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Wine Review

Te Mata's Godzone Rhone 2004-2008

By Raymond Chan

First producing a Syrah in 1992 and a Viognier in 1997, Te Mata Estate is one of the most experienced producers with these exciting Rhone varieties in this country. Te Mata Estate has developed their styles very successfully and their wines from these Rhone varieties have now joined the ranks of the very top level as their ‘Elston’ has with Chardonnay and the ‘Awatea’ and ‘Coleraine’ with the Bordeaux varietals. This is no mean feat and by doing so, places Te Mata as one of this country’s most versatile and best winegrowers in New Zealand.

It was with great pleasure that we had proprietor Nicholas Buck host a tasting of the five most recent releases of the ‘Woodthorpe’ Viognier, now labelled as ‘Zara’; the ‘Woodthorpe’ Syrah, and ‘Bullnose’ Syrah, from vintages 2004 to 2008. These five vintages make a run of extremely high quality harvests that Te Mata and the Hawke’s Bay region has enjoyed immensely, and they have allowed a number of excellent wines come available to keen wine drinkers. This tasting showed the consistency and progress that Te Mata has achieved in that time. All three wines are single-vineyard wines. The Woodthorpe vineyard covers 210 hectares and is situated overlooking the Tutaekuri river in the Dartmoor Valley. The Bullnose vineyard is in the ‘Triangle’ area SW of Hastings and has red metal soils.

The structure of the tasting was to show the three labels from 2004 to 2007 inclusive, then the new 2008 wines as a final flight. Following are my notes on the wines in full vertical order:

‘Woodthorpe’ and ‘Zara’ Viognier

A French clone of Viognier was imported from UC Davis in California and planted in Woodthorpe in 1994. The first wine was made in 1997 and the first commercial release was in 1998. Low and erratic cropping levels have been the norm. The fruit is whole bunch pressed, 80% fermented in 5 y.o. French oak and matured with lees contact for 6-8 months. A small portion, never more than 15% undergoes MLF. Around 500-1,200 cases are made. This flight demonstrated Viognier’s ability to develop and unfold in the glass, and that it is a variety that can age successfully in bottle.
The Te Mata ‘Woodthorpe’ Viognier 2004 (18.0+/20) at 14.5% alc. was light strawyellow-golden, showing some bottle development. Full and broad, this was well-ripened and mature with warm savoury floral and spice aromas and flavours on a full, weighty palate, showing some texture. Some alcohol warmth was noticeable in this integrated wine that was nearing the end of its plateau. The Te Mata ‘Woodthorpe’ Viognier 2005 (17.0+/20) at 14.0% alc. was paler in colour and still quite fresh on bouquet, with florals, minerals, steel and ginger. Some lees work and a touch of reduction showed. Fine, elegant, crisp and piercing on palate, many tasters enjoyed this more than I did. Going up a step in freshness was the Te Mata ‘Woodthorpe’ Viognier 2006 (18.5+/20) at 14.0% alc. Pale straw yellow, this was gentle, balanced and elegant with its floral and apricot aromas. Showing tightness and concentration on palate, this was full of aromatic fruit characters, with a real richness and lift. Citrus notes, peaches and a saltiness. The Te Mata ‘Woodthorpe’ Viognier 2007 (19.0-/20) at 14.0% alc. was showing superbly. Pale straw yellow, this had a fine, tight and elegant nose that was very frsh, yet complex with hints of barrel-fermentation showing. However, fruit was the hero on the palate. Full-flavoured, yet everything in proportion and balance. Harmonious, yet showing lively lift and a beautiful aromatic fruit base. This will improve. The youngest wine, the Te Mata ‘Zara’ Viognier 2008 (18.0+/20) at 14.0% alc. was youthful in colour, with green hues. Elegant on bouquet with a coolness and freshness, this had a little SO2 alongside the citrus and apricot notes, florals and herbs. The fruit is delicate and unevolved at present, but showing promising citrus and mineral elements on a tight, but still weighty palate.

‘Woodthorpe’ Syrah/Viognier

The Te Kauwhata and Clone 470 Syrahs were planted at Woodthorpe in 1999 and 2000 with the intention of combining them in a co-fermentation role with the white Viognier as in the Cote-Rotie wines of the northern Rhone. The first commercial release of this wine was the 2002. Generally, Te Mata have not noticed darker colours as other purport to achieve with this blending, but see greater aromatic lift, with increased freshness and suppleness on the palate. No more than 5% Viognier is utilised. A small amount goes a long way. Woodthorpe Syrah is aged 15 months in new and seasoned French oak. These wines show the greater vintage variation and personality, probably due to young vine age. More consistency is expected with mature plants.
The Te Mata ‘Woodthorpe’ Syrah 2004 (17.5+/20) at 13.5% alc. was deeply coloured with ruby garnet hues. Showing secondary characters on bouquet with a savoury side to the black berry fruits and spices, this had come together well. Softened with integration on palate, this had riper flavours of dark berry fruits, spices and pepper with liquorice, jam and compote nuances. However the wine still showed fresh acidity. The Te Mata ‘Woodthorpe’ Syrah 2005 (17.5-/20) at 13.0% alc. was light ruby red in colour. Very elegant and very aromatic, this had a concentrated white pepper and red fruit bouquet. Tight and a little narrowed on palate, the lifted aromatic nature and pepper was the feature of the wine. Fine-grained tannins, some acidity adding to the crisper style, but good intensity nevertheless. One of the more popular wines of the flight, some tasters seeing the fruit expression as being perfect. As with the Viognier wines, there was a distinct jump in quality with the next vintage. Also very highly regarded by the group of tasters was the Te Mata ‘Woodthorpe’ Syrah 2006 (18.5-/20) at 13.0% alc. It was youthful in appearance with purple hues to the dark ruby red, and and a dense, deep and concentrated ripe dark berry fruit nose with spices, black pepper, chocolate and a toasty oak nuance. A little shyer on palate than expected, the wine had real weight with harmony of extraction and fruit richness. The Te Mata ‘Woodthorpe’ Syrah 2007 (19.0-/0) at 13.0% alc was dark , deep and youthfully coloured and had an amazingly redolent bouquet, beautifully perfumed with lifted florals and black pepper. Rich and sweet on palate, the vibrancy of fruit was beautiful, and the black berried fruit, pepper and floral notes all intermingled. Good tannin extraction gave this wine weight, and this

The Products...
TE MATA VIOGNIER WOODTHORPE 07
Te Mata Viognier Woodthorpe 07
Te Mata ‘Woodthorpe’ Viognier 2007 (19.0-/20) at 14.0% alc. was showing su...
$29.40 750 MLS
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