By Raymond Chan
There’s nothing really secretive about the Waihopi based winery
Spy Valley and its wines, unlike the nearby satellite monitoring station. The output is straight down the middle,
classic Marlborough, and very good with it.
From the first release of the Spy Valley wines in the late 1990s,
everything was spot-on; wines which showed all the best and distinctiveness of
the vignoble, and most importantly realistic pricing. As the vines have matured and winemaking
regimes become set, the Johnson family ownership has prospered, consolidated
and set new goals, in the form of the Envoy range, which highlight individual
portions of the substantial 150 hectare plus vineyard holdings, the wines made
with least intervention. These winemaker ‘play wines’ have proven most
interesting. This tasting with winemaker
Paul Bourgeios showcased the diverse range of wines from Spy Valley, and the
very high quality. Here are my notes on
the wines tasted:
Introduction: Sparkling
Blending options and time are the luxuries that few wineries
have, but are required in the production of sparkling wines. Spy Valley has headed down this path, with
assistance from renowned sparkling specialist Alan McCorkindale, with a first
release with a 2002 vintage. Paul
Bourgeois and Kathy-Lee Bird are up st speed as can be seen by the Spy Valley ‘Echelon’ Methode Traditionnelle
2007 (17.5-/20), at 12.5% alc and
3.0 g/L rs. A blend of 59% Pinot Noir
and 41% Chardonnay, fermented and aged 12 months in old oak before bottling,
and then given 18 months on lees.
Beautiful soft pink-hued in colour, this had a full, powerful nose
overflowing with brioche autolysis aromas and subtle Pinot Noir strawberry
hints. Dry to taste, this was a
bold-flavoured wine, with real depth, robust in yeast autolysis elements and
some aldehyde notes. The acidity gave a
firmness to the structure. This will
soften and deepen in complexity over the next 3-5 years.
Flight One: Riesling
A flight of three Rieslings, varied in age and sweetness,
showing the winery’s ability with the grape. They were presented in ascending
residual sugar. First was the Envoy Marlborough Dry Riesling 2008 (17.5+/20),
at 12.5% and 7.2 g/L rs, from the oldest vines from the Johnson D Block, 5-10%
botrytis, fermented and kept in large oak for 7 months. Light golden hued straw colour, this was full
and toasty on the nose with honey and secondary savoury notes. Dry, this was full on palate with a firmness
and some phenolic texture. Complex
mineral, toast, honey flavours quite funky in expression came through. Long and nuanced. A more wild and food oriented style. Next was the Spy Valley Marlborough Riesling 2009 (18.5-/20), was fermented to
12.5% alc and 12 g/L rs. Pale straw with
lemon hues, this had a lovely fresh nose of florals, limes and lemon meringue. Off dry, this was beautifully vibrant, fresh
and pure with citrusy lemon and lime flavours, along with some honeysuckle on a
fresh, racy palate. Slight textures
carried the long finish. This will keep
5+ years easily. Third was the Envoy Marlborough Riesling 2007 (19.0-/20),
at 9.0% alc and 56.2 g/L rs, fruit from the Johnson D Block, the wine aged 6
months in large oak cuve. Pale straw
yellow in colour, with a light lemon hue, this was very Germanic in style on
the nose with minerals, slate, toasty notes, florals and honey. Medium sweet on palate, this was beautifully
fine and slippery textured, with lush flavours of honey, limes and toasty
kero. A wine of real delicacy with
wonderfully fresh acidity and clean finish.
Very much in the Mosel Spatlese mould, that will age 5-7 years.
Flight Two: Dry Whites
The first of this pair was the Spy Valley Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (18.5-/20), at 13.0%
alc and 3.8 g/L rs. Pale straw yellow in
colour, this had a full, pungent nose with sweet gooseberry aromas, vibrant
fresh and lively. Dry on palate, this
possessed a full-flavoured profile, combining pungent passionfruit, mineral, gooseberry
and herbs, all fulsome, approachable and openly inviting. This covers the spectrum of Marlborough
flavours and will have great general appeal.
Next was the Envoy Marlborough
Chardonnay 2007 (19.0/20), Clone 95 and 96 from Johnson B Block,
hand-picked, WBP, barrel-fermented with native yeasts to 13.5% alc, aged 18
months in 20-30% new oak, and 100% MLF.
Pale straw yellow with youthful green hues. This had a very tight, finely expressed nose
with intense, steely, white stonefuit aromas, backed by beautifully balanced
nutty oak. A wine of great concentration
and depth of mealy, stonefruit flavours, the fineness of texture was enhanced
by the acidity. This had superb
textural subtlety and a very long finish.
Drink over the next 4-6 years.
Flight Three: Rich
Aromatic Whites
Two aromatic wines under the Envoy label. The Envoy
Marlborough Pinot Gris 2009 (17.5+/20), at 15.2% alc and 4.0 g/L rs, from
fruit from the oldest Johnson C Block vines, picked at around 2t/a, a portion
fermented in a large German oak oval, the rest in old French oak, aged 7 months
on lees. Pale straw yellow in colour,
this had a restrained, honied nuanced bouquet of stonefruits and pears, some warm
spirit notes coming through. Dry on
palate, this had excellent fruit richness, matching the alcohol on attack, the
weight and depth on palate a feature.
Very attractive spice and perfume hints came through and gave length of
finish. A wine to match with different
cheeses over the next 5 years. Next was
the Envoy Marlborough Gewurztraminer
2007 (18.0+/20), at 13.5% alc and 19 g/L rs, fruit from the Johnson G
Block, fermented in German oak ovals and aged 7 months on lees. Brilliant lemon straw yellow with a pale edge. This was restrained, with fine intensity of
bouquet, complex hair-oil and earth elements to the honey and exotic fruit
background. Off-dry, this was still
tight and restrained, though with excellent concentration of flavours. Quiet creaming soda and hair-oil, soft
ginger, honey and some rose-petal all present.
A wine with weight, depth and rich texture, to drink over the next 3-4
years.
Flight Four: Red Wines
An interesting trio of red wines, two Pinot Noir and one
Merlot. The Envoy Marlborough Pinot Noir 2006 (17.5-/20), at 13.5% alc, fruit
from 10/5 clone planted in 1993 in the Johnson F Block, destemmed anf native
yeast fermented, the wine aged 18 months in barrel. Pale ruby red in colour with garnet hues,
this had a soft and gentle nose of savoury,