By Raymond Chan
The 2007 vintage wines of Spade Oak made a
quiet but significant showing on release.
The Viognier wine one of the most opulent yet seen in this country, and
the Chardonnay exhibiting amazing youth for the vintage. This is a testament to the vision and
excellence of grape growing and winemaking of the Eileen and Steve Voysey, who have over 16 years of
viticultural, and over two decades of winemaking experience. The Voyseys are settled in the heart of
Gisborne where their 16 ha vineyard is planted to a most unusual and eclectic
mix of varieties, close-planted, and tended to by a combination of traditional
and modern techniques to maximise the character of the vines, the terroir of
the site and the enjoyment by the consumer.
This year saw their second release, with new and improved livery,
comprising two tiers of very distinctive and unusual wines. The tasting was an eye-opening one, not only
for the experience of tasting some innovative wines, but for the degree of
thought and planning behind them. The
future promises even more interest, with Petit Manseng, Marsanne and Albarino
to be released, as well as Tannat and new Chardonnay clones coming on stream. Following are my notes from the tasting:
Flight
One: Heart of Gold
This is the new, more accessible range under
the ‘Spade Oak’ Reserve-styled wines, Heart of Gold referring to the Central Valley region of Gisborne. This is the starting point for the release of
new varieties and styles. As the vines
age, and quality increases, the new varieties may make their way into the top
tier. A point of difference that the
Voyseys have taken with these wines is the blending of different varieties
balancing their attributes for harmony.
The first pair of wines were Austrian in
origin. First was the Heart of Gold
Gisborne Gruner Veltliner 2010 (17.0+/20), at 13.0% alc, 1.0 g/L rs, 3
months on lees. Pale edged, light straw yellow in colour. This had
a fresh, lightly herbal nose with white peach, mineral and peppery aromas, akin
a subtle Sauvignon Blanc. Dry on palate, this had good fruit sweetness
soft and gentle, yet fresh, with good acidity. Light herb and pepper
notes, very approachable, to drink now - 2 years. 75 cases made. And the Heart of Gold Gisborne St Laurent
2009 (17.5+/20), 12.5% alc, 100% destemmed, indigenous yeasts, aged 7
months in French oak, 20% new equivalent, 3.2 g/L rs. Medium deep ruby
red in colour. This had an intense bouquet of spicy, wild red berry
fruits, very aromatic, with a little lift adding to the interest. Medium
weighted, the bright and spicy red berry fruits and vibrancy from acidity were
the features. Soft, low-impact tannins supported the boldness of the
fruit lusciousness. The Pinot Noir heritage was obvious. Drink over
the next 3-4 years. 75 cases made.
The following pair were blends. The Heart of Gold Gisborne
Chardonnay/Viognier 2009 (18.0-/20), was 13.7% alc, 2.9 g/L rs, 60%
Chardonnay and 40% Viognier, wild yeast barrel fermentation, 50% MLF, aged in
30% new French oak equivalence. Bright, light golden straw colour, this
had a ripe tropical and peach fruited nose lifted with apricotty notes, quite
dense, solid, voluminous and textured on nose. Dry, but with real richness
and interest on palate, the interaction of ripe tropical fruits some exotic
lift, spicy oak all came together with an oily, unctuous mouthfeel.
Full-bodied. 130 cases made. Then
the Heart of Gold Gisborne Syrah/Tempranillo 2009 (18.0/20), 12.8% alc,
2.2 g/L rs, 63% Syrah, 37% Tempranillo, wild yeast fermented, 7 months in 40%
new French oak equivalence. Medium deep ruby red in colour. This
had a lovely waxy-red berry nose with cedar and spices, a little shy at
present. Medium-bodied, this was an elegant red with floral lift, black
pepper and spice from the Syrah, and dark chocolate flavours with fine, but
firm tannins providing excellent grip and structure through the palate.
The fruit sweetness carried through well to the finish. 215 cases made.
Flight
Two: Spade Oak Chardonnay
This was a fascinating examination of the
difference between screwcap and Vino-Lok closures. While familiar with screwcap, the Vino-Lok
was novel for most. The Teflon seal in the
Vino-lok was far more permeable than screwcap, as could be seen in this
comparison of 2007 Chardonnay. Overall,
the Spade Oak vineyard site lent a fine, citrussy elegance to the wines. First was the Spade Oak Gisborne
Chardonnay 2007 Screwcap (17.5+/20), 13.4% alc, with 10% Viognier, wild
yeast, 16 months in 20% new French oak equivalence. Bright light golden
yellow in colour. Somewhat reductive on opening, complex nutty amalgam
with mealy, tropical fruit emerging with breathing. Dry, full-bodied with
rich textures. Rounded and creamy, with complex ripe tropical fruit
flavours underlying the nutty complexity. In a tunnel now, this should
emerge with harmony over the next 12-18 months.
The Spade Oak Gisborne Chardonnay
2007 Vino-Lok (17.5-/20), was a deeper, darker light-gold colour. Show some oxidative characters on bouquet,
this was rich, broad and open with its ripe tropical fruit aromas. On palate, some oxidation, fully mature and
broad, very soft and fully integrated.
Drink up now! The group of
tasters enjoyed the forward nature of the Vino-Lok sealed wine, but the
advanced state was noted. If anything,
the reductive elements in the screwcap wine demanded more cellaring! Then the Spade Oak Reserve Chardonnay 2009
(18.5-/20), 13.3% alc, 2.7 g/L rs, 5% Viognier included, natural yeasts, 16
months in 20% new French oak equivalence, 50% MLF. Bright, light golden straw
yellow in colour. This had a beautifully fresh and tightly bound nose of
peaches and white stonefruits along with minerally aromatics. Dry on
palate, this was elegant and intense, with minerals and ripe citrus and
stonefruit flavour, with the barest nuance of exotic lift. Very
fine-textured, some MLF notes, oak very much in balance. Good freshness
that will help the wine keep 3-4+ years. 110 cases made.
Flight
Three: Spade Oak Viognier
Arguably the most successful varietal for the
Voyseys. Firstly the Spade Oak
Gisborne Viognier 2007 (18.5-/20), 14.4% alc, 6% Chardonnay, wild yeasts,
16 months in French oak, 50% MLF. Full, bright, light golden yellow in
colour. A very full, broad, open style, quite fat on nose with apricots
and peachy fruit, quite dense and solid. On palate, very fulsome and
rich, plump and creamy textured, oozing sweet fruit, quite exotic and decadent,
some nutty, nougat nuances showing. This seemed to be drinking on a
plateau now. Then the Spade Oak
Reserve Viognier 2009 (18.5+/20), 14.7% alc, 1.9 g/L rs, wild yeasts, aged
16 months in seasoned oak, 50% MLF. Bright, light straw y