Many wine lovers will be shocked at the price of these two wines, the most
expensive Pinot Noirs released in this country.
At around $175.00 each, the question must be asked: “Are they worth the
asking price?” The concept of value is
also raised, whenever cost is the subject.
Several of our Bordeaux-varietal based wines are well over the $100.00
mark, notably Stonyridge ‘Larose’ from Waiheke Island. And Montana’s
‘Tom’. Te Mata ‘Coleraine’ seems
positively good value at around the $75.00 mark. Trinity Hill’s ‘Homage’ and Craggy Range’s
‘Le Sol’ Syrahs are nudging the $100.00 level.
Our most expensive Chardonnays, such as Morton Estate ‘Coniglio’ seem
cheap at $65.00 to $70.00. And
Vinoptima’s Gewurztraminer is a steal at around $55.00. Pinot Noir, as we know can command a
generally higher price than the above styles, by way of the reduction of yields
and greater handling to make a first-class example. Many of our leading Pinot Noirs sit in the
$75.00 to $100.00 range, such as Ata Rangi, Neudorf ‘Moutere Home Block’,
Pegasus Bay ‘Prima Donna’, Amisfield’
Rocky Knoll’, and Gibbston Valley Reserve.
All are highly regarded. But the
jump of an extra 75%? How can that be
justified? Do the ‘Marie Zelie’ and
‘Pinnacle’ deliver that much more?
Another perspective to consider is the global one. In each class, variety and style of wine, it
has long been said and agreed that our New Zealand wines are way
undervalued. New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc
beats Sancerre hands down, and is much lower in price. The recent comparisons of our Hawke’s Bay
wines such as Sacred Hill ‘Helmsman’ and Newton-Forrest ‘Cornerstone’ against
Chateaux Lafite-Rothschild, Mouton-Rothschild and the like see our wines,
costing $50.00 - $70.00 standing without shame alongside wines $1,500.00+, and
seemingly indistinguishable from them!
With Pinot Noir and burgundy, premier cru wines start at over $100.00
and go easily to $250.00 a bottle. Don’t
even ask about grand crus - $500.00+ anyone?
In this light, Martinborough
Vineyard ‘Marie Zelie’ and Peregine ‘Pinnacle’ offer extremely good value,
as long as the quality is at our very best.
Martinborough Vineyard ‘Marie
Zelie’ Pinot Noir 2006
A much anticipated wine, following the inaugural 2003 ‘Marie Zelie’, this
second release is from the exceptional 2006 harvest, one of the best ever in
Martinborough. Marie Zelie Hermance
Frere was the first winemaker in the Wairarapa in the late 19th
century; her great, great niece marrying Derek Milne, one of the founders of
Martinborough Vineyard. The wine was
made by Claire Mulholland (now at
Amisfield) and Paul Mason, being a selection of the four very best barrels of
Pinot Noir wine from the vintage. The
fruit was sourced from three sites, 26 year old 10/5 from the ‘Home Block’, 16
y.o. clone 5 from ‘Duncan’s
Paddock’ and 4 y.o. Abel clone from the ‘Brewery Block’. 20% whole bunch, given a cool
pre-fermentation maceration, native yeast fermentation with a peak temperature
of 33°C, resulted in a wine at 14.0% alc.
The wine was given 10 months maturation in 50% new French oak followed
by a further 8 months in one and two year old oak. Only 984 bottles (82 dozen) were made.
Dark ruby red, almost impenetrable in colour. This like the 2003 ‘Marie
Zelie’, captures the essence of Martinborough, with superbly complex dark plum
and berry aromas, intermixed with savoury, forest floor nuances which unfold
with time in the glass. On palate, the
richness of the fruit is to the fore.
Absolutely mouth-filling, with flavours of dark fruits, game and forest
complexities. The wine has considerable
extract and structure, yet the tannin presence is secondary to the fruit. If anything, it is the freshness and
youthfulness of the wine in the mouth that is remarkable and a feature. This wine is an outstanding expression of
Martinborough Pinot Noir at its best. It
has the ability to develop greater interest over the next decade and more. A superb effort from one of the pioneer
labels of the region.
Peregine ‘Pinnacle’ Central Otago
Pinot Noir 2007
If there has been one wine that has made a statement with its packaging
and livery on release it is the Peregrine ‘Pinnacle’ Pinot Noir. The 2005 vintage came in a very heavy,
dark-coloured, deeply punted bottle with a metal label and clip closure over
Diam cork. Encasing the wine were the
tasting notes cut on a mitre peak shape leaf, and a polished metal cylinder
which housed the total package. Without
any question, the wine measured up to, and surpassed all expectations that the
looks created. The 2007 Central Otago vintage has been recognized as one
producing wines of exhilarating concentration, richness, structure and
quality. Peregrine was duty bound to
produce their second ‘Pinnacle’ in this vintage. The packaging has been improved….. The same
heavy-duty bottle has been used again.
However, the tasting notes are held by a jess, a piece of leather
falconry equipment used in supporting the bird to its handler, bound to the
neck of the bottle. The metal canister
now has a ridge built into the design for increased grip and security,
interlocking the two halves. And the
bottle is now screw-cap sealed. But does
the wine measure up to the marketing?
The answer is a resounding “yes”!
The ruby-red colour shows some lightening from extended barrel
work. On bouquet, one sees that this is
no ‘normal’ Central Otago expression, being
brooding with a complex dusty-earthy, savoury overlay on ripe black and red
berry fruits. It is the palate which
impresses, with its magnificent structure and immense concentration of
fine-grained tannins. One can easily
sense the layers of fruit, oak and site characters interwoven, just waiting to
unfold. Unlike the 2005 which delivered
immediately, the taut 2007 demands 2-3 years bottle-age before opening. There is no doubt this wine will live a
decade and develop a myriad of fascinating flavours. It is reminiscent of a top-flight
Richebourg. The Peregrine ‘Pinnacle’
Pinot Noir 2007 was made from clones 5, 115, 667, 777, with smaller amounts of
Abel, 10/5 and other Dijon variants, from vines
10-15 years old, 75% from the Cromwell
Basin and 25% Gibbston Valley. The fruit was totally destemmed and fermented
with indigenous and inoculated yeasts to a maximum of 34ºC after a cold
soak. The resultant wine, at 14.0% alc.
was aged 11 months in 48% new French oak, with a further 6 months maturation in
a mix of new, one and two year old barrels.
Only 1,000 bottles are available for sale in New Zealand.