By Raymond Chan
Waiheke
Island holds an air of mystery for wine lovers not in proximity. The local Auckland market espouses the
quality of the wines from the Hauraki Gulf vignoble, but unfortunately the limited
production and expensive nature of the wines makes them difficult to access and
appreciate. The reputation for
world-class Bordeaux-style and Chardonnay wines, exciting Syrah and Viognier
and a growing proficiency with a raft of other varietals is undeniable. So it was with a sense of anticipation that
tasters looked at a range of wines from the Obsidian vineyard, presented by
winemaker Michael Wood. Established in
1993, the small 9 ha Onetangi Valley operation which processes 40 tonnes of
fruit for just under 3,500 cases of wine annually is owned by a syndicate led
by Auckland businessman Lindsay Spilman.
The aim is the best possible Bordeaux-styled wine possible, but interest
in and success with other styles has led to 10 different labels being
bottled. Obsidian seems to be growing in
its reputation, far beyond its size, and the quality and style upwards more so
than is realised. There are a number of
highly recognised producers on Waiheke Island.
On tasting the range, Obsidian definitely deserves to sit with
them. Here are my notes on the wines
tasted:
Flight One: Chardonnay
A variety
that has been seen as well-suited to Waiheke Island from the first wines
made. The Obsidian wines are based on
Clone 95 with some 15, given batonnage, but do not undergo MLF. First up was the Obsidian Chardonnay 2007 (18.5-/20), at 14.5% alc, aged 9 months in
30% new oak, bright light golden straw in colour, this had a full, powerful
nose, mealy, nutty and well-backed by oak.
Full-bodied with ripe stonefruit flavours and proportionate oak, this
was rich and lively from excellent acidity.
This will keep well another 3-4+ years easily. The Obsidian
Chardonnay 2009 (17.5+/20), at 14.0% alc, 30% indigenous yeast fermented
and aged 10 months in 25% new oak, was pale straw yellow in colour and very
aromatic on bouquet, the esters of fermentation still showing over the
floral-spice of fruit and oak. Youthful
peach flavours came through with some alcohol heat on palate. Medium bodied with balanced oak and soft
acidity, this was quite approachable by way of its elegance. This needs a year to settle down, then drink
over 3-4 years.
Flight Two: Syrah
There were
two pairs of Syrah wines shown, first under the ‘Weeping Sands’ label, the
second two under the premium Obsidian nomenclature. This varietal has proven to be a top performer
on the Island and these four wines demonstrated Michael’s work and progress
with the style he is aiming for. The Obsidian ‘Weeping Sands’ Syrah 2006
(17.5/20), at 14.0% alc was the first crop off 2002 top-grafted vines
originally planted 17 years ago, 12 months in 40% new oak, some US oak. Very deep, dark purple hued ruby red, this
had a powerful nose of blackcurrants and oak spice, the fruit showing some
coolness. On palate, powerfully constructed
with density and lusciousness, the black fruits a little sappy though well
matched by distinctive oakiness. Acidity
is prominent. This will keep another 5-7
years easily. This was followed by the Obsidian ‘Weeping Sands’ Syrah 2009
(18.5/20), at 14.0% alc, co-fermented with 2.5% Viognier, 9 months in oak, some
new French barrels. Brilliant purple red
in colour, this had a very fragrant nose of florals, white pepper and spices,
very finely expressed. On palate a
supple and elegant wine with juicy lusciousness of fruit, fine-grained
extraction, soft acid and textures. The
velvety mouthfeel was Pinot Noir-esque!
The next pair
was led by the Obsidian Syrah 2008 (19.0-/20)
at 14.0% alc, was 100% Syrah, aged 14 months in 25% new French oak. Dark deep, youthful purple-red in colour,
this was still tight, taut and reserved on bouquet. The fruit was of superb ripeness, dark yet
with violet overtones, and good spicy lift.
A concentrated and powerful wine, this was still shy in expression, but
the depth of ripe dark fruits impressed.
This seriously structured wine needs time to open out, and will live 10
years plus. A brooding wine from a great
vintage on Waiheke Island. Next was the Obsidian Syrah 2009 (18.0+/20), at 14.5%
alc, co-fermented with 2.5% Viognier, aged 10 months in 40% new French oak. Deep purple-ruby red in colour, this had a
beautifully fragrant, floral lifted nose, Viognier-influenced, quite exotic and
with elegant dark fruit expression. Medium-full
in body, the florals and dark fruits combined well, with spices and pepper
showing. Very fine-grained, but with
considerable extraction for excellent structure, a touch of alcohol warmth
noticeable. The suppleness will allow
approachability for drinking over 6-9 years.
120 cases made.
Flight Three: Montepulciano
This Italian
varietal figured in the original plantings of 1993. Ripeness from long hang time is required and
Michael’s opinion is that the yield should be around 3.5 kg per vine for
quality. Approx. 400-600 cases produced
annually. The Obsidian ‘Weeping Sands’ Montepulciano 2007 (17.0-/20), at 14.0%
alc, aged 9 months in 30% new oak, was very dark, deep, black-hued red in
colour, the nose showing black fruits, secondary meat and game elements and a
little brett, all somewhat tight and restrained. Firm, dry and tight on palate, this had
savoury dark fruits, dried herbs with coffee notes, the oak adding some
spice. A little on the austere side, but
showing complexity of flavour now. Drinking
now. Next was the Obsidian ‘Weeping Sands’ Montepulciano 2009 (18.5-/20), at 14.85%
alc, aged 10 months in 20% new oak, brilliant, translucent ruby red with purple
hues to the colour, this had a beautifully aromatic, soft red berry nose, a
little fresh ferment-esters and raspberry-drop confection showing. Wonderfully supple on palate, this was packed
with plump, juicy red berry flavours with a subtle game note adding
interest. The sweetness was enhanced by
the lively acidity, and the alcoholic end note just adding warmth to the
mouthfeel. This will drink well over 4-6
years.
Flight Four: The Bordeaux Blends
Four wines,
based on Cabernet Sauvignon, Me