As a variety, Syrah is quickly
finding its feet in New
Zealand.
The earlier days saw growers and producers push it too the limit, making
statements of what potential lay ahead.
As Michel Chapoutier, the famous Rhone
vigneron said of his own maturing, “at first I made noise, now I make music”;
this applies to our winemakers now, as they make wines which are more realistic
for drinkers and for business purposes.
There are still many fabulous, exciting, extreme Syrahs being made that
capture our attention and top medal awards, but there are also an increasing
number of more gentle, supple, approachable Syrahs that are much easier to
access and enjoy, and these are wines that do not cost the earth. For wine companies, these are the wines that
sell in good volumes and make friends for the label. 2007 in Hawke’s Bay is proving to be an outstanding
vintage for Syrah. The number of
successes is extremely pleasing. We
offer two of the more ‘realistic’, supple Syrahs for your approval and
enjoyment:
Sileni Estates ‘Cellar Selection’ Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2007
Sileni Estates is a relatively new
player in the Syrah stakes and this has benefitted them in launching wines that
reflect their philosophy from the start.
Sileni’s owner Graeme Avery and winemaker Grant
Edmonds prefer to make wines that go well with food, and
eschew the super-ripe, high alcohol, enormously extracted styles that are bold
and undrinkable for half of their lives.
However, this is certainly Syrah in the lighter Crozes-Hermitage
mould. Limpid purple-red, this is
elegantly fragrant with violets and dark berry fruit aromas, beautifully
enticing spice and pepper bouquet on a soft, slightly savoury, gamey palate. The tannin grip is pulled back and the wine
rests more on its acid freshness, enabling it to be a top match with textured
seafoods as well as the more usual pasta, and red meat dishes. Full-bodied at 13.0% alc, the flavour
spectrum reflects the varied vineyard soil types and maturation in French and
American oak. This will drink well over
the next 4-5 years. Many drinkers will see this wine bridging the gap between
gutsy Syrah and powerful Pinot Noir.
Wild Rock ‘Angels Dust’ Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2007
Craggy Range
is one of our favourite producers of Syrah.
Over the years, they have pulled back on the extreme styles and attained
harmony of expression of grape and place.
The superlative ‘Le Sol’ shows this evolution, as do the other labels
flowing from Craggy
Range. The ‘Wild Rock’ label sits aside from Craggy Range,
but there is no denying its familial heritage.
The ‘Angels Dust’ Syrah shares the dense black-purple colour, ripe black
pepper and black cherry nose, and sweet liquorice and coffee flavours that are
evident in Craggy’s ‘Block 14’ and ‘Le Sol’ wines. It shares the same density and concentration
which speaks of the Gimblett Gravels.
However, this is ‘tamed’ to enable instant gratification and
enjoyment. The wine has 2% Viognier and 2%
Malbec to add breadth, softness, freshness and lift. Still full-bodied at 13.2%, the wine carries
the signature mocha oak component, from 12 months in 25% new French oak, that
sits so comfortably alongside the terroir expression. But the overall package is one of rich
drinkability. This is a wine that is
guaranteed to please over the next 5 years.