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Wine Review

Rousseau 2005 Red Burgundy And The 2006 Calvert Pinot Noirs

By Raymond Chan
The combination of the wines of Armand Rousseau and the outstanding 2005 vintage was always going to entice the true Burgundy lover to a tasting of the wines. It did not matter that the wines wee sold out, as just to taste the wines, even in this youthful stage was going to be a privilege. Having seen the wines from the domaine for well over a decade and a half, these 2005s were indeed awe-inspiring with their freshness and depth of ripe fruit, great concentration and structure, ageworthiness, yet ability to appeal immediately. At every level, the Rousseau wines shared these characteristics. These are traits of truly superb wines. To start this tasting, it was deemed appropriate to have as pre-tasters, the three 2006 Calvert Pinot Noirs made by three prominent winemakers, putting their winemaker signature on identical lots of fruit. It is a comparison that has been conducted before, with preferences varying each time, though the style of the wines is consistent. Here are my notes on the wines, served ‘blind’:

Pre-Tasters: The 2006 Calvert Pinot Noirs


Beginning this flight, the Pyramid Valley ‘Calvert’ Pinot Noir 2006 (19.0-/20) was youthful in appearance with very fine, tight soft red fruits and some secondary nuances appearing. Its concentration and tightly bound components along with underlying richness suggest this will age very well. However, it was not the top preferred wine of the trio, being equal to the Craggy Range for the group of tasters. Easily the most preferred of the flight was the Felton Road ‘Calvert’ Pinot Noir 2006 (19.0+/20). Though a little lighter in colour and less youthful, this was still full and dense with concentration. A little softer and rounded, and broad even, this opened out in the glass showing complex secondary flavours of game, earth an forest floor. Some stalk notes added interest. Very burgundian to many tasters. The Craggy Range ‘Calvert’ Pinot Noir 2006 (18.5+/20) was the darkest in colour in fruit expression. Less nuanced, this had dense dark plum flavours, rich and with an opulence, but still firmly structured. Oak was noted, and this should age well too. On this showing, the Felton Road seemed to be the group favourite. What else could happen, at a tasting of fine burgundy wines? Yet all three wines were well-appreciated.

Flight One: Village and Premier Cru


Always a flight that shows less exuberantly, especially when following fruit-forward New Zealand wines, but on this occasion, these looked very good. The Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin 1er ‘Cazetiers’ 2005 (18.0+/20) had a dark ruby colour with youthful hues. Black fruits with a hint of reduction, florals, acid and tannin showing prominently, this had length and componentry to age well. The Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin 2005 (17.5+/20) was the preferred wine of the pair for the group of tasters, with its softer and more integrated mouthfeel, suppleness and balance. An ethereal spice note added to its interest, this was a little less intense than the ‘Cazetiers’, but more harmonious.

Flight Two: Grand Cru


Interestingly, the grand cru wines in this flight are steadily growing in stature. Compared with the previous flight of wines, these are a step up in structure, but often not inspiringly so. Against the top grand cru wines, they do not quite possess the magnificence, richness and individuality. But over recent vintages, the gap has been closing, the Clos de la Roche and Ruchottes in particular making gains. Experienced Rousseau lovers have always said that these grand cru wines need time to show their true pedigree, and it is so. The Rousseau Mazy-Chambertin 2005 (18.0-/20) had a core of bright dark berry fruit aromas and flavours, with considerable firmness and concentration. The expression relatively linear at present, but obviously with potential. However, the least preferred of the flight. The most preferred of the four for the group of tasters was the Rousseau Clos de la Roche 2005 (19.0-/20), vibrantly coloured with minerally and steely, primary fruit, luscious and juicy on the palate with excellent acidity and fine textures carrying through to the very long finish. Outstanding wine. Next preferred was the Rousseau Ruchottes-Chambertin 2005 (18.5+/20). This was soft, full, dense with great presence, though the fruit expression quite restrained. Plush and plump, there is complexity and interest to the black fruits in a nuanced way. The Rousseau Charmes-Chambertin 2005 (18.0/20) was the third preferred wine. A wine with intense dark fruit aromas and flavours, more one dimensional, more even in mouthfeel and flow, supple and moderately tannic. Nevertheless a wine with depth of character.

Flight Three: Top ‘Grand Cru’


These have always been magnificent wines with clear individuality of personality that is consistently seen. The 2005s are no different, and combine their expression of terroir with the clarity and richness of the vintage. First up was the Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin 1er ‘Clos St Jacques’ 2005 (19.5-/20). The least preferred of the flight, it was still a star. Showing secondary forest floor complexities and even a touch of reduction adding to the savouriness of the wine, it was rich, weighty and dense, solid, full and lush with it all. Tasters saw plenty of oak and chocolate and cocoa. The next wine was easily the most preferred by the tasters. The Rousseau Chambertin 2005 (19.5+/20) was amazingly concentrated and dense, packed with black fruits, still shy and tightly bound at this stage. The core of unresolved fruit concentration and tannin mass was simply stunning and the wine was one of undeniable greatness and potential. I personally preferred the Rousseau Chambertin ‘Clos de Beze’ 2005 (20.0/20), which was second preferred for the group. Showing a beautiful delicacy of perfume and an array of aromatics not seen in the other wines, this was simply stunning with its succulence, sweetness and vitality. Massive in extraction, the tension of the wine and harmony made this truly great. All three wines were in a class of their own, and they are a privilege to taste.
The Products...
ROUSSEAU CLOS DE LA ROCHE 07
Rousseau Clos De La Roche 07
Rousseau Clos de la Roche 2005 (19.0-/20), vibrantly coloured with mineral...
$254.70 750 MLS
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ROUSSEAU GEVREY CAZETIER 07
Rousseau Gevrey Cazetier 07
The Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin 1er ‘Cazetiers’ 2005 (18.0+/20) had a dar...
$185.35 750 MLS
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GROS MICHEL VOSNE CLOS DE REAS 06
Gros Michel Vosne Clos De Reas 06
A relatively ripe and distinctly toasty nose of spicy red and dark berry fruit aromas si...
$168.90 750 MLS
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Staff Recommendations

DAVID

Easter weekend I flew up to Auckland and had a great time visiting family. I made sure I went to Maison Vauron, a must if you enjoy French wines and also Galbraiths to try a few craft beers.

RICHARD

Roast Chicken for dinner evidently. Which Kumeu River Chardy shall I choose?
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