By Raymond Chan
Without any
doubt, Spain
is one of the most exciting countries for wine at present. The world is rediscovering indigenous grape
varieties and traditional or lost wine styles.
Spain, along with Italy has
these, and when combined with the benefits of modern perspectives, viticulture
and winemaking, very individual wines are remade or created. The arid climate, bush vine propagation
dedication of the finest winegrowers has led to modern Spanish wine in
particular being full of generosity, depth and great character that reflect the
growing conditions and sites as no other country can do. And at this emerging state of the wine
industry, prices are reasonable, enabling a large number of bargains to be had.
Matthew Deller and Stephen Bennett MW import an excellent range of such Spanish
wines, treasures to be sought-after.
Following are my notes on a selection of their wines presented:
Flight One: White Wines
Starting this
flight was a sparkling, a Covides ‘Vega
Barcelona’ Cava Brut Reserva NV (17.5+/20), at 11.5% alc, a blend of
Macabeo, Xarello and Parellada given 18 months aging on lees and in bottle
before release. Pale straw yellow with a
fine mousse, this was exceptionally clean, fresh and pure on nose and palate,
with refreshingly delicate apple, pear, mineral and nut characters. Without discernable autolysis, this was
simply refreshing and delightfully so.
Next on to two still whites. The Baluarte Rueda Verdejo 2008 (18.0-/20)
at 12.5% alc, was made from 50 y.o. Verdejo vines, cold fermented. Bright straw yellow, with a light nose, fresh
and minerally, this was very dry on palate, quite intense, showing minerals,
nuts and stonefruits, accompanied by fresh acidity and a light grassy, herbal
finish It possessed some richness and a pleasing length. Then came the Chivite ‘Gran Fuedo’ Navarra Chardonnay 2008 (18.0/20), at 12.5%
alc, cool S/S fermented with no wood contact.
Bright straw yellow with golden hues, this had a bouquet of fresh
steely, tropical fruits with some depth.
On palate, there was good richness of grapefruit and citrus flavours,
along with good acidity. Clean, crisp,
with a minerally note, this was up-front and attractive.
This was an
eye-opening trio of wines, all clean fresh and fruit-driven, not revealing
themselves as from a hot-climate. The
wines had a minerally aspect, all ‘Old World’
but quite modern in every way. It was
noted that they would be very food-friendly.
Flight Two: Tempranillo
Two wines to
show the traditional and modern expression of the same grape variety,
Tempranillo. The first was the Chivite ‘Gran Fuedo’ Navarra Reserva 2004
(17.0-/20), at 13.0% alc, a blend of 80% Tempranillo and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
with Merlot, aged in seasoned French ans American oak for 18 months. Deep ruby-garnet red with a little bricking
on edge, this displayed savoury, gamey, meat notes on the nose and a full, firm
palate, well extracted, a touch drying, the red fruits complexed by the animal
notes. Some brettanomyces present, but a
flavoursome, ‘Old World’ red wine enjoyed by
many tasters. Next was the thoroughly
modern Codice VdlT Castilla Tempranillo
2007 (18.0+/20), at 13.5% alc, 100% Tempranillo aged 6 months in French and
American oak. Dark, deep, purple red in
colour, this was fresh, lifted and aromatic with vibrant red and dark berry
aromas combined with oak shine. Lush,
juicy and vibrant on palate, this had a little alcohol warmth showing also, but
the fruit was backed by supple, gentle tannins.
Nearly a ‘fruit-bomb’, and enjoyable for it.
Flight Three: The Calatayud Wines of Norrel
Robertson MW
The talented
Scottish Master of Wine Norrel Robertson has been utilising old Garnacha vines
as the base material for his exceptional offerings from Calatayud. This flight featured three of his wines. The Armantes
‘Old Bush Vine’ Garnarcha Calatayud 2007 (17.0+/20), at 14.5% alc, made
from 50+ y.o. vines, 20% of the wine aged in oak, was deep garnet red with a
fresh aromatic nose of raspberries and minerals along with a touch of savoury
complexity to the bouquet. Medium-full
in body, this had warm raspberryish fruit framed within a firm, well-extracted
structure. Savoury earth notes and a
little alcohol heat came through, but this has good drive and length. This will drink well over the next 3-5 years. The Papa
Luna Calatayud 2007 (18.5/20), at 14.5% alc, is 70% Garnacha, 25% Syrah and
5% Mazuelo with Carignan, the Garnacha 70-100 y.o. The wine was aged 5 months in French and
American oak. Very dark, deep, almost
impenetrable, purple-hued red in colour, this had a reticent nose, packed with
ripe red and dark berry fruits, along with subtle herb and earth nuances,
waiting to unfold. On palate, this had
lovely sweetness and ripeness of fruit, still very primary, allied to
considerable tannin extraction, resulting in density. This will age extremely well, for 7-9 years The Papa
Luna Catatayud 2005 (18.0/20), at 14.5% alc, also 70% Garnacha, 25% Syrah
and 5% Mazuelo, aged 5 months in French and American oak, was dark ruby-red and
garnet coloured, with an soft, shy nose of savoury, cooked, red-berry fruit
aromas showing some secondary game and herb complexities. On palate, this was full, dense and well
structured, the fruit ripe and meaty, and the tannins rounding out, providing a
degree of integration, softening and balance.
Drink this over the next 5-7 years.
Flight Four: The Great Red Wines
A selection
of four red wines from exciting and top performing areas, from innovative and
quality aspiring producers. Billed as
‘Great Red Wines of Spain’ they certainly delivered plenty. The flight was marked by a step up in
extraction level and the fineness of the tannins. First was the Casa Gran del Siurana Priorat ‘Cruor’ 2005 (18.5+/20), at 14.5%
alc, a blend of 30% Garnatxa, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 15% Syrah and
10% Monastrell, aged 14 months in 50% new French oak. Dark ruby red with garnet hues, this had
lively red berry fruits on the nose with savoury and floral elements
intermingling and in harmony. Dry, rich
and powerful, this had very ripe red fruit flavours, almost port-like in
nuance, along with notes of meat and savoury game. The richness of fruit was kept in balance
with the cut from the alcohol and acidity plus tannin structure. The depth and concentration will ensure
cellaring for well over a decade. Next
was