Ortega Fish Shack And Bar - Restaurant Review By Stephen Clarke

The Ortega Fish Shack and Bar is a new and vibrant eatery on Majoribanks Street at the previous Café Bastille site. Majoribanks has had a history of well-known and respected establishments and I can say that Ortego will only add to the reputation. Davey McDonald and Anna Limacher (daughter of Mark Limacher, of Roxburgh Bistro fame) recently took over the site and have refurbished it with the input of designer Libby Bettie, Alan Bulleyment Architect and Bullet-proof Construction. The refit has resulted in an “eclectic, funky beach feel”, with shades of the San Francisco waterfront of yesteryear, and this, in the heart of Wellington city! The attention to detail is superb and subtle, from the wave-like flow of the wooden slat ceiling above the dining space which cleverly references the sea and the pastel sandstone tiles which recall warm beach resorts.

I suggest when you enter Ortega that you make your way to the inner bar to check out the beverage selections. With 80 wines on the card, there is something for everyone. The beer list must be one of the most comprehensive in Wellington, and its layout is structured as a wine list, progressively grouping styles to suit the flow of the meal. I have not seen this done in a restaurant beverage list before. So naturally, a nice cleansing Founders Tall Blonde went down a treat as an aperitif for me.

While deciding the wine choice for the evening, the Ortega staff were very welcoming and attentive to our questions. The friendly focus by the staff is, in my opinion, a big plus in our dining culture. I don’t feel there is a need for the formality of “starred” fine dining. However we all want the feeling of being looked after well. And this is exactly where the team of Ortega are - as sparkling as the glasses they serve the beer and wine in! It is the small touches, such as keeping the water topped up, waiting for the last person to finish their courses before clearing, and at the end of the night assisting with putting on jackets and coats, that make the difference.

We decided on Champalou Vouvray 2007. We thought it should be ideal for Ortega’s food, as the wine is rich in texture and mouthfeel, yet sutble and understated in flavour with light, crisp, apple, citrus and quince notes. The style of the food with classical French influence, allows this refreshing Vouvray to show its stripes holding up to the richer dishes and still releasing its long, clean finish. The wine shows all the class of a top Chenin Blanc from the Loire and it was to prove an ideal accompaniment to the dishes we were to choose.

When my party was seated at the table, we found we were lucky enough to have proprietor Anna Limacher looking after us and she proceeded to guide us through what was to be a fantastic evening. I am a firm believer in letting the waiter guide you, as they know the menu highlights! My entrée was the scallops on linguine, pastis butter and braised fennel. It was fantastic, cooked and seasoned perfectly! The Rick Stein quote at the bottom of the menu “The simplest dishes are often the most profound” was appropriate. The other members of my party were equally impressed. The squid and Lisbon pork sausage on sweet potato and saffron mayo was a superbly balanced dish with both the seafood and meat complementary. The textures of the dish were a feature.

The main courses continued the quality. The snapper on ratatouille and crayfish butter was a very well composed dish, where the ratatouille supported the dish and allowed the snapper to be the highlight. The tuna Nicoise and roast salmon dish were equally as divine. The signatures of the chefs, Mark Limacher and Peter Collins came through, reflecting some of the original Café Bastille style which won them “Cuisine Restaurant of the Year” in 2005. There are a number of their classics such as the crayfish and café de Paris butters, and Roxburgh retro chocolate mousse. These, in addition to what will be new highlights, such as the sensational seafood platter, with diverse items ranging from traditional French to Japanese and Pacific.

For dessert, the saffron posset and strawberries will appeal to all, but Mark Limacher is a master of the sweet, and I’m sure the other desserts are just as delectable. I particularly enjoyed the cheese board, served in a manner that is rarely seen in New Zealand. The board was presented to us, with detailed descriptions by Anna. We then selected the cheeses by quantity, which were to be charged by weight. I will admit I had visions of my employer, who was footing the bill, being very worried, as cheese is a passion of mine! But in the final analysis, it was extremely reasonable. Having worked with Kaimai and Kapiti Cheese companies for many years, Peter Collins’ input in the cheese board has ensured its success.

There was an expectation that this restaurant should impress and it did and much more! With their private dinning room available and set menu option, Ortega will get my vote for our Christmas function.

- Stephen Clarke