Brown Brothers, as many Australian family-owned wineries are thriving in comparison to the multi-national global liquor producers, due to their focus on quality, innovation and retention of value. Based in Milawa, north-east Victoria, and with four generations of winemaking since 1885, Brown Brothers have been at the forefront of exploring new varieties and the expression of different wine styles. In the neighbouring Rutherglen region, Muscat equates to Liqueur Muscat, the renowned, long-matured, fortified wine that resembles a liquid Christmas cake.

However the Brown Brothers Moscato 2009 is a polar opposite to this. It pays homage to the delightful, artisan Moscato d’Asti wines of Piedmont, north-west Italy, and in fact surpasses them in quality due to its pristine clarity. Made from the Muscat of Alexandria grapes, this is a light and wondrously grapey flavoured wine with a dancing, sparkling, frizzante effect on the palate. Pale coloured, it has nuances of musk and citrus, and the sherbetty palate is sensationally refreshing. At only 5.5% alcohol, it is an extremely gentle wine, accessible to all wine drinkers, and suitable at any time of the day. The 110 g/r residual sugar lends a lusciousness, but is perfectly counterpoised by the acidity, and there is no cloying whatsoever. Served well-chilled, it will be an excellent aperitif, but it will match lighter desserts and cheeses. With a retail price of $17.05, it is a bargain.