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Wine Review

Sacred Hill ‘Special Selection’ Masterclass 2007

By Raymond Chan
One of Hawke’s Bay’s great winemakers is Sacred Hill. From the value-for-money ‘Whitecliff’ range to the super-premium ‘Special Selection’ wines; from the Marlborough aromatic whites to the Hawke’s Bay serious Bordeaux-styled reds, all offer real quality and deliver for their price. Regional Wines was very pleased to conduct a multi-event promotion of the Sacred Hill wines where wine lovers could experience the Sacred Hill wines in different scenarios and environments. An in-store tasting at regional Wines offered a broad selection of Sacred Hill wines from the new 2007 Marlbrough Sauvignon through to the Gimblett Gravels Syrah and current Helmsman Cabernet/Merlot wine. A special food and wine matched dinner at Copita Eatery & Bar highlighted how a varied selection of wines enhanced good cuisine. And a masterclass of the ‘Special Selection’ wines demonstrated the quality and depth of the flagship wines made by winemaker Tony Bish.
I report on the wines presented by winemaker Tony Bish at the masterclass in this report. The wines were served in pairs, the current release with an older vintage, of each of the labels. Following are my notes and scores on the wines.

Flight One: ‘Sauvage’ Sauvignon Blanc


Single vineyard wine from the Dartmoor Valley. 250-350 cases annually.

Sacred Hill ‘Sauvage’ Sauvignon Blanc 2006
12.5% alc, <1 g/l rs. WBP, indigenous yeasts, 10 months in new and 1 y.o. French oak, no MLF. Pale straw yellow colour, some depth. Very fresh, aromatic nose, with herbs, fresh grass and spces with oak coming through. Dry, this is crisp with aromatic fruit character, fresh with florals and herbs and tropical fruits. Some mineral notes. Excellent oak presence, adding to the concentration and length. Still tightly bound. The lesser preferred of the two wines by the group of tasters. My score 18.5+/20

Sacred Hill ‘Sauvage’ Sauvignon Blanc 2004
13.5% alc, <2 g/l rs. WBP, natural yeast, 9 months in French barriques, no MLF. Light golden hued straw yellow colour. Soft, full nose with some aged dried herb and straw aromas, some good depth and presence. Dry, full and weighty with aged tropical fruit flavours. Still fresh and crisp with good acidity, but there is a rounded, smooth texture underneath. Developing interesting secondary flavours. The more preferred of the pair for the tasters. My score 17.5-/20

Flight Two: ‘Riflemans’ Chardonnay


First vintage in 1995. Not made in 1996 nor 2003. Old rooted Mendoza fruit, from the Riflemans Terrace vineyard. Around 700 cases made annually.

Sacred Hill ‘Riflemans’ Chardonnay 2006
14.0% alc, 1.38 g/l rs. WBP, aged 12 month in new French barriques. Light straw yellow with a pale edge. Very fresh, very tight, minerally nose, stonefuits and tropical fruit notes, a little raw and nutty. Very fine and tightly bound, this has immense concentration and superb depth. The mealy, minerally fruit is perfectly balanced by the depth of oak. Very fine, powerful and long. Needs another two years to show full potential. 19.0/20

Sacred Hill ‘Riflemans’ Chardonnay 2004
14.0% alc, <2 g/l rs. WBP, indigenous yeasts, 12 months in new and 1 y.o. French barriques. Light straw yellow with some golden hues. Full, rich, integrated and seamless nose with mealy fruit and oak. The nose has great depth and concentration. Complex and complete. On the palate, full, rich and creamy textured, this is mealy with toasty, nutty complexities. Excellent acidity for freshness. A superb wine of great depth, length and finesse. 19.5-/20

Flight Three: ‘Brokenstone’ Merlot


From a single vineyard in the Gimblett Gravels.

Sacred Hill ‘Brokenstone’ Merlot 2004
14.0% alc, Aged in French barriques. Dark, deep ruby red with a hint of garnet. Fine, elegant and perfumed nose, hint of reduction, but beautifully floral, classy. Elegant and tightly bound on palate, this has a steely edge to the plum and floral fruit flavours. Some savoury hints with slight sulphidic complexities. Very fine-grained tannins. 18.5-/20

Sacred Hill ‘Brokenstone’ Merlot 2002
14.0% alc, MLF in new French oak, 20 months in barrel. Very deep, purple red, black hued and impenetrable. Very youthful in appearance. Soft, full, ripe and plum and dark berried aromas, sweet bouquet and very intense. Rich, plump, plumy palate, this is ripe and lush. There are meaty elements just appearing. Excellent extraction, the tannins are very fine. Great depth, body and length. 19.0+/20

Flight Four: ‘Helmsman’ Cabernet/Merlot


From a single vineyard in the Gimblett Gravels.

Sacred Hill ‘Helmsman’ Cabernet/Merlot 2004
14.0% ALC, 75% CS, 15% Me, 10% CF, MLF in new French oak, 20 months oak aging. Very dark deep black hued ruby red colour, some garnet hues. Very elegant, fine and tight nose, classical Cabernet Sauvignon blackcurrant nose with plumy aromatics. Very fine and tightly constructed on the pa;ate, there is excellent concentration. Plump plum Merlot and blackcurranty flavours. Very fin-grained tannins, slightly bitter, but with good length. 18.5+/20

Sacred Hill ‘Helmsman’ Cabernet/Merlot 2002
14.0% alc, 75% CS, 25% Me, MLF in new French oak, 20 months in barrel. Very dark, black-purple red colour, very youthful. Classical blackcurrant and cassis nose, pure, fine and very intense. Very fine-grained palate, this is still very primary and tightly bound. Pure blackcurranty flavours, the tannins are still firm. This has great depth and concentration. This wine is still an infant and will evolve slowly. 19.0+/20

Flight Five: ‘Deerstalkers’ Syrah


From a single vineyard in the Gimblett Gravels. First commercial release in 2004, around 250 cases made yearly.

Sacred Hill ‘Deerstalkers’ Syrah 2006
14.0% alc, aged in 100% French oak for 18 months. Deepish purple red, very youthful. Shy on nose, this has excellent florals and perfumes, quite finely expressed. Elegantly sized palate, the pepper and florals are the feature, and the structure is refined. Good depth and lovely aromatic characters. This sample just bottled, but showing very well. 18.5+/20

Sacred Hill ‘Deerstalkers’ Syrah 2004
14.0% alc, 18 months in French oak. Darkish ruby red colour. Firm nose, quite elegant, but some reduction showing. Blackberries and spice, good oak backing. Fullish bodied, but still with an elegance. Blackberry and peppery flavours with ripeness and richness, meaty and gamey, some sulphidic notes. Good structure and grip. 18.0-/20
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DAVID

Easter weekend I flew up to Auckland and had a great time visiting family. I made sure I went to Maison Vauron, a must if you enjoy French wines and also Galbraiths to try a few craft beers.

RICHARD

Roast Chicken for dinner evidently. Which Kumeu River Chardy shall I choose?
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