It was a
wonderful opportunity to explore the concept of regionality with the Pinot Noir
variety in this country at a Pinot Noir Masterclass conducted by several
principals and winemakers for the Negociants NZ Ltd wine distribution company
as part of their ‘Friends at Home’ roadshow yesterday. The Masterclass was moderated by Clive Jones
of Nautilus Estate, with Luc Cowley, Frank Manifold , Olly Masters and Nick
Mills as panel members. Most wine growers
and producers, including the panel members, are aware of how the same grape variety
performs differently, often subtly so, when grown in different locations. However to express the regional character in
a finished wine is not easy, as the influences of winemaker and vintage can
blur this. It was noted that by careful
observation over a number of vintages, say a decade or more, can enable the
recognition of such characteristics.
Most winegrowers and makers are very cautious in saying they can
identify and express regionality in their wines. However, the wine lover and consumer is far
more willing to make a leap of faith and believe they can detect
regionality. Maybe this approach is
positive and best? Concepts of
understanding regionality were discussed, and while the analytical approach is
the generally accepted one, Nick Mills proffered a ‘holistic’ view as the way. The wines offered for tasting certainly
expressed regionality – if one wanted to find them!
Three Central Otago wines demonstrated the temperature and
rainfall variations of their sub-regions.
From the hot Bendigo area, was the Misha’s
Vineyard ‘High Note’ Central Otago Pinot Noir 2008 (18.5/20), showing
tight, dark cherry fruit on nose and palate, excellent fine acidity, depth of
fine fruit, refined tannins and excellent length. With grapes from the cooler Gibbston region
came the Two Paddocks Pinot Noir Central
Otago 2008 (17.5-/20), lighter in colour and fruit depth, the aromas and
flavours of red fruits with a dried herb complexity allied to minerals and steel. Here the palate was still raw and a little
rustic. Then the coolish Wanaka sourced Rippon Central Otago Pinot Noir 2008
(18.0+/20), with garnet hues to the colour, soft strawberryish fruit on bouquet
and palate, but soft, harmonious and really quite complete as a wine.
These
were followed by two Marlborough wines, the more elegant nature of the gravelly
Wairau Plains wines, the richer, more textured clay-soiled Southern Valley
hills and the minerally, cooler, Awatere sub-regions discussed. Sourcing fruit from mainly the Wairau, the Nautilus Marlborough Pinot Noir 2008 (17.5+/20)
was ever so gentle and balanced on palate, a touch on the lighter and more
elegant side, with some complex nuances.
Bigger was the Southern Valley sourced Auntsfield Marlborough Pinot Noir 2008 (18.5+/20), dark coloured,
dense with excellent weight and concentration, possessing well-ripened dark
fruit flavours. A wine to age 5-7
years.
Two wines
from different regions followed, one from the northerly Martinborough area, the
other from the warm Waipara
Valley region. These had extract and grip. Looking exceptional well was the Palliser Estate Martinborough Pinot Noir
2008 (19.0-/20), dark ruby red, full, rich, lush and fleshy, the dark
savoury berry characters showing interest and complexity. The acid freshness was a feature. Excellent, soft extract. 4-6+ years easily. The final wine was the Waipara Springs ‘Premo’ Waipara Pinot Noir 2009 (18.5-/20), lighter
purple hued, youthful, quite tightly bound, but with intense, ripe, dark cherry
and berry fruits, elegant, refined, perfumed, but with excellent length.