The wines of Rioja along
with those of the Ribero del Duero are the centre of attention for the world’s
wine lovers as the best from Spain. Interest in the Tempranillo variety, which is
the mainstay for the two regions, has never been greater. While the Ribera del Duero is a relative
newcomer (not considering Vega Sicilia!), Rioja has a fine tradition of
winemaking as we know it since the early 18th century following the
barrel aging influence of Bordeaux winemakers.
One of the most famous, reference point bodegas of Rioja is CVNE, the
Compania Vinicola del
Norte de Espana (the Northern Spanish Wine Company), known simply as Cune
(pronounced COO-nay). Established in
1879 by the Real de Asua brothers, Cune has continued to be at the forefront of
Spanish wine quality. We offer two wines
from this venerable bodega from the superlative 2001 vintage. Both are flagships and made in the Real de
Asua Cellar, an independent winery within the historic Cune winery quarters,
which allows the strictest controls in vinification.
Cune ‘Imperial’ Rioja Reserva 2001
The ‘Imperial’ is one of
the classic expressions of Rioja, first produced in the 1920s, but evolving
over the years incorporating the advantages of modern viticulture and
winemaking. Its name originates from the
special bottling for the English market in a measure called ‘Pinta Imperial’ or
‘Imperial Pint’, approximately half a litre in capacity. The 2001 Reserva is a selection of the best
grapes from around the village
of Villalba in the Rioja
Alta, and is a blend of 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo, fermented
in oak vats and stainless steel to 13.2% alc.
The wine was then aged in new American and French oak casks for two
years, before bottling and then undergoing a further two years aging before
release.
Deep garnet red in
colour, this has a pervading bouquet of oak vanillins, cedar and spicy red
fruits, leading to a concentrated and substantially structured palate with
density, richness and length. The
tannins are still firm, and the secondary cedary elements are just beginning to
emerge to accompany the savoury-spicy fruit and distinctive oak. Archetype Rioja, with another decade of life
ahead of it.
Cune ‘Real de Asua’ Rioja 2001
The icon wine for Cune
and a tribute to the founders of the winery, the Real de Asua brothers. The first vintage was in 1994 and the wine is
released only in the very best years.
The wine is 100% Tempraillo, from 40-plus year old vines from the company’s
finest vineyards in Villalba. The fruit
underwent two selection triages before fermentation in oak vats to 14.0%
alc. The wine was aged 14 months in 100%
French oak and is technically a ‘Reserva’.
Another level up in all
dimensions, this is dark, deep, black red with a touch of garnet. Possessing a powerful bouquet packed with
dark fruits, liquorice and spicy oak, the wine has a modern expression in its
outlook, vibrant with rich, ripe and luscious dark berry fruits, marked oak
lift, match by huge extraction, depth and length. Wonderfully luscious, with perfect acidity,
and extremely fine-grained. This wine is
at the start of its evolution and will show its promise in a decade and will
keep another decade after that. A superb
wine, and a top Rioja for the 21st century.