Raymond Chan and Sue Davies
Telmo Rodriguez represents the new face of Spain, yet one that respects and values the traditions and resources of the old. Coming from his family bodega, Remelluri, in Rioja, Rodriguez found that indigenous varieties were facing extinction and that old vines from superb sites were not being utilised throughout Spain as well as in his home region. Teaming up with two other innovative oenologists in 1994, Telmo embarked on a voyage to bring the vinous treasures of Spain to the world with its new face. Those attending the tasting presented by Paul Farrell, of Vintners NZ, importers of Compania de Vinos Telmo Rodriguez were indeed treated to a diverse range of wines of real interest. Following are our notes on the wines tasted:
Flight One: The Whites
The Rodriguez Rueda Blanc ‘Basa’ 2008 (17.0-/20), 13.0% alc, a blend of 85% Verdejo, 5% Sauvignon Blanc and 10% Viura, all S/S fermented was pale and youthful with green hues and a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc look-alike with its crispness, freshness and herb and passionfruit flavours. Moderately rich, this carried good length. Very New World indeed! Next was the Rodriguez Valdeorras ‘Gabo do Xil’ 2008 (17.5-/20), 13.5% alc, made from the Godello variety without oak influence. Pale in colour, this had a breadth of stonefruit aromas and flavours with a degree of restraint in expression. Soft, warm and textured, the structure of this wine would make it versatile with a variety of foods.
Flight Two: Light and Youthful Reds
Led by the Rodriguez Alicante ‘Al Muvedere’ 2007 (16.0/20), 13.5% alc, 100% bush vine Monastrell, wild yeast fermentation and given no oak maturation, this was light red with garnet hues on edge. A soft, plump wine with ripe, warm-climate flavours, juicy and jammy, this showed a little oxidation flatness. Tannin content was low, enabling instant accessibility. The Rodriguez Cigales ‘ Vino 105’ 2008 (17.5/20), at 13.5% alc, a blend of Tempranillo and Garnacha was S/S vinified. Dark red with youthful purple hues, this was bright, fresh, sweet with dark berry and plum characters on a lively palate with good tannin grip. A fresh, modern red to suit all occasions.
Flight Three: Toro and Castilla y Leon
This proved to be a most interesting flight where the wines from the up-and-coming Tempranillo growing region of Toro, plus a Garnacha wine from Cebreros, also in the Castilla y Leon area were tasted without and with charcuterie to show how food benefits the showing of many European texturally-based wines. In each case, the wine was better received with food. First was the Rodriguez Toro ‘Dehesa Gago’ 2008(17.0/20), 14.5% alc, from bush vine Tempranillo, seeing no oak contact. Deepish ruby red in colour, this was fresh with the aromas of dark cherries and berries with a herbal element, not unlike many Central Otago Pinot Noirs. Essentially simple and low in extract, but attractive with its fruitiness. The Rodriguez Toro ‘Gago’ 2006 (18.0-/20), 14.5% alc, was 100% bush vine Tempranillo aged 14 months in foudre and barrique. This was dark ruby red with purple hues, youthful in appearance. Fullish-bodied, with prominent tannin extraction, this was relatively rounded with its more leathery, savoury and secondary game-like characters. A slight oxidative note took away from the freshness, but this was a seriously constructed effort. The Rodriguez Toro ‘Pago la Jara’ 2006 (19.0-/20), 14.5% alc, was Tempranillo with a small proportion of the white Albillo variety, from a total of 4 hectares, all wood vat fermented and aged 18 months in 70% new French oak. Dark, deep ruby red in colour, this had a beautifully rich and aromatic, floral bouquet allied to a sumptuous and succulent palate with fine-grained tannins. The dark berry fruit flavours unfolded in the glass, and its balance was impressive. Only 380 dozen made. The final wine in this flight was the Rodriguez Castilla y Leon ‘Pegaso’ 2006 (17.0-/20), 15.0% alc, 100% bush vine Garnacha, wood fermented and aged in French puncheons for 24-30 months. From Barrancos de Pizarra, this was garnet red in colour, light orange edged, with up-front raspberryish, warm-climate Garnacha fruit showing a little volatility. Though showing aromatic fruit and a degree of elegance, this possessed heat and dried on the palate to some degree.
Flight Four: Rioja
A pair of Riojas at the opposite ends of the spectrum in terms of aspiration, yet demonstrating typicity to many tasters. First was the Rodriguez Rioja ‘LZ’ 2008 (16.5/20), 13.5% alc, all bush vine Tempranillo, Graciano and Garnacha, seeing no oak contact. Medium ruby red in colour, this was a little restrained on nose but elegantly sized with some depth of floral fruits and the extraction a significant component showing. A simpler wine to drink with more rustic cuisine. TheRodriguez Rioja ‘Altos de Lanzaga’ 2005(19.0/20), 14.5% alc, was a blend of Tempranillo, Graciano and Garnacha, biodynamically grown from 4 ha over seven plots, aged 18 months in oak. Very dark red-black colour, this was an intense and tightly bound wine with richness, lusciousness and depth of sweet fruit matched by powerful toasty oak.. A wine of concentration and intensity, this is modern Rioja that will live decades. Only 390 dozen made.
Flight Five: Ribera del Duero
A pair of serious reds from Spain’s star wine-growing region. The Rodriguez Ribera del Duero ‘M2 de Matallana 2005(19.0-/20), 14.5% alc, was 100% organically grown Tempranillo, aged in 50% new French oak for 14 months. Dark blackish red in colour, this combined lusciousness of fruit with savoury complexities on a fully expressed, mouth-filling palate backed by serious, but supple tannins. Could be enjoyed soon, but capable of cellaring 7-10 years. The last wine of the night was the Rodriguez Ribera del Duero ‘Matalllana’ 2004 (19.5/20), 15.0% alc, made from 100% organically grown Tempranillo from sites totalling 4.5 ha, aged 15-18 months in 100% new French oak. Very dark ruby red in colour, this was a wine of very fine proportion and structure, great richness of fruit with a hint of volatility giving lifted complexities, layers of interest that unfolded in the glass and extremely fine-grained, but powerfully extracted tannins. Refined in poise, and in a sense, very ‘International’, but a wine that will cellar well for over a decade. 390 doz made