Olive Café, 170 Cuba Street, Tel: 802-5266
Without
any doubt, Cuba Street remains one of Wellington’s most characterful ‘quarters’
with its amazingly intriguing and outrageously delightful mix of people,
businesses and shop frontages. It is a conglomeration
of trendy and kitsch, crass and class that is a result of the meeting of
different cultures, lifestyle and necessity.
Here Italian fishmongers meld with quilters, architecture students,
whizz-bang lawyers, trinket merchants, Asian takeaway families and the
occasional emo…..and it all works in an exciting Bohemian way, such that Cuba
Street has become something of a tourist destination for visitors and
Wellingtonians alike.
Approaching
fifteen years of operation, the Olive Café is one of the most well-established
of eateries in Cuba Street
and it captures the essence of life there.
It too is a strange and eye-opening mix of style and fad. Simple, original and sturdy, the fittings and
furniture are down-to earth and honest, and show they are meant to be used. Bright, floral, retro vinyl table ‘cloths’
cover some tables and the dainty French water glasses hark back to the
1960s. Regularly changing (and selling)
works from emerging artists adorn the walls and contribute to the feel that you
are in a buzzy, ‘happening’ place.
Don’t
let this image fool you. Olive Café’s
owners, Julie Hansen who looks after
the engine room, and Karen Krogh who oversees the front of house, are extremely
serious about food, wine and coffee. Julie
is an extremely knowledgeable foodie who’s questioning mind and constant quest
for quality sees her search for the best produce, ingredients and supplies
available. The freshest fish, the best
cuts of meat, free-range of course, the finest fruit and vegetables of the
moment, biodynamic by preference, organic by choice. Julie’s respect for the environment and
desire to work with the best means she is often paying significantly more for
her goods. A ‘seat of her pants’ cook,
Julie aims to provide honest, healthy and quality food that is not overworked,
over presented, nor overly ornate. And
she does.
The classical
menu with a Mediterranean edge shows her skill in designing dishes that are
just-right in simplicity, flavour and balance.
All the bases are covered. Start
with a taste plate of dips and olives with grilled bread or baba ghanoush and
marinated feta. In the mains, a
favourite is the ricotta and parmesan gnocchi, perfectly textured, and it picks
up the creamy tomato and pesto sauce so well.
The tarakihi, just-cooked moist and the subtle flavours, fresh and
redolent of the sea, offset by the cut of the salad of potato, green beans,
zucchini, broad beans, dill, capers and lemon aioli. Char-grilled lamb cutlets served with hummus
and a Greek salad – sheer simplicity that delivers traditional fare with
interest. There’s a dessert for
everyone, from an orange roasted rhubarb and boysenberry fool, panna cotta with
caramel and pears poached in honey and wine to the soft centered chocolate
pudding. The mains range from $16.00 to
$27.00 and desserts under $15.00
The
love of wine is shared by Karen and Julie and the list reflects what they like
personally. Like the menu, the wine list
ranges widely in style; among the whites from Dibon Cava to Louis Roederer Champagne, Mt Beautiful
Sauvignon Blanc 2008 to Marc Bredif Vouvray 1988, and Millton ‘Riverpoint’
Viognier 2008 to Craggy Range Gimblett Gravels Chardonnay 2008. The reds are just as diverse, from Mount
Edward Pinot Noir 2007 (in 375 ml!) to Escarpment ‘Voyager’ Pinot Noir 2006,
Terrace Edge Waipara Syrah 2008 and Yalumba ‘Hand-Picked’
Tempranillo/Grenache/Viognier 2005. Good
glass pours make it easy to choose something ideal in the wine stakes. (If you want to open a special bottle, do it
on BYO Monday.) Emerson’s (because the Pilsner
is organic, of course), Coopers, Tuatara are features among the beers and
quality juices such as ‘Daily Squeeze’ orange and Hardie Boys ginger beer are
supplemented by organic choices including Phoenix and Chantal. Antipodes
water completes the refreshments. Like
the food, the pricing of all the drinks is on the very good value side.
Julie
is very particular with her coffee and has long been a supporter of Supreme;
and the staff are extremely competent in barista skills. The coffee never disappoints at Olive,
whether you call in for breakfast, lunch or dinner.
It’s
great sitting by the window, watching the Cuba Street colour…
- Raymond Chan