It is interesting how
Shiraz/Viognier wines have become a new ‘variety’ or category in Australia. With the excess grape glut of several years
ago and the increasing desire for elegance in the red wines by Australian
consumers, the Shiraz/Viognier blend was ‘invented’. Of course, this blend is not new, for the
great wines of Cote-Rotie in the northern Rhone
have been made for generations from the steep vineyards above Ampuis, Syrah and
Viognier vines interplanted there. In Australia, winegrowers and wine drinkers are
revelling in this new expression of Shiraz,
and some fabulous wines are being made.
However, take care, as there are many wines that are not successful in
attempting the style. If not made well,
the lesser versions can be disjointed and ugly, whether in the leaner, astringent
style or in the broad, cloying and clumsy spectrum. Only careful picking for full ripeness and
sufficient acidity, proper co-fermentation and sensitive elevage will allow the
two varieties to work together. The best
Shiraz/Viognier wines will have the richness, spice and backbone of Shiraz with the lift,
greater exotic aromatics, elegance and freshness that Viognier contributes, in
harmony and balance. A number of
outstanding wines with a nod to the Rhone in style have emerged from the
relatively cooler areas of Australia. The ideal is to have wines that combine the
successful blending of the two varieties as well as expressing the ‘terroir’ of
the wines’ origins. Here are two superb
examples from South Australia:
d’Arenberg ‘The Laughing Magpie’ McLaren Vale Shiraz/Viognier 2007
The daughters of
winemaker Chester Osborn named their two wild pet Kookaburras the ‘Laughing
Magpies’. This name for the Shiraz (black) and
Viognier (white) blend was very appropriate considering the plumage colours of
magpies. The fruit from a drought vintage in 2007 has resulted in a wine of
dark purple-ruby red colour, intense bouquet of boysenberries, cherries, star
anise and jasmine and a complex flavoured palate combining black pepper, juicy
dark plums, black olive and earthy flavours, with a tight, elegant structure
and fine-grained tannins that are sufficiently supple to allow
accessibility. Excellent definition from
the acidity and a mineral edge will see the wine hold and develop another 8-10
years. 90% Shiraz and 10% Viognier co-fermented to 14.5%
alc. and aged 11 months in American and French oak barriques. Awarded golds at the 2008 Royal Adelaide Wine
Show and Blue-Gold at the 2008 Sydney International Wine Competition.
Yalumba ‘Hand- Picked’ Barossa Shiraz+Viognier 2007
Full, deep purple-red in colour, this has a
powerful nose, packed with dark berry fruits, cedar, mocha coffee, black and
white pepper, spices and florals. The
palate is broad and fully flavoured with plenty of complex and rich black fruits,
briar and savoury game notes, but lifted with a citrus zest and apricot
nuances. There is richness and softness
to the structure, but there is a degree of finesse and elegance as well as
great length. Fruit from the Eden Valley,
the Shiraz and
Viognier were co-fermented by winemaker Kevin Glastonbury, then aged 19 months
in 20% new French, and older French and Hungarian oak hogsheads to 14.5%
alc. 2007 harvest ripened one month
earlier than the average due to the drought conditions and very low yields. Delicious to drink now, this should keep 6-8
years. 5 stars by James Halliday in his
2010 Australian Wine Companion, 94 points in ‘Drink’ 2010 and trophy for
Champion Shiraz at the 2009 N.Z. International Wine Show.