By Raymond Chan
Three wine judging competitions and over 200 Pinot Noir wines judged, within the period of a month did not dull my anticipation for what was to be a highlight of the tasting calendar. A selection of 18 super-premium Pinot Noir wines from New Zealand should have been a delight to taste, but instead, it was sheer hard work. At this level of prestige and price, the wines were indeed serious ones, with plenty of structure and extract, and a high degree of input and aspiration built into them. In the most general terms, 2005 was a very good, low yielding, but difficult vintage, and the wines, as a group, had seemed to shut down their obvious fruitiness, leaving only the grip of tannins and pronounced acidity, thus making them a bit of a chore to work through. Nevertheless, thirty plus hardy souls examined and critiqued the selection.
The wines figured among the most expensive and most noteworthy in the country. Wines came from Gisborne, Hawke’s Bay, Martinborough, Nelson, Marlborough, Waipara and Central Otago. They were essentially a collection of some of the country’s top examples, served in three flights of six wines in relatively randomized order. The only concession to some sense of orderliness was to put into each flight, wines from the diverse regions.
Aspects that tasters considered included the concepts of ‘terroir’ and varietal expression and their interdependency (or exclusion) and the range of fruit-ripe flavours. Vineyard source, clones, age of vines all contribute to the basis of the finished wines. Vinification issues such as destemming, cold soaking and the type of yeasts for fermentation were examined, as was peak ferment temperatures, time on skins and oak maturation, plus filtration and fining. Alcoholic strength and quantities made were also noted. The wines were served blind. Here are my notes on the wines tasted:
Flight One
A little bit of a shock being served first, the Felton Road ‘Block 5’ Pinot Noir 2005 (19.0+/20) may have not been appreciated as well by the group of tasters as it might have been. Showing typical burgundian complexity of forest-floor aromas and flavours, this was rich, lush, balanced with excellent structure and very complex. Next up was the group’s second-preferred of the flight, the Gibbston Valley Reserve Pinot Noir 2005 (18.5/20), youthfully fresh with complex mineral and stalk componentry, lovely berry and aromatic characters of purity. A wine that may have become Martinborough Vineyard ‘Marie Zelie’ Pinot Noir 2005 (18.5-/20) was extremely seriously constructed with considerable extraction and noticeable acidity and oak forming a major part of the expression. Luscious savoury and forest flavours were very attractive. Martinborough Vineyard have decided to not release this as ‘Marie Zelie, but the preview of this still special wine was appreciated.) Lightest in colour was the Millton ‘Clos de Ste Anne’ Pinot Noir 2005 (18.0/20). Yet the essence of ethereal Pinot Noir was demonstrated here. Beautifully floral and with sufficient concentration to allow good development still. Seen as brooding, the Pegasus Bay ‘Prima Donna’ Pinot Noir 2005 (18.5-/20) was a solidly built wine with full, ripe dark berry flavours, dense and rich, and needing time to show what it is capable of. For the group, the most preferred wine of the flight was the Villa Maria ‘Single Vineyard – Taylors Pass’ Pinot Noir 2005 (18.5+/20). Youthful in appearance, this possessed excellent dark plum fruit characters on a dense, but plush and rich palate. The tannin structure was well-encased by the primary fruitiness. All agreed it need time to unfold; another ‘brooding’ wine.
Flight Two
Showing how consistent and well Villa Maria are performing with Pinot Noir, the
Villa Maria Reserve Marlborough Pinot Noir 2005 (19.0-/20) was the second preferred wine of this flight by the tasters. A wine of near perfect proportion, this has savoury raspberry fruit flavours with complex nuances on a harmoniously constructed palate. A classic in every sense.. The
Sileni ‘Exceptional Vintage’ Pinot Noir 2005 (18.0/20) was tougher and tighter with a real core of concentration and grip. Dark cherry and berry fruits showed underneath the tannins. Also not showing its best was the
Quartz Reef ‘Bendigo’ Pinot Noir 2005 (17.5+/20). Though possessing excellent dark cherry fruit with a funky forest twist, the powerful structure was dominant. The key to its future could be seen in the freshness and liveliness of fruit, but all agreed it was a wine that would blossom. Most preferred in this flight was the
Peregrine ‘Pinnacle’ Pinot Noir 2005 (18.5-/20) for its delicious raspberry and dark cherry flavours. For me, it was still subtly expressed with a steely, fresh and minerally element toning it down. Still, this had superbly supple and fine tannins that will enable aging ability. Well received also was the
Mt Difficulty ‘Pipeclay Terrace’ Pinot Noir 2005(19.0+/20) with its plump and generous cherry, berry and dark plum flavours. Notes of complex game and earth also. Lovely richness with perfect balance of tannin extraction, this had a very long finish. Lesser received was the
Ata Rangi Pinot Noir 2005 (18.0+/20). Some dried herb componentry and linear dark berry fruit flavours formed the base here. Just a little tight, taut and tannic and not as much dimension here, but still a serious effort.
Flight Three
A very pleasant start to the flight was the most affordable wine of the tasting, the Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir 2005 (18.5-/20). Elegant in size, this had lovely fresh strawberryish fruit flavours just starting to show some savoury development. The wine had excellent construction with its fine textures and balanced tannins. The least preferred of the flight for the group was my pick of the wines in this flight. The Escarpment ‘Kupe’ Pinot Noir 2005 (19.0/20) displayed full and concentrated dark berry fruit characters with power. The primary nature of the fruit was enhanced by the richness of expression, which was underlined and supported by the extraction. Needing time to develop its true complexity and style, this had potential. Possibly still monolithic for many tasters? The most preferred of the flight for the group was the Felton Road ‘Block 3’ Pinot Noir 2005 (18.0+/20). I saw the lighter, cooler, strawberry and savoury nature in a smaller scale way. Lovely and lush, however, this was well-balanced, and demonstrated its family resemblance to the ‘Block 5’ with its burgundian style. The Fromm ‘Clayvin’ Pinot Noir 2005 (18.0/20) was youthful and unforthcoming at present. Linear raspberry and cherry flavours with a ripeness and plumpness, there is acidity and a firmness to the mouthfeel, which will soften over the next few years. I enjoyed the Mt