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Wine Review

Quartz Reef – Central Otago Jewel

By Raymond Chan
As a pioneer of Central Otago, Rudi Bauer understands and believes with a passion in the wonderful future for Central Otago as a fine wine growing region. With two decades of experience making first-class wine there, he sees himself at the beginning of the journey, one that will by necessity be carried on by generations after him. The larger perspectives and also the fine detail play roles in his motives and actions. It was with great interest that we tasted a range of his wines that included verticals of his Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and ‘Bendigo Estate Vineyard’. Here are my notes from the tasting:

Methode Traditionelle


Now made from 15 ha of vineyard dedicated to the production of this style. Rudi sees the fruit expression as a key component in the style made. We are sure to see a greater depth and complexity built into the wines, which are already at the top of the New Zealand sparkling game. The input of Clotilde Chauvet from Champagne has been most significant. We have selected the Quartz Reef Methode Traditionelle NV (17.5+/20) for our Top 30 for a number of consecutive years. Two thirds Pinot Noir and lusciously fruity and fresh with lemony notes, while at a very dry 6 g/l rs. The Quartz Reef Methode Traditionelle Vintage 2003 (18.5+/20) was spectacular with its concentration and finesse of bready autolysis with fresh, yet rich fruit. 62% Pinot Noir. Stunning sparkling wine.

Pinot Gris 2005 - 2007


First made in 1999, the style is dry, with warm ferment in stainless steel, but plenty of lees work. The Quartz Reef Pinot Gris 2005 (18.0-/20) was full of stonefruit flavours on a rich and rounded palate. Lovely soft, savoury honey and minerally-mealy nuances were the feature on this wine reaching a plateau. My pick, but least preferred by the group of tasters was the Quartz Reef Pinot Gris 2006 (18.5/20). Excellent aromatic lift of bright and fresh stonefruits, a touch of steel and lovely fine textures and concentration here. Other people saw some firmness of grip. The most preferred for the group was the just-released Quartz Reef Pinot Gris 2007 (18.0+/20), still showing fermentation esters and pear-like fruit, but already with classy, refined textures. The style was atypical for New Zealand Pinot Gris and this different take was enjoyed by all.

Pinot Noir 2002 – 2007


A group of wines that impressed with their consistency of style and quality. Not of your often-seen ‘fruit-bomb’ Central Otago style, the wines possessed an amazing evenness despite the widely differing vintage conditions. A tribute to the Bendigo site and Rudi’s deft handling. Certainly, Rudi has not stood still, and his early efforts of ‘fruit expression only’ wines were followed by those with significant structure. Rudi’s current work is focused on the textural qualities of the Pinot Noir wine. First up was the Quartz Reef Pinot Noir 2002 (18.5+/20) from a warm and hot year. Now showing secondary characteristics of forest-floor, quite complex with game, but this has richness and excellent structure. These 2002s are lasting extremely well. The Quartz Reef Pinot Noir 2003 (18.5-/20) from a cooler year, seemed a little dis-jointed on initial impression, but came together well. Some secondary development just appearing, this had more freshness and acidity, though a firmness and grip came through. 2004 was a cooler vintage with higher yields experienced country wide. The Quartz Reef Pinot Noir 2004 (18.0/20) is a gorgeous effort, with cooler strawberryish fruit, a lovely core of fresh and succulent fruit, though on a smaller, albeit well-proportioned palate. The Quartz Reef Pinot Noir 2005 (18.5+/20) showed the higher skin to juice ratio from tiny berries and low yields. Brackish raspberry and plumy fruits in the darker spectrum and great concentration, density and structure. Could be interpreted as hard and too big, but a statement wine for others. I liked it. Rudi sees the Quartz Reef Pinot Noir 2006 (18.0+/20) as a ‘sleeper’, with everything there. It was ideed shy and reserved, with tight, but up-front fruit expression, raspberryish in style/ Primary still and with very fine tannins in prominence at present. The product of an early, hot and higher yielding vintage. 2007 was a smaller and cooler year, but the Quartz Reef Pinot Noir 2007 (18.5-/20) was well-received for its bright raspberry and dark cherry flavours that exuded a richness and sweetness. Plump from youth, there was good structure and texture underneath the puppy fat. One to look forward to as it ages. Overall, an excellent line-up.

Bendigo Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir 2004 – 2006


This site is special. After all, it was the foundation for Rudi and the Perriam family to invest and dedicate much of their lives to the Quartz Reef label. The aspect and quartzy-granite soil there confers qualities yet to be understood fully, and the feel is Cote d’Or to me. The label is a bottling of the best looking single-ferment in the winery, regardless of style parameters. The wine can be as different and funky from the regular label, but individual character is the key to the selection by Rudi. Invariably, it is bigger and more structured, and so it should be, as a super-premium expression of the vineyard. It should and will no doubt age well. The Quartz Reef ‘Bendigo’ Pinot Noir 2004 (18.5+/20) is powerful and dense, especially surprising, considering the vintage. Wonderful aromatics and perfumes abound, but it is the powerful structure that is the feature. Secondary notes appearing, but this will last a decade. The Quartz Reef ‘Bendigo’ Pinot Noir 2005 (19.5-/20) is a massively rich wine with savoury red and dark fruits throughout. Rudi calls it ‘Darth Vader’ and ‘The Force’ is certainly with this one! Great power and still, most importantly, great Pinot Noir. Interestingly, in the context of all of Rudi’s wines, this looked better than in last week’s ‘Premium N.Z. 2005 Pinot Noir’ tasting, where it looked backward and brooding, with complexities of flavour giving it a point of difference. The final wine was the Quartz Reef ‘Bendigo’ Pinot Noir 2006 (19.0+/20). Not quite as large as the 2005, this had more savoury and complex flavours, in a slightly cooler spectrum. The tannins are extremely fine and the proportional density and concentration are superb. Another special wine and indicative of the quality and distinctiveness of the fruit from this top vineyard site.
The Products...
QUARTZ REEF METHODE NV
Quartz Reef Methode Nv
The input of Clotilde Chauvet from Champagne has been most signifi...
$32.25 750 MLS
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Staff Recommendations

DAVID

Easter weekend I flew up to Auckland and had a great time visiting family. I made sure I went to Maison Vauron, a must if you enjoy French wines and also Galbraiths to try a few craft beers.

RICHARD

Roast Chicken for dinner evidently. Which Kumeu River Chardy shall I choose?
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