In these modern times
where freshness and delicacy are attributes desirable in what we consume, we
have seen a move towards the more elegant dessert wines in the Germanic mould (pun
intended) which are lower in alcohol, higher in acidity and exuberant in
fruitiness. It is no wonder the other
classic table dessert table wine styles of Tokay, which are more often than
not, heavy, rich, cloying, savoury and oxidised, and to a lesser extent, those
of Sauternes, which are high in alcohol, low in acid, restrained in fruit, and
noticeably oaky. However, it is
gratifying to see the wines of Sauternes respond to the current trends with
greater balance of componentry, more finesse and cleanliness, whilst retaining
their unique style. The Sauternes region
of Bordeaux has
experienced a marvellous run of above average to outstanding vintages over the
past decade, and this has certainly helped the cause. The latest releases of the sweet white wine
producers of Bordeaux
have been particularly enjoyable, and we have a selection of 375 ml bottlings
available.
Recent Sauternes vintages:
2006: An
excellent vintage, pure, fresh and complex wines, but challenging to make,
88/100
2005: One of
the great vintages of the last decade, classic wines of power and elegance,
96/100
2004: A good
vintage, balanced wines with rich botrytis, selection required, less quantity,
82/100
2003: A
great vintage, with opulent and powerful wines, plenty of botrytis, some flabby
wines, 95/100
2002: A very
good vintage, the wines lighter with moderate botrytis, 85/100
2001:
Extraordinary vintage, wines with wonderful succulence and aromatic complexity,
98/100
Chateau Coutet Barsac 2006
An archetype Barsac, with
more floral and peachy fruit notes and real ‘cut’ and raciness, its premier cru
status well deserved. 38.5 hectares
under vines, planted to 75% Semillon, 23% Sauvignon and 2% Muscadelle. All Vinified and matured in wood, one third
of which is new.
Chateau Doisy Daene Sauternes 2006
One of the three Doisy
estates, and classified deuxieme cru. 15
hectares under vine, 80% Semillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc. Vinified in stainless-steel then matured in
oak, of which one-third is new. While
less luscious than say Doisy-Vedrines, it is very pure and refined with florals
and peachy fruit. A wine of great
elegance.
Chateau Filhot Sauternes 2006
One of the lightest and
most gentle of the Sauternes, not fully rich or luscious, and with more subtle
botrytis characters. Close to Cerons or
Ste-Croix-du-Mont in style. Vinification
in fibreglass tanks. 60 hectares under
vines, planted to 50% Semillon, 45% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% Muscadelle.
Chateau Bastor Lamontagne Sauternes 2005
A candidate for promotion
to the ranks of the classed growth Sauternes, and one of the most consistent
performers over the last several decades.
56 hectares at Preignac, planted to 80% Semillon, 17% Sauvignon and 3%
Muscadelle, fermented in stainless steel and matured in 25% new oak.
Chateau Raymond Lafon Sauternes 2004
This unclassified
property is at the foot of Yquem hill.
It was acquired by Pierre Meslier, the Yquem regisseur in 1972, who
applied the standards there to the making of this wine, with remarkable
results. Not quite the lusciouness or
the class of the very best Sauternes, but excellent. 16 ha, planted to 80% Semillon, 20% Sauvignon
Blanc.
Chateau Suduiraut Sauternes 2004
Chateau Suduiraut Sauternes 2003
Suduiraut lies north of
Yquem on the highest slopes of Preignac.
Disappointing for much of the first half of the 20th century,
quality has been impeccable since its acquisition by AXA Millésimes in 1992; it
is one of the leading premier crus. 90
hectares under vines, planted to 90% Semillon and 10% Sauvignon Blanc
Chateau Climens Barsac 2002
One of the great
Sauternes properties, with only Yquem regarded more highly. A premier cru, the 31 hectares are planted
wholly in Semillon, the wine matured in 35% new oak. Easily the best of the Barsac wines, Climens
is full and rich, and required cellaring to show its best.
Chateau d’Yquem Sauternes 2002
Chateau d’Yquem Sauternes 2001
Yquem is Sauternes
winemaking at its most perfectionistic.
There is an almost fanatical obsession for quality, and as a result,
Yquem is consistently the richest, most concentrated and most intense wine from
the region. Deemed in a class of its
own, it is a Premier Grand Cru. Acquired
by LVMH after long ownership by the Lur-Saluces family, the quality has been
maintained. Yields restricted to 9 hl/ha
(one glass per vine). Hand berry
picking, fermentation and aging in new oak for three years. 108 hectare under vine, planted to 80%
Semillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc.