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Wine Review

Peregrine Wines With Verticals Of Rastasburn Riesling & Pinot Noir

By Raymond Chan
In the short time of a decade, Peregrine Wines has become a major force in Central Otago wine. Greg Hay has been the driving force behind this winery, based in the Gibbston Valley, but sourcing its fruit from Gibbston and Cromwell. The principle of sourcing fruit from different districts is one of security and insurance to allow high quality wines made consistently through varying vintage conditions. However, with Peregrine, it is noteworthy that it has been only from 2003 that the wines were made on-site. And also a number of winemakers involved. In 2001 and 2002, Rudi Bauer made the wines. In 2003, Michelle Richardson, and from 2004, Peter Bartle. It was therefore a great opportunity of looking at the new release wines as well as a retrospective vertical of the Rastasburn Riesling and the premium Pinot Noir wine with Greg and winemaker Peter Bartle. Following are my notes on the wines tasted:

Flight One: Current Release White Wines


Greg was to have brought the 2007 release of this wine but we had the Peregrine Riesling 2006 (17.5+/20) made from Cromwell Basin and Bendigo fruit, dry at 5.5 g/l rs and 12.5% alc. This was still pale with gentle toasty development characters on a firm and tight, almost austere palate. A wine with weight, body and presence, with more cellaring ahead. Next was the new Peregrine Pinot Gris 2008 (18.0+/20) made from approx. equal proportions of Gibbston and Cromwell fruit. The wine, at 14.0% alc and 5 g/l rs was youthfully steely and minerally on nose, but showed classic pear and stonefruit flavours with excellent concentration on the palate. The wine was obviously fresh with esters lift and crisp acidity. The Peregrine Chardonnay 2007 (18.0/20) had a more complex make-up, the fruit from three sites and three clones, WBP, with a warm ferment up to 25ºC with solids, and aged in 45% new oak, incorporating puncheons. 100% MLF Light golden straw coloured, this was imbued with mineral and nutty flavours on a high acid, steely palate and attractive toasty oak nuances. The Peregrine Gewurztraminer 2008 (17.5+/20) was a crowd pleaser. At 14.0% alc and 8.5 g/l rs, this had a beauty from its florals and rose water flavours on its delicate palate. Wonderfully perfumed, though a little heat came through, its intensity was a feature.

Flight Two: Rastasburn Riesling 2004 – 2007


A work in progress for Peter Bartle as he aims for better balance of all the componentry. Medium in style. The Peregrine ‘Rastasburn’ Riesling 2004 (16.5+/20), made by Michelle Richardson at 16 g/l rs and 7.4 g/l TA was a fullish, broadish wine, somewhat disjointed, but with toasty, kero development notes and somewhat sour and harder than preferred on palate. The Peregrine ‘Rastasburn’ Riesling 2005 (17.5+/20) at 13.0% alc, 15 g/l rs and 8.4 g/l TA, from a low yield year had attractive lime and lemon fruit allied with honey and toast characters. Coming across dryish, the tightness and depth gave an austerity in the Australian style. The Peregrine ‘Rastasburn’ Riesling 2006 (18.0-/20) at 12.0% alc, 17 g/l rs and 6.6 g/l TA was still quite pale and youthful. This had a steel and mineral aspect to the pure limes and florals. Overall a little lighter and looser, more open and approachable. The Peregrine ‘Rastasburn’ Riesling 2007 (18.5/20) was the most preferred by the group. With 13.0% alc, 20 g/l rs and 7.8 g.l TA, this had superb lime zest and florals with minerally notes. Lifted, with a lovely harmony and balance of florals, sweetness and acidity, it was the concentration of fruit that was the highlight.

Flight Three: Pinot Noir 2001 – 2007


The feature of the tasting for many attendees, and a rare opportunity to see the progression of the label over seven vintages. The Peregrine Pinot Noir is a blend of Gibbston fruit with Cromwell fruit incorporated from 2002. Five clones are used, from all the sites from which fruit is drawn. Rudi Bauer made the 2001 and 2002, Michelle Richardson the 2003 and Peter Bartle from 2004. The 2001 was sealed with cork. The 2002 was bottle evenly with cork and screwcap, and from 2003, the total Pinot production went under screwcap closure. The wines were served from old to young.

First was the Peregrine Pinot Noir 2001 (18.0-/20) all Gibbston fruit, from a very warm year with healthy crops. This was attractively aromatic with forest-floor secondary aromas and flavours, soft and full in body and with good tannin and acid balance. Drinking well now, mature, but no hurry. Made from70% Gibbston fruit and 30% Cromwell, from a warm year where small bunches and berries prevailed, the Peregrine Pinot Noir 2002 (18.5+/20) was full, dense, ripe and concentrated. Secondary savoury aromas and flavours were expressed on a full-bodied palate with weight and density. Quite complete, with plenty of extract and surprisingly with good acidity to handle more time. The Peregrine Pinot Noir 2003 (18.0+/20) was 70% Cromwell and 30% Gibbston fruit from a vintage with higher crop levels. Lighter garnet colour, this had a steely, minerally fruit expression, still quite primary. Lovely cherry-berry and cherry liqueur characters on a palatewith plenty of acidity. Not quite the matching fruit richness here. 2004 was a nightmare vintage with frosts, poor flowering and low crops. The Peregrine Pinot Noir 2004 (18.0+/20) was sourced totally from Cromwell fruit. A little lighter in colour and on the nose, this showed truffle-like development on a full bodied palate with good tannin grip. Everything in good proportion and well-structured, but not quite the nuance – a result of less variation from reduced vineyard source and blending options. The Peregrine Pinot Noir 2005 (19.5-/20) was 100% Cromwell fruit from a small berry year. Youthful in colour, this had a lovely fragrant nose of florals, cherries, berries and thyme herb. Still very primary, fresh and wonderfully ripe, this was enhanced by savoury and spicy notes. Great weight, body and texture, this is ageworthy. 2006 was a ‘balanced’ vintage and the Peregrine Pinot Noir 2006 (18.0-/20) is an equal blend of Gibbston and Cromwell fruit. Lighter, youthful hues, this featured bright raspberry fruit that was pretty and up-front. A touch on the skinnier side compared with other vintages, but with lovely floral expression and really an elegance. The Peregrine Pinot Noir 2007 (19.0-/20) was from a higher crop vintage, employing 80% Cromwell fruit and 20% Gibbston. Purple and youthful, this has concentrated fresh cherry-berry fruit, wonderfully bright, with all the structure and freshness for aging in an elegant style. Greg Hay thought it like the 2001.

A fascinating flight of Pinot Noir, with the consistency of quality and richness a feature. The blending of regions has enabled this consistency, which comes through clearly, in the context of several vertical tastings of Pinot Noir conducted recently.
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