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Raymond "What We're Drinking" Archive

Penfolds ‘RWT’ Shiraz 2005
It’s a bit odd that I’m batting for this wine, especially as I’m a confirmed ‘Grange’ addict. After all, for my 45th, I looked at 1996 back to 1969, and I still love buying the best years, even though it’s got that $500.00 price tag. However, the ‘RWT’ is a special wine in its own right. Single region – Barossa, as opposed to multi-regional blend. French oak, rather than American. Opulence, lusciousness and silkiness rather than full-on muscle and power. And it’s delicious for it. I’ve tried it over the last three years and it gets better and better. The sweetness of fruit is the feature, but then so is the oak. 14 months in 70% new, it has unimaginable shine and exoticism. At less than half the price of ‘Grange’, it’s a real bargain, even at just under $200.00. And it’ll keep another 15+ years.  September 2010

Instinct Hawke’s Bay Cabernet/Merlot/Malbec 2007
I have it on good authority that this wine is the CJ Pask Gimblett Road Cabernet/Merlot/Malbec 2007. Both are made by Kate Radburnd, and the two are priced pretty much identically. However, I detect a difference in taste. Not that one is better than the other, but more the fact they taste a little apart. Taking a step back, the similarity is stronger than any perceived difference though. They both share intense, deep and strong blackcurrant and dark plum flavours, on an excellently structured palate that offers great freshness and liveliness. They’ll both make great drinking with any roasted red meat dish. But the CJ Pask has a nuance of savouriness and a touch of leather. Secondary complexity? The Instinct seems to be darker fruited and a touch more primary. Was it bottled later? I don’t know that, but just for now, I’ll choose the latter – by a whisker.  August 2010

Mt Beautiful Cheviot Hills Pinot Gris 2009
As a first release of a Pinot Gris, this could not be better for Mt Beautiful’s owners David and Leigh Teece, and it is a credit to winemaker Sam Weaver in interpreting the fruit. The wine is full and rich and the nose and palate is laden with rich, ripe pear characters with the essential spiciness to make it more than just "white paint on a white canvas”, the denigrating description of the many soulless versions of this grape variety. At 14.5% alc, it’s very satisfying, and the fruit depth makes the wine seem more than the 5.4 g/L residual sugar – technically dry to taste. The Cheviot Hills is a bit in no-man’s land it seems, between the Awatere in Marlborough and Waipara in North Canterbury. This excellent wine will help people take note of the region and the label. It’s that much of a star.  August 2010

d’Arenberg ‘d’Arry’s Original’ Shiraz/Grenache 2006
This is a bit of a ‘warts and all’ type of wine. It’s got a few ugly things about it, but it’s worth getting past the detail on first impressions. Okay, it’s a bit reductive – that’s sulphide compounds – showing as inky-stinky. But behind it is something warm, solid, gutsy and a decent Aussie, drinking red wine. It’s 50/50 Shiraz and Grenache from the McLaren Vale and given a bit of time in oak to help it meld together. Big black fruit flavours spiced with pepper and with a good backbone behind it all. It’ll handle big meaty dishes now, but I know it’ll keep well for a decade and a half, becoming more at peace with itself on the way, and I wouldn’t be surprised if it turns out quite a classy number at the end of it all. The Osborn family bottled it as a special to commemorate d’Arry’s 80 years in the McLaren Vale. They wouldn’t dare make it a bad one… July 2010

Konrad ‘Sigrun Noble Two’ Riesling/Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Stickies are something special to bring out to share with good friends after a lovely meal…or else something to treat yourself with a small sip of decadence, but only if the wine is a good one with noble botrytis and balance. The Konrad delivers, and without fanfare. Konrad Hengstler isn’t a showy man, but he is proud of his sweet wines and justifiably so. He has a bit of a track record with the style, not intending to make the stuff originally. The 2001 and 2007 wines were out of this world and this 2008 is heading the right way. He’ll be up there with John Forrest and the Villa Maria team in the consistency and quality, but Konrad’s wine is so affordable. Light golden yellow, slight VA lift, but this can be forgiven; lush honey and florals with limey notes, marmalade, all kept from cloying with spot-on acidity. This is great now, but will be greater in a couple of years.  July 2010

Drouhin Montrachet 'Marquis de Laguiche' 2007
I'm not really drinking this at present! But rather, I've just tasted it recently, and would love to have it to drink in 10-15 years time. When Alexander Dumas said Montrachet should be drank with one's head bared and on one's knees, the respect for the wine was not over the top. This is truly magnificent. Too young at present, but the promise is astounding. The wine is restrained and brooding, yet is enormous in power, richness, oak and depth. I know it'll come right and show superbly. I've been lucky to try several vintages of the Marquis de Lagiche Montrachet from Drouhin over the last five years, the 2001, 2000, 1997, 1985 and 1983. Each one was remarkable and totally memorable. I'm going to save my dollars and fork out for it. I hope no-one beats me to it before I accumulate the dosh. Sometimes, you've just got to go for it.  June 2010

Peter Lehmann Barossa Shiraz 2008
It’s easy to not like an Aussie wine right now. They’re doing it all wrong over there and they’ve ruined their image. And we’ve got to be careful we don’t do the same with our Sauvignon Blanc. Make too much, undersell it, devalue the brand and ruin it for all the industry. Thank God for determined, quality oriented producers who do it properly all the time – like Peter Lehmann, everybody’s friend from the Barossa Valley. Though owned by the Hess Corporation, they run the show based on Barossa Valley grower ethics. Good grapes for good, honest wine. That’s what this wine is. From a top vintage, it’s got a dark colour, ripe blackberry, liquorice and peppery fruit laced with sweet and spicy oak, on a plump, easy and super-smooth lush palate. It’s what the Barossa does best, and no-one else can match it. For one of the best Lehmann Barossa Shiraz wines in quite a while, and at just over $20.00 a bottle, it’s unbeatable value. It’s one Aussie that you can’t help like.  June 2010

Mondillo Central Otago Pinot Noir 2008
You can’t go wrong when you think a Champion Wine of the Show is something pretty smart. And that’s the case with the Mondillo Central
Staff Recommendations

DAVID

Summer has arrived.Time for socialising outdoors with good wine and food.

RICHARD

In Upper Mongolia it is customary for the first person that spots a man wearing an eyepatch to buy a round of drinks for everyone.
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Auburn Riesling 2011 Preview
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