By Raymond Chan
In many ways,
the annual Rousseau red burgundy tasting is the highlight of the calendar. Having tasted the range over the last 17
years, one has learnt reliance on the wines as being benchmarks by which the
other burgundies we see are judged by.
The style and quality has been remarkably consistent, and if anything,
the wines are brighter in fruit and clearer in expression of terroir than ever
before. The only drawback has been the
increased world-wide demand for the production of 5,400 cases yearly, and
dwindling allocations to New
Zealand and accompanied price rise. Despite this, the wines are more than
desirable to taste and purchase.
The tasting of
the Rousseau range was yet again a lesson in vineyard sites and terroir, as can
be expected. The 2006s in following the
magnificent 2005s were going to find it tough, but the finding was that the
2006s have improved by putting on weight and showing gorgeous fruit
sweetness. But also the freshness and
acidity were remarkable, adding to the liveliness and indicating good
potential. 2006 is turning out to be a
little cracker of a vintage!
As with last
year’s tasting, a flight of wines from the ‘Calvert’ vineyard in Central Otago served as pre-tasters. This was a lesson in winemaker signature, now
repeated several times. Howdo the wines
look, two years down the track?
Flight One: The ‘Calvert’ Pinot Noirs
Identical
parcels of fruit from the Felton Road winery managed vineyard were given to
Adrian Baker of Craggy Range, Blair Walter of Felton Road and Mike Weersing of
Pyramid Valley, to make into wine. The
wines produced have proven to be markedly different, but similarly high in
quality. The preferences for the wines
varied according to audience and situations.
How would the show here, served blind?
First was the
Felton Road ‘Calvert’ Pinot Noir 2006
(18.5/20), bright, light ruby red with lighter garnet edge to the colour, this
was beautifully soft and elegant on nose with intense red berry fruits and
floral notes The palate was still tight,
but an ethereal elegance pervaded. Soft
red fruit flavours, good fresh acidity along with good tannin depth and a long
finish completed this wine. Marginally the
most popular of the three for the group of tasters. Following was the Pyramid Valley ‘Calvert’ Pinot Noir 2006 (19.0+/20). Moderately deep ruby red with a good heart to
the colour. This had a fresh, piercing,
intense nose of bright red fruits, quite minerally and steely, very
youthful. Dense and tightly constructed
on palate, this had power, firmness and fine grained tannins. Wonderful delineation of expression, some
funky notes showing, and great length.
Pipped by the above into second preferred of the flight for the
tasters. Third was the Craggy Range ‘Calvert’ Pinot Noir 2006 (18.5-/20),
with its deep ruby red colour with a touch of tawny garnet. This was fuller and broader on nose, with a
density yet openness of ripe dark plum aromas.
Softer and more open on palate, this had rich, broad, plump and juicy
flavours. There was a solid density to
the wine, and soft, but long finish. On
this showing, the less preferred of the flight.
Tasters who
had experienced these wines felt that while the wines showed consistent
personalities, the differences were becoming less marked, and there was an
impression of similarity creeping in. Is
this ‘terroir’ finally exerting itself, as it does in many burgundies?
Flight Two: Village and Premier Cru
The introductory
wines to those of Rousseau. These
immediately impressed with their bright fruit and aromatic lift. First was the Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin 1er ‘Cazetiers’ 2006 (18.0-/20), where
Rousseau has 0.596 ha of the 8.43 site.
Bright, but pale ruby red colour, this had excellent depth of fresh
berry fruits, youthful and fresh and with intensity. On palate, this exhibited lovely florals and
dark berry fruits, bright and with a luscious sweetness and succulence. Well-ripened, good extraction, bright and tight. Next was the Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin 2006 (17.5-/20). Rousseau has 2.21 ha of village vineyard
holdings. Quite full in colour, this had
a fresh nose with bright soft berry fruit aromas along with a subtle herb and
stalk note, without the dimension of the premier cru. Texturally firm on palate, with good depth of
flavour, though a touch of coolness, and a herb note showing. Good tannin backbone and some length. The two wines were equally liked and it was
difficult to guess their identity correctly, served blind.
Flight Three: Grand Cru
An obvious
step up with these wines in terms of ripeness and weight. Again, these wines were well-received, for
their tautness and precision. The most
difficult flight to taste, assess and attempt to identify. First was the Rousseau Ruchottes-Chambertin 2006 (18.5+/20). Rousseau owns 1.06 ha of the total 3.30 ha of
the site. Bright ruby red in colour,
this had volume of bouquet which was expressed with great class and
finesse. Fresh and still tight, with much
to emerge. On palate, this had great
concentration of red and dark berry and cherry fruits along with a steeliness
and tension. Firmly constructed, but
very fine-grained. First equal in
preference in this flight for the group of tasters. Next was the Rousseau Mazy-Chambertin 2006 (18.0/20), where Rousseau owns 0.53
ha of the 9.10 ha site. Light ruby red
with some garnet to the colour, this had a bright and fresh cherry liqueur nose
enhanced by a lift of florals. Fully
structured on palate, this had plenty of grip and extract. Taut, leanish and firm, the fruit sweetness
did not quite match the tannins. Good
length. Tbut this should keep and
develop well. However one of the lesser
preferred of the flight. But equal first
preference was the Rousseau
Charmes-Chambertin 2006 (18.5/20), where Rousseau owns 1.37 ha of this
30.83 ha site. Full, even ruby red with
some orange hues, this possessed a beautifully fragrant bouquet of soft red
berry fruits and a touch of mint. Soft,
supple and lush on palate, the balance and harmony of all the componentry was a
feature. Medium weight, lovely sweet and
ripe fruits, with a delicacy, and fine, gentle tannins. Very long on the finish. Final wine in the flight was the Rousseau Clos de la Roche 2006 (18.5/20).
Rousseau has 1.48 ha of this 16.90 ha
grand cru situated in Morey-St-Denis.
Dark, deep ruby red in colour, this was tight and shy on nose, the
bright red berry fruits sitting with a little resiny oak. On palate however, despite its reticence, the
wine was still plump and sweet with ripe plum and dark berry fruit
flavours. This was quite fleshy and
easily matched its extraction, resulting in a soft density. In retrospect, these grand cru wines
exhibited their terroir characters distinctly.
Flight Four: Top ‘Grand Cru’
These final
three wines are always the highlight of the Rousseau tastings. Whereas often, the previous flights of
village, premier crus and grand crus can be deceptively underwhelming to the
uninitiated, these top ‘grand cru’ wines always deliver in exhilaration. The top three wines are in another class of
their own in fruit richness, structure, interest and ageworthiness. Any of them will improve for a decade, and
then hold for another two. The Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin 1er ‘Clos St Jacques’
2006 (19.0+/20) comes from 2.22 ha owned by Rousseau of the 6.70 ha
site. Pale ruby red in colour, this had
an intensely fragrant bouquet of red fruits, florals , fennel and liquorice
that was open and inviting. On palate
this was a wine of depth and power, with masses of concentrated, but richly
succulent fruit. The softness and
sweetness allowed immediate accessibility, and a degree of elegance if not
harmony. The second preferred of the
flight for the group of tasters. Next
was the easily the most preferred of the three wines, the Rousseau Chambertin ‘Clos de Beze’ 2006 (20.0/20), from 1.42 ha of
the 15.40 ha site. Bright, deep, ruby
red with purple hues, this was amazingly full, dense and concentrated on
bouquet, the aromatics of ripe dark and red fruits, complexed by layers of
spices. On palate, the wine was still
tight and taut, but the weight and density of fruit was sensational. Rich dark berry and plum fruit flavours,
savoury and spice elements intensified with air time. The fruit decadence matched the considerable
extraction, and the balance of the wine was completed by the excellent
acidity. Drinkable now, and with real
pleasure, but this will improve over the next decade and a half. Last wine of the tasting was the Rousseau Chambertin 2006 (19.0/20),
from 2.15 ha of the 12.90 ha site owned by Rousseau. Medium ruby red with garnet hues to the
colour. This possessed a tightly bound
nose, with restrained red and dark berry perfumes overlaid by distinct cedar,
spice and nutty oak elements. The palate
was similarly locked up in flavour, but the immense structure was obvious. Tannin extraction was to the fore, but they
were very fine-grained. Oak spices and
cedar notes pervaded. However, the
enormous reserve of the wine and potential were undeniable. Try again in 5 years, if you can obtain any
bottles!