By Raymond Chan
One of the pioneers, vineyards being planted in 1985, and largest producers in the Martinborough region, Palliser Estate also has some of the finest and best value wines. With Allan Johnson at the winemaking and viticultural helm since 1991, Palliser's consistency has been nothing short of remarkable, and the wines are always on the improve. An excellent tasting was conducted at Regional Wines with Allan, as he showed the new and current release wines from Palliser Estate, as well as a six vintage vertical of the Riesling, from 2000 to 2007. Here are my notes on the wines tasted:
Introduction
The small production of a Methode Traditionelle wine is never easy. At 500 cases, a significant commitment to the style in all forms of resource is required to have any semblance of top quality. The Palliser Estate Methode Traditionelle 2005 (18.0+/20) is 60% PN, 40% Ch, with 12.5% alc and 8 g/l rs, spending 30 months on lees. Very soft, open and even on nose and palate, this had excellent autolysis and Pinot Noir depth. Fine textures, wonderful balance a degree of finesse, without immense concentration made this very accessible.
Riesling 2000- 2007
From vines planted between 1987 and 1992, the label averaging 12.5% alc and carrying 6-7 g/l rs, Allan is happy to allow a small amount of botrytis in the pick. The wines were served from old to young. Interestingly, the odd vintages were low yield years.
First was the Palliser Estate Riesling 2000 (18.0/20) at 13.5% alc. Light golden yellow, this was full and broad with limes, toast, beeswax and custard-like creamy textures as in old German styles. A touch of drying and a little alcohol warmth, but this is glorious. It was the second preferred of the Riesling wines for the group of tasters. Next came the Palliser Estate Riesling 2001 (17.0-/20) at 12.0% alc. It showed some toasty development with lime juice, and some European-like sulphide complexity and reduction. Not as luscious as the other wines. The Palliser Estate Riesling 2003 (18.5-/20) at 13.5% alc was light straw yellow and some golden hues, very fine and balanced on nose and its off-dry palate. Lovely richness, yet with good restraint from the acidity, limes with some tasty interest, and a long finish. The Palliser Estate Riesling 2005 (17.5+/20) at 12.0% alc. was pale hued in colour and shy with its floral and lime expression. Coolish, tight and a little acidic, this had less volume and weight. It was the least preferred of the Riesling flight for the group of tasters. The Palliser Estate Riesling 2006 ( 19.0/20) at 12.5% alc has been a multi trophy and gold medal winner. A touch of less than bright colour suggested skin contact to me. Very elegant, this was extremely nuanced with limes, florals and beautiful blossoms and the palate was unsurpassed with its vibrancy and liveliness. Wonderfully balanced and with great length. The most preferred wine of the flight for the tasters was the Palliser Estate Riesling 2007 (19.0-/20) at 12.0% alc. Pale in colour, the purity of fruit was its feature. Gorgeous lime juice flvours with excellent concentration, depth and length. This will cellar well for up to a decade.
The Current Release Wines
The Palliser Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (18.5+/20) at 13.5% alc, was yet another Palliser Estate classic rendering of this variety. Very pale coloured, this was fresh and pungent with tropical fruits, sweat, a steely edge and a touch of nettles and minerals. Crisp, fresh and with good weight and depth. This will keep well over the next year or two. Another benchmark example of its variety was the Palliser Estate Pinot Gris 2007 (18.0/20) at 13.5% alc, 7 g/l rs. Pale straw, this had tight pear and stonefruit flavours with just a little spice. Well-textured and weighty, this had the essential lift of aromatics to give it some class. A little alcohol warmth came through.
Then on to the fuller-bodied wines, led by the Palliser Estate Chardonnay 2007 (18.5-/20) at 13.5% alc. This was all WBP and BF with 40% wild yeasts and aged 9 months in barrel, with approx. 20% MLF. Light straw yellow with a little golden hue, this was elegant, modern Chardonnay with stonefruit, melon and peach aromas and flavours that had toasty, mealy nuances layered into the wine. Initially a touch oaky, the fruit emerged to more than match the oak. Tight, with fine textures and excellent balance. The Palliser Estate Pinot Noir 2007 (18.0+/20) at 13.5% alc, made from 10/5 and clones 115, 667 and 777, given 12 months in barrel, was bright ruby red in colour as well as fruit expression. Good red fruit characters with cherries and berries, there was an element of complex herbal notes. Well extracted and fullish bodied, the crispness and freshness from the acidity was a feature of the wine that will enable it to cellar well, say 6-8 years plus.
A Sweet Finish
A lovely finish was seen in the Palliser Estate Noble Riesling 2008 (18.0-/20) at 9.0% alc and 140 g/l rs. The product of three picks with the fruit showing 60-70% botrytis infection, this was youthfully coloured and had an excellent balance of expression of both floral and blossom varietal fruit and honey and marmalade botrytis. Medium sweet in style, the richness was kept in check with the crisp acidity. Fine-textured, steely and with minerals on palate, this finished without any cloying.