By Raymond Chan
The wines of South Africa
deserve real attention again. The impact
of economic sanctions two decades ago have nearly been countered and the modern
industry is as innovative as the rest of the world. Quality is coming on par with any other
country as the benefits of new clonal material, modern viticulture and
vinification, and superior site selection make their mark. All this allied to the cross pollination of
international ideas, experience and practice has meant that it is not only
quality, but individuality, character and terroir are emerging. Now with around 115,000 hectares of vines
planted in a diverse range of growing areas, from cool, coastal to near desert,
all manner of wines are being produced.
The latest wines are being reported with considerable favour. This tasting, led by Martin Cahnbley, looked
at a good range of well reputed South African wines, from his portfolio. It was probably the finest collection of
South African wines tasted in Wellington
in around 15 years. And judging by the
reaction by those attending, it should be the first of many to come. Following are my notes on the wines tasted:
Flight One: White Wines
This was an
eye-opening group of wines, all quite taut with crisp acidity, and distinctly
varietal, quite ‘New World’ in all
respects. All benefitted with exposure
to air. First wine to be tasted was the Ken Forrester Stellenbosch Chenin Blanc
2008 (17.5-/20), at 14.0% alc, fruit from Helderberg, vines 35 y.o. this
was partially barrel fermented and aged 9 months on lees in 20% new French oak
with 3.9 g/L rs. Straw yellow in
colour, this had a classic, steely straw and white stonefruit bouquet and a
dry, crisply acidic palate and very good weight and textures. Minerally, there was a little sulphide
complexity adding real interest to the fruit.
Excellent oak balance, and a good finish capped this off. Next was the Pax Verbatim ‘Rockwater Fountain’ Stellenbosch Viognier 2008
(18.0-/20), at 14.5% alc and 1.9 g/L rs.
Brilliant straw yellow in colour, this was shy on yje nose, some SO2
clouding the fruit expression. Florals
and nutty notes emerged with breathing.
On palate, lovely luscious exotic tropical fruits, citrus, apricots and
honey combined with racy acidity giving a steely edge to the mouthfeel. Good richness, weight and length here. Next was the Bouchard Finlayson ‘Missionvale’ Walker Bay
Chardonnay 2008 (18.0+/20), at13.5% alc, BF and batonnage. Full straw yellow in colour, this had a tight
and firmly bound nose with mealy fruit and rich barrel-ferment spice and nut
aromas. On palate, tightly bound with
taut citrus and mealy fruit flavours on an intense, weighty structure. Rich creamy barrel ferment notes which unfold
and add a strong toasty element. All
kept in check with racy acidity. A bold
style that will develop greater breadth and flavour intensity.
Flight Two: Unique Red Varietals
A flight of
three red varietal wines that demonstrate the progress with styles apart from
the core Bordeaux-styles that have a proven track record. The first was the ground-breaking Bouchard Finlayson ‘Tete de Cuvee’ Walker Bay
Pinot Noir 2006 (17.0+/20), at 14.5% alc, made from a selection of best
barrels, 375 cases. Lighter garnet red
with a little brick. Quite elegant on
bouquet, quite fragrant with soft florals and red fruits, along with a cool
herb note. Very Cote de Beaune in
expression. Tightly bound and elegantly
structured, this has lush red berry fruit flavours and distinctive cedar and
spice oak. The acidity lends a firmness,
and carries the palate. Fruit now
showing some secondary nuances appearing.
A surprising burgundian-styled wine.
Next was the Luddite Stellenbosch
Shiraz 2005 (18.0+/20), at 13.9% alc, aged 12 months in 25% new oak, of
which 90% were French, 5% American and 5% Hungarian. Dar, deep ruby red colour with some garnet
hues on edge. This has a full,
well-ripened nose of red berries, earth and spicy oak. Medium to full-bodied, this has a rich,
luscious and mouthfilling palate with savoury berry, dark plum and
liquorice-like fruit laced with brown spices.
The tannin extraction is moderate and the suppleness allows the
sweetness of the fruit shine. This has a
degree of style and elegance. Drink now
and over 5 years. Next came the Kaapzicht ‘Steytler’ Stellenbosch Pinotage
2006 (18.5+/20), at 14.0% alc, aged 20 months in 100% new French oak. Very dark, deep, purple hued red, this had an
intense bouquet of dark berry fruits and spicy new oak backed by smoky, savoury
varietal nuances. On palate, the fruit
sweetness and ripeness are excellent.
Red and black berry fruits, smoke, spices and leather are matched by
powerful oak and plenty of fine-grained tannins. This is a fully ripened, firmly structured
and very much an international, modern beauty that will age 8-10 years easily.
Flight Three: Bordeaux Varietal Reds
Two wines,
each pure varietals. First was the Raats Family Estate Stellenbosch Cabernet
Franc 2007 (17.0+/20), at 13.5% alc, fruit from 20 y.o. bush vines, the wine
aged 14 months in 30% new French oak. Dark,
deep ruby red in colour, the bouquet is classic blackcurrant and cassis with
intensity and concentration. On palate,
the wine is youthful with brash blackcurrant and herb flavours, lively acidity
and firm tannins. On the cooler spectrum
and not quite the floral notes of the variety.
Very much Cabernet Sauvignon in style, and needing 2-3 years to soften
and develop nuance, and then drink over 6-8 years. Then a remarkable Klein Constantia Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 (18.5-/20) at 15.9% alc, rototank
fermentation and 24 months in new French barriques. Full, purple hued red in colour, the bouquet
was relatively subdued, though showing ripe cassis and minty aromatics. Soft, full and rich with a lovely glycerol imbued
palate, the flavours were of ripe black berry fruits, chocolate, plum jam and
prunes and a port-like component, all framed within a fully extracted, rounded
structure. The new oak lift just fits in
with the decadence. This will keep well
for 6-8 years easily.
Flight Four: The Cape Blends of Bordeaux Varieties
These are the
classic styles that have performed well for South Africa over the years. This flight demonstrated the variety of
styles seen now. First was the famous Meerlust Stellenbosch ‘Rubicon’ 2005
(18.0/20), at 14.42% alc, is 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 16%
Cabernet Franc, aged 24 months in 75% new French oak. Deep ruby red in c