The third most prolific white wine variety in New
Zealand with nearly 1,500 hectares, Pinot Gris is planted
from the top of the North
Island to the bottom of
the South. In all regions where it
grows, the variety has produced excellent examples. However, it is recognized that the number of
these excellent versions are far outweighed by a plethora of average or poor
wines, resulting in a great deal of caution in accepting the variety by the
general consumer. As Pinot Gris is
essentially identical genetically to Pinot Noir, the same criteria, such as
proper ripeness and reduced yields are required for the making of quality wines. There is a multitude of styles, ranging from
the lean, firm and acidic Pinot Grigio versions of Italy to the full, rich and
exotically spiced Alsatian examples to fully-worked white burgundy
look-alikes. The variation in sweetness
in different labels adds to the confusion in understanding Pinot Gris for what
it is, and if a particular bottling is what a drinker wants! Winegrowers, winemakers and wine drinkers
are still looking for Pinot Gris perfection.
We offer three very good wines which show quality and diversity:
36
Bottles Central Otago Pinot Gris 2009
This
is the second Pinot Gris from Douglas Brett and Jane Young, the 'Winesmiths'
who are negotiants, purchasing quality fruit and employing the expertise of Dan
and Sarah-Kate Dineen of Maude winery in Wanaka in making the wines. Made
from Cromwell Basin fruit, fermented to 14.1% alc and
7.5 g/l rs, this strikes an excellent balance of freshness and
accessibility. Lovely stonefruit and pear aromas and flavours, with a
lush, but refreshing palate, as can be expected from Central
Otago fruit. An off-dry
wine with the sweetness just perceptible, this invites you to aperitif sipping
and drinking with mildly-spiced Asian cuisine. A most attractive wine
that will keep well over the next 3-4 years.
Starborough Marlborough Pinot Gris 2009
Winemaker
James Jones has subtly increased the complexity of this Pinot Gris for
2009. Now a blend of 70%
O'Dwyers Road and 30% Awatere fruit, rather than
all Wairau grapes, this has added a little more zip and lift to the aromas and
flavours. The 2009 is 13.5% alc and 0.5 g/l less than the 2008 in
residual sugar at 6.5 g/l, but only a 'super-taster' could tell the
difference. And there's a touch of barrel-ferment too. However,
overall, the wine is improved a little. This is an all-purpose wine, good
for those who want a more gentle flavour than Sauvignon Blanc, but not needing
food to help it go down as in fully-worked Chardonnay. The 2008 is
drinking superbly now, and the 2009 will be just that much better when it has a
year in bottle. The new 2009 has already won a gold medal at the
International Aromatics Competition judged in October last year.
Couper’s Shed Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gris 2009
It came as a surprise to see this unknown
and new label take out the trophy at the 2009 Air N.Z. Wine Awards for Champion
Pinot Gris. However, once knowing that
talented winemaker Tony Robb at the Corbans winery was behind this wine, then
it is easy to understand its success.
The Couper’s Shed range is designed for limited release, mainly to
restaurants. The fruit for the wine came
from the inland Matapiro site, 35% wild fermented in old oak to 13.5% alc and
13.24 g/l rs. Straw yellow in colour,
this has shy, white stonefruit aromas, somewhat austere in expression at
present. Medium in sweetness on palate,
this is richly textured, and in fact is quite unctuous. Warm and generous, the
stonefruit notes are enhanced by subtle spice and warmth. This should show more
over the next 2-4 years.