However, size matters in the production of a consistent, high quality sparkling, and economy of scale provides the resource for exceptional wine, and also enable affordability, for what is undoubtedly one of the most laborious and complex wine styles to make. It comes as no surprise that Montana, owned by liquor giant Pernod-Ricard, as this country’s largest winemaker makes what is considered the finest ranges of sparkling wines of New Zealand. The ‘Lindauer’ range of sparkling wines is one of the world’s great labels, sadly coveted more internationally than locally. It is a remarkable wine, especially considering the quantities made.

Montana’s collaboration with the Deutz Champagne house, starting in 1988, has given the edge over others in terms of fruit management, vinification, the crucial blending process, elevage techniques and style definition. The resultant premium Deutz ‘Marlborough Cuvee’ range is classic Methode Traditionelle, right down the line. It is not the most fully-flavoured. It is not the most intense, nor does it show the most autolysis. Instead, it shows finesse, subtlety, softness, complexity, great balance and supreme drinkability. These are the hallmarks of the best sparkling wines that will be enjoyed by all. The quality of Deutz ‘Marlborough Cuvee’ has never been better, but winemaker Julia O’Connell is always pushing the boundaries, and two specialty cuvees, one just launched, are particularly spectacular.

Deutz Marlborough Cuvee Methode Traditionelle Blanc de Blancs 2006
The Blanc de Blancs variant is produced only in years when the base material is of superior quality. 100% Chardonnay sourced from vines with 14 years of age from the Renwick and Brancott vineyards on the southern side of the Wairau Valley, fermented to 12.0% alc and given three years aging on lees and bottled with a dosage of 12.0 g/l residual sugar. Refinement is the catch-cry for Blanc de Blancs, and this is textbook in style. The aromatics are gorgeous, with almonds and toast from the autolysis adding depth to the lift and laciness of flowers and lemon zest fruit notes. On palate, the class, freshness and finesse are apparent again. Beautifully expressed delicacy of stonefruits, with elegant, but definite baked bread and biscuity complexities on a fine-textured, creamy palate. The wine has a remarkably long, finish carried by its superb acidity. Gold medals and trophies for Champion Methode at the 2009 Liquorland ‘Top 100’ and now the Air N.Z. Wine Awards.

Deutz Marlborough Cuvee Methode Traditionelle ‘Prestige’ 2005
This is a new release for Deutz Marlborough Cuvee and is seen as the very best expression of Marlborough, being made in one of the best years in a decade for methode production, this being a selection of fruit from the very best producing vineyards owned by Montana. This outstanding wine is 65% Chardonnay and 35% Pinot Noir from vines 8-16 years old from the Renwick and Brancott Estate sites, hand harvested and very gently whole bunch pressed, and the individual parcels fermented separately. Following assemblage, the wine was aged 3-4 years on lees. The resultant wine is 12.5% alc. and carries 12.0 g/l rs. The feature of the wine is its elegant, but very concentrated nose of yeasty autolysis, biscuits and nuts and subtle citrus fruit notes. The layering of aromatics and complexity is sensational. On palate, the wine is one of tautness and concentration. Stonefruits, brioche and fresh dough, with a creamy, mealiness, revealing richness and finishing with great length. The depth of the wine, combined with its poise is quite incredible. While ready to drink now, one can tell that another 2-4 years will be beneficial. This is a stunning sparkling wine.