well-balanced autolysis yeast characters. Softish textures and creamy, with slightly sour and acid Pinot fruit, lighter autolysis, the palate has a slight grip, the acid rather pronounced, but with good length. 16.5-/20

Lanvin Champagne Brut NV
Epernay, proprietary label of Charles de Casanove, 12.0% alc
Pale straw colour. Clean, shy and delicate nose with Pinot Meunier fruitiness. Crisp and clean palate, lighter fruitiness and not that rich and weighty. Light autolysis showing. Fresh, light, easy and accessible wine with a pleasing gentleness. 17.0+/20

Gosset ‘Grande Reserve’ Champagne Brut NV
Ay-Champagne, 12.0% alc., 46% Ch, 38% PN, 16% PM
Straw yellow colour. Intense powerful nose, slightly sour through a light oxidative expression. Real depth and intensity on the palate, complex and savoury with strong Pinot Noir fruit and oxidative notes. Plenty of matching autolysis adding to the interest. Good richness and length. 18.0+/20

Duval-Leroy ‘Fleur’ Champagne Brut NV
Vertus, 12.0% alc., 73% Ch, 27% PN
Straw yellow colour with a pale edge. Excellent depth and weight of floral Chardonnay fruit aromas, with a hint of muskiness. Some sweetness and fruitiness on palate, softly textured with a rich lusciousness, well-balanced with good acidity providing cut, fades a little on finish. Second most preferred wine of the flight by the group of tasters. My score 17.0-/20

de Venoge ‘Cordon Bleu’ Champagne Brut NV
Epernay, 12.0% alc., 25% Ch, 50% PN, 25% PM
Pale straw yellow. Very soft and delicate on the nose with light toast notes, quite harmonious. Lighter wine, quite delicate, verging on weak. Simpler wine, quite soft, a little rubbery sulphide component, but approachable and easy to drink. Third preferred wine of the flight for the group. However, my score 16.0-/20

Ayala Champagne Brut NV
Ay-Champagne, 12.0% alc., 25% Ch, 60% PN, 15% PM
Straw colour with a pale edge. Good depth of Pinot Noir fruit on the nose, a savoury complex note, and a slight harshness in expression. Quite dry and full-bodied, robust and full, and open in expression. Good size, but essentially not complex, and a touch hollow. Good acidic length. The most preferred wine of the flight by the group. My score 16.5+/20

Flight Two


An excellent flight showing great consistency of quality and in fact, style. No real weaknesses in expression were noted. The wines show good fruit expression, whether Chardonnay or Pinot based, and fine autolytic balance as a background complexity. Here, the more aromatic, and creamy textured Chardonnay expression was appreciated by the group in general. All of the wines are eminently drinkable and a testament to the high standards achieved by the Champagne producers across the board.

Deutz ‘Classic’ Champagne Brut NV
Ay-Champagne, 12.0% alc., 30% Ch, 38% PN, 32% PM
Pale straw colour. Very fine and tight on the nose, excellent concentration, textbook purity of fruit and balanced autolysis. Palate is the same, with fabulous finesse and concentration, power with delicacy, real style and length on the finish. 18.5/20

Lanson ‘Black Label’ Champagne Brut NV
Reims, 12.5% alc., 35% Ch, 50% PN, 15% PM
Straw yellow with a pale edge. Quite fine and elegant nose with good depth of fruit and yeasty autolysis showing. Dry, broader palate, well-flavoured with balanced fruit and autolysis again, though a little firmness and grip in textural terms giving a slight coarseness. Good acidity and length through the palate. 17.5+/20

Laurent-Perrier ‘Brut L-P’ Champagne NV
Tours-Sur-Marne, 12.0% alc., 45% Ch, 40% PN, 15% PM
Pale straw colour. Very fine, lifted and aromatic Chardonnay nose, delicate autolysis, but with good depth. Soft, creamy textures, gentle and ‘fluffy, with lovely fineness and elegance. Excellent balance and delicacy through the palate giving immediate accessibility and enjoyment. 18.0+/20

Louis Roederer ‘Brut Premier’ Champagne NV
Reims, 12.0% alc., 30% Ch, 62% PN, 8% PM
Pale straw colour with a pale edge. Full, broad nose with richness of Pinot Noir fruit and powerful autolysis, yet freshness and a stylishness. Dry and fine textured, good concemtration and plenty of autolysis, rich and broad through the palate, good acidity giving freshness, well-balanced. 18.5+/20

Mumm ‘Cordon Rouge’ Champagne Brut NV
Reims, 12.0% alc., 28% Ch, 50% PN, 22% PM
Straw yellow with a pale edge. Attractively concentrated nose with even, aromatic lift of Chardonnay, quite tightly bound. Dry and elegantly constructed, not that rich, and somewhat plain and simple, lovely creamy elements however, lighter effervescence, easy and very approachable. However, the most preferred wine of the flight by the group, the elegance and aromatics of the wine being highly appreciated. My score 16.5-/20
The Products...
LAURENT PERRIER BRUT NV 750ML
Laurent Perrier Brut Nv 750Ml
Laurent-Perrier Champagne ‘Brut L-P’ NV The Champagne was clean ...
$99.10 750 MLS
More...
BOLLINGER SPECIAL CUVEE NV
Bollinger Special Cuvee Nv
The Bollinger ‘Special Cuvee’ NV (18.5+/20) just gets better and better, the last decade s...
$113.15 750 MLS
More...
MOET NECTAR IMPERIAL NV
Moet Nectar Imperial Nv
...
$82.25 750 MLS
More...
DEUTZ FRENCH CLASSIC NV
Deutz French Classic Nv
Deutz Champagne ‘Brut Classic’ NV 38% PN, 30% Ch, 32% PM. Dee...
$82.15 750 MLS
More...

1 2 3 4   
Staff Recommendations

DAVID

Summer has arrived.Time for socialising outdoors with good wine and food.

RICHARD

In Upper Mongolia it is customary for the first person that spots a man wearing an eyepatch to buy a round of drinks for everyone.
Breaking News
08-Feb-2012 - Interesting discovery with particular pertinence to NZ Syrah... Click Here
08-Feb-2012 - RT @WineSpectator: Wine's Three Biggest Lies (Wine Spectator): Why good wine lovers tell bad lies Click Here
04-Feb-2012 - RT @vickizorro: Love your work @regionalwines Click Here
26-Jan-2012 - Why do people either love or hate Riesling? Anto blogs about it here Click Here
View More...
Sign-up   below to be the first in the know on everything from tastings to specials...
Auburn Riesling 2011 Preview
Monday 13th February, 6.00pm start, Cost - No Charge, Limit 80 places. Instore, Regional Wines and Spirits, 15 Ellice St, Mt Victoria. Bookings with

Weird, Wacky and Wonderful – Rieslings Wild Side with Andrew Hedley
Tuesday 21st February, 6.00pm start, Cost $40.00 pp Limit 30 places. Upstairs Tasting Room, Regional Wines and Spirits, 15 Ellice St, Mt Victoria. B

Chenin Blanc Masterclass with James Millton and Gordon Russell
Tuesday 28th February, 6.00pm start, Cost $30.00 pp Limit 30 places. Upstairs Tasting Room, Regional Wines and Spirits, 15 Ellice St, Mt Victoria. Boo

TE MATA ESTATE SHOWCASE 2012
Wednesday 7th March, 6.00 pm start, Cost $35.00 pp, Limit 150 places Venue: St James Theatre, 77- 87 Courtenay Place Bookings: With Regional Wines,

Contact & Enquiries
Main Line: - 04 3856952

Orders Line: 04 3849735

Fax Line: 04 3828488

Hours: Mon – Sat 9am –10pm
Sunday & Public Holidays
11am - 7.30pm
Need Help?
Try our FAQ Section

If you can't find what you are after, give us a call or pop into the store!
People! Who we are
We're a talented mix of people who love what we do, and we've been doing it for over 20 years! Click here to find out more
Copyright © 2010 Regional Wines Limited
Website by: Slice Of HAM   Design by: Plastic Studio