By Raymond Chan
To promote the Penfolds wines is an usual decision for a small, independent wine retailer in these times when supermarkets sell the whole range, and often at discount prices. However, the range of wines is too significant to ignore and the supermarkets sell their limited amount of stock priced on discount quickly before seeing the wine return to full pricing. It is then that Regional has a tasting of the wines. And surprisingly to some people, our pricing is not too dissimilar to what was offered by the big firms earlier. And most importantly, the wines are properly presented in a tutored tasting.
As an aside, it was an eye-opening experience to attend the Penfolds Re-corking Clinic, held for the first time in Wellington a month after this tasting. It proved immensely popular with the attendees. Those dubious of the procedures were given a satisfactory explanation of what it all involved and this alleviated much of the concern, especially with the topping up of the current but different vintage of the same wine. Essentially with a 50 ml top up, it equates to a 6.67% portion of a 750 ml bottle. In these days where wines can accept up to 15% of blended material, whether of different variety or region, this is well within limits!
This year’s release was unusual in that it had the current 2005 Bin wines as well as some 2006 wines. We added last year’s Grange and also a very limited edition Block wine to make the tasting quite an event. Here are my notes on the wines:
Flight One: The 2006 Vintage Wines
A foretaste of wines to come next year, with this early release of some of the Bin wines. The Penfolds ‘Koonunga Hill’ Shiraz/Cabernet 2006 (17.5+/20) is as decent an Aussie red could ever be, and a caricature of Penfolds if there ever was one. Dark and youthful ruby red colour, this had ripe plum and berry aromas and flavours with a touch of spice and earth. Good, supple tannins right through the palate gave excellent grip and length. The Penfolds ‘Bin 138’ GSM ‘Old Vine’ 2006 (18.0/20) was also youthfully black hued with loads of dark raspberry fruit aromas and flavours from the 39% Grenache. Shiraz makes up 32% and Mourvedre the other 29%. Juicy, jammy and plush on the palate, this was ripe and sweet. The 2006 fruit is lovely and bright, as was evident in the Penfolds ‘Bin 128’ Coonawarra Shiraz 2006 (18.5/20). Also purple hued, this had lovely floral perfumes, great concentration, finesse and depth, with excellent freshness from the acidity. This was classic cool-climate Aussie Shiraz from a great year.
Flight Two: The 2005 Bin Wines
As is the custom, the four well-known Bin wines were served blind, with the order mixed, to provide a challenge for tasters to try to identify them. Preferences were also noted. The observation that the 2005 vintage, while attractive and typical, did not possess the same ripeness and depth of clarity in fruit as 2006. First was the Penfolds ‘Bin 407’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (18.5/20). Black hued with classical blackcurrant Cabernet Sauvignon aromas and flavours, this was ripe and dense with great tannin expression and fresh acidity. A wonderful varietal wine with all its components in harmony. This was singing and the most preferred wine of the flight for the group of tasters. The Penfolds ‘Bin 389’ Cabernet/Shiraz 2005 (19.0-/20) came next. Beautiful spices pervaded the nose, the fruit ripe, rich and intense. This was elegant and balanced with lovely fine-grained tannins. The sweetly ripe plum and liquorice-like fruit was enhanced by the vanilla and spice of the American oak. This was a star wine, but preferred second of the flight by the group. The Penfolds ‘Bin 28 Kalimna’ Shiraz 2005 (17.0/20) was shy in expression, though with well-ripened black peppery fruit and subtle oak notes. The firm tannins showed up and will help the wine age well. Second least preferred of the four Bin wines. Bringing up the end was the Penfolds ‘Bin 128’ Coonawarra Shiraz 2005 (18.0-/20). A little smaller scaled, this was typically cooler in expression with pepper and floral characters. Gentle, elegant, balanced and attractively supple and quite subtle too. However, the least preferred of the flight for the tasters attending.
Flight Three: Contrasting Shiraz Wines
Always an interesting comparison between the traditional non-oak influenced, ‘old fashioned?’ ‘St Henri’ and the ultra modern ‘RWT’. This pairing demonstrated the ability of Penfolds to lead in developing new wines, as well as their desire to retain the best of history. The Penfolds ‘St Henri’ Shiraz 2004 (18.5+/20) was soft, full, dense and earthy with its savoury black fruit. Supple, restrained and deliciously harmonious, the black olive and black berry fruits show no interference from oak, slightly dumbing the wine down a little, but gave it a sense of purity. Excellent depth and concentration and plenty of structure for a decade of aging easily. The Penfolds ‘RWT’ Shiraz 2005 (19.0-/20), totally Barossa Valley fruit given 14 months in 70% new French oak was far more elegant.and opulent with spicy, shiny, luscious fruit and oak flavours. Very modern, but with huge extraction, all very supple, of course! Very fine and long on the finish.
Flight Four: Cabernet Sauvignon Wines
A pair of wines at the top of the Penfolds hierarchy. ‘Bin 707’ is billed as the Cabernet Sauvignon equivalent to ‘Grange’, and the ‘Block 42 Kalimna’ a rare release of superlative quality. The
Penfolds ‘Bin 707’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (18.5+/20) was impenetrable in colour, with great intensity and depth of beautiful cassis flavours lifted by oak and a little volatility. The fruit richness and sweetness was indeed carried by the oak at this stag and the structure and extract dominating the palate. Nevertheless a magnificent wine of majestic proportion that will age a decade and a half without reservation. It was a privilege o taste the
Penfolds ‘Block 42 Kalimna’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 (20.0/20) made from the oldest Cabernet Sauvignon vines in the world, at 130 years. Planted in the famous Kalimna vineyard, this wine was a massive block of vinous substance, pure fruit, absorbing 13 months on new oak. The blackcurrant, olive tapenade, menthol and cassis flavours saturated the palate, but with amazing fineness. The huge extract was swallowed up by the richness of the fruit. An immense wine that will be legendary.
Flight Five: ‘Grange’
It was nearly an anti-climax to have the two ‘Grange’ wines after the ‘Block 42’. But Penfold’s top wine (at least ‘commercially’ available) shone through. The Penfolds ‘Grange’ 2003 (19.0-/20) (97% Shiraz, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, from Barossa, Coonawarra, McLaren Vale and Magill, 15 months in new US oak hogsheads) was dense and amazingly concentrated as expected. Great pepper and plum fruit flavours lifted by beautifully sweet and spicy oak, this was a concentrated, firm and tannic ‘Grange’ that is showing plenty of its breed already. The Penfolds ‘Grange’ 2002 (19.5+/20) (99% Shiraz, 1% Cabernet Sa