By Raymond Chan
Being part of the Fosters liquor conglomerate
has seen Penfolds fare relatively well compared to some of the other wine brands
under the same umbrella. The historical
significance and undeniable quality of the wines, availability of vineyard
resource, as well as the dedication and loyalty of the Penfolds personnel must
have mattered, as the Penfolds wines continue the path that Dr Christopher
Rawson Penfold initiated in 1844, and that was consolidated in the 1950s and
1960s. Multi-vineyard and multi-regional
blending to maintain wine styles and a house style; the influence of maturation
in 300 L American oak hogsheads and proper bottle-aging to tame the robustness
of the wines, remain the tenets of Penfolds philosophy.
At Regional Wines,
we are still staunch supporters of the Penfolds wines, despite the approach of
supermarkets who wish to capitalise on the quality of the wines, without
respecting the integrity of the name and brand.
We are not into heavy discounting to move the wines from the shelves,
and usually wait until the ‘dust has settled’, when the stocks in the FMCG
arena have dwindled, before we begin our promotion of the wines. Thus, this tasting of Penfolds ‘Grange’,
fellow Icon wines and the new Bin wines was conducted in August, rather than
May. To make the tasting a special one,
a three vintage vertical of ‘Grange’ was incorporated into the tasting. Following are my notes on the wines tasted:
Flight
One: The 2009 and 2008 Bin Wines
A trio of new wines, both vintages involving
heatwaves. In 2009, if the fruit was
picked too early, the wines were lighter.
Quality came to those who waited.
In 2008, one needed to pick before the heatwave for best quality. The Penfolds
‘Bin 23’ Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2009 (17.0+/20), at 14.0% alc, fruit
from the Adelaide Hills, aged 9 months in 36% new French barriques, was deep,
youthful ruby red in colour and full, solid and dense on bouquet. Black plummy fruits, spices, oak, savoury
truffle notes and some tamarillo came through on nose and palate. This was a densely structured and powerful
expression of Pinot Noir. Next was the Penfolds ‘Bin 138’ Barossa
Shiraz/Mourvedre/Grenache 2008 (18.5+/20), at 14.5% alc, 42% Shiraz, 30%
Mourvedre and 28% Grenache, old vines, matured 15 months in old American
oak. Saturated black red colour, this
had a beautifully fragrant, aromatic raspberry and black fruited nose, sweetly
ripe, lusciously juicy and elegant on palate.
Tannins are supple and restrained, but the fruit exuberance and balance
will enable 6-8 years aging. Next was
the Penfolds ‘Bin 128 – Coonawarra’
Shiraz 2008 (19.0/20), at 14.5% alc, fruit from Coonawarra, aged in new and
seasoned French oak. Almost impenetrable
black red in colour, this was very fine, tight and concentrated on nose and
palate. Superb dark berry fruits,
florals, white and black pepper and spices all showing with finesse, intensity
and restraint. The tannin structure was
exceptional fine and intense. A wine
that will develop over the next 10-15 years.
A classic and one of the best ‘Bin 128’ wines to date?
Flight
Two: The 2007 Bin Wines
Three wines from the drought-stricken 2007
vintage which resulted in accelerated growth, requiring early picking. The wines seem earlier drinking styles, not
quite as sweetly fruited as the previous flight. All three tasted seemed shy and angular, or
small scale on initial appearance, but air-time saw the wines open up
impressively. First was the Penfolds ‘Bin 28 – Kalimna’ Shiraz 2007
(17.5+/20), at 14.5% alc, South Australian fruit blend, aged 12 months in
American oak, 16% large format. Dark,
deep, purple-hued ruby colour, this had a robust and brackish nose with firm
black fruits, pepper and spices, a little unyielding at first. On palate, full-bodied and firm, the grip and
structure quite prominent, giving a solid and dense wine. Ripe black fruits and pepper evolving into
sweetness with eucalypt and floral nuances with air time. This is a little raw at present, but should
develop well over the next 6-8 years.
The Penfolds ‘Bin 407’ Cabernet
Sauvignon 2007 (18.0-/20), at 14.0% alc, fruit from Coonawarra, McLaren
Vale, and Langhorne Creek and other South Australian regions, aged 13 months in
33% new French and American oak hogsheads, was impenetrable purple-hued black
red. The nose was shy at first, but
there was a solid, dense blackcurrant and cassis core, some pepper and sweet
lift. On palate, this was tight, dense
and linear, a wine with fine-textured substance, the fruit with a soft,
mattiness, though the acidity level was excellent. A wine with varietal blackcurranty drive and
line that will keep well for 8-10 years.
Third was the Penfolds ‘Bin 389’
Cabernet/Shiraz 2007 (18.5-/20), at 14.5% alc, a blend of 54% Cabernet
Sauvignon and 46% Shiraz, fruit from Coonawarra, McLaren Vale,, Langhorne
Creek, Padthaway and Barossa, aged 12 months in 39% new American oak hogsheads.
Brilliant, limpid, purple-red in colour, this had a lovely, elegant and
harmonious nose of black fruits, spices and liquorice with beautifully
integrated French oak lift. The palate
also possessed balance and excellent integration of componentry, the Cabernet
Sauvignon refined in its extraction and the sweetness and juiciness of the Shiraz all quite
seductive. Attractive now for its
suppleness, this will still keep another 10 years easily.
Flight
Three: The Icon Wines
A group of wines that are regarded as high in
quality as ‘Grange’ is, but with very individual and different
expressions. First was the very
‘traditional’, old-fashion styled wine developed by John Davoren, concurrently
as ‘Grange’ was by Max Schubert. The Penfolds ‘St Henri’ Shiraz 2006
(18.5-/20), at 14.5% alc, 89% Shiraz and 11% Cabernet Sauvignon from the
Barossa, McLaren Vale and Robe regions, aged 15 months in 50+ y.o. 1460 L
vats. Very dark, bright black-ruby red
in colour, this was softly full and vibrant on nose with dense, sweet, dark
berry fruits along with subtle mint and pepper nuances. On palate, this was elegantly concentrated
with red and black fruit flavours, subtle spice and floral elements. Somewhat shut-down at present, the underlying
ripeness, fresh sweetness and concentration point to excellent potential. Track record suggests 20+ years
possible. Next was the single-region
representation of modern super-premium Shiraz
aged in new French oak. The Penfolds ‘RWT’ Shiraz 2005 (19.5-/20),
at 14.5% alc, 100% Shiraz from the Barossa, aged 14 months in 70% new and 30%
one y.o. French oak hogsheads. Bright,
dark-purple red in colour, this was exceptionally fine featured on the nose
with sweet dark fruits, oak spices, floral and pepper nuances, al