By Raymond Chan
First
producing a Syrah in 1992 and a Viognier in 1997, Te Mata Estate is one of the
most experienced producers with these exciting Rhone
varieties in this country. Te Mata
Estate has developed their styles very successfully and their wines from these
Rhone varieties have now joined the ranks of the very top level as their
‘Elston’ has with Chardonnay and the ‘Awatea’ and ‘Coleraine’ with the Bordeaux varietals. This is no mean feat and by doing so, places
Te Mata as one of this country’s most versatile and best winegrowers in New Zealand.
It was with
great pleasure that we had proprietor Nicholas Buck
host a tasting of the five most recent releases of the ‘Woodthorpe’ Viognier, now
labelled as ‘Zara’; the ‘Woodthorpe’ Syrah, and ‘Bullnose’ Syrah, from vintages
2004 to 2008. These five vintages make a
run of extremely high quality harvests that Te Mata and the Hawke’s Bay region
has enjoyed immensely, and they have allowed a number of excellent wines come
available to keen wine drinkers. This
tasting showed the consistency and progress that Te Mata has achieved in that
time. All three wines are
single-vineyard wines. The Woodthorpe
vineyard covers 210 hectares and is situated overlooking the Tutaekuri river in
the Dartmoor Valley.
The Bullnose vineyard is in the ‘Triangle’ area SW of Hastings and has
red metal soils.
The structure
of the tasting was to show the three labels from 2004 to 2007 inclusive, then
the new 2008 wines as a final flight.
Following are my notes on the wines in full vertical order:
‘Woodthorpe’ and ‘Zara’ Viognier
A French
clone of Viognier was imported from UC Davis in California and planted in Woodthorpe in
1994. The first wine was made in 1997
and the first commercial release was in 1998.
Low and erratic cropping levels have been the norm. The fruit is whole bunch pressed, 80%
fermented in 5 y.o. French oak and matured with lees contact for 6-8
months. A small portion, never more than
15% undergoes MLF. Around 500-1,200
cases are made. This flight demonstrated Viognier’s ability to develop and
unfold in the glass, and that it is a variety that can age successfully in
bottle.
The Te Mata ‘Woodthorpe’ Viognier 2004
(18.0+/20) at 14.5% alc. was light strawyellow-golden, showing some bottle
development. Full and broad, this was
well-ripened and mature with warm savoury floral and spice aromas and flavours
on a full, weighty palate, showing some texture. Some alcohol warmth was noticeable in this
integrated wine that was nearing the end of its plateau. The Te
Mata ‘Woodthorpe’ Viognier 2005 (17.0+/20) at 14.0% alc. was paler in
colour and still quite fresh on bouquet, with florals, minerals, steel and
ginger. Some lees work and a touch of
reduction showed. Fine, elegant, crisp
and piercing on palate, many tasters enjoyed this more than I did. Going up a step in freshness was the Te Mata ‘Woodthorpe’ Viognier 2006
(18.5+/20) at 14.0% alc. Pale straw
yellow, this was gentle, balanced and elegant with its floral and apricot
aromas. Showing tightness and
concentration on palate, this was full of aromatic fruit characters, with a
real richness and lift. Citrus notes, peaches
and a saltiness. The Te Mata ‘Woodthorpe’ Viognier 2007
(19.0-/20) at 14.0% alc. was showing superbly.
Pale straw yellow, this had a fine, tight and elegant nose that was very
frsh, yet complex with hints of barrel-fermentation showing. However, fruit was the hero on the
palate. Full-flavoured, yet everything
in proportion and balance. Harmonious,
yet showing lively lift and a beautiful aromatic fruit base. This will improve. The youngest wine, the Te Mata ‘Zara’ Viognier 2008 (18.0+/20) at 14.0% alc. was youthful
in colour, with green hues. Elegant on
bouquet with a coolness and freshness, this had a little SO2 alongside the
citrus and apricot notes, florals and herbs.
The fruit is delicate and unevolved at present, but showing promising
citrus and mineral elements on a tight, but still weighty palate.
‘Woodthorpe’ Syrah/Viognier
The Te
Kauwhata and Clone 470 Syrahs were planted at Woodthorpe in 1999 and 2000 with
the intention of combining them in a co-fermentation role with the white
Viognier as in the Cote-Rotie wines of the northern Rhone. The first commercial release of this wine was
the 2002. Generally, Te Mata have not
noticed darker colours as other purport to achieve with this blending, but see
greater aromatic lift, with increased freshness and suppleness on the palate. No more than 5% Viognier is utilised. A small amount goes a long way. Woodthorpe Syrah is aged 15 months in new and
seasoned French oak. These wines show
the greater vintage variation and personality, probably due to young vine
age. More consistency is expected with
mature plants.
The Te Mata ‘Woodthorpe’ Syrah 2004
(17.5+/20) at 13.5% alc. was deeply coloured with ruby garnet hues. Showing secondary characters on bouquet with
a savoury side to the black berry fruits and spices, this had come together
well. Softened with integration on
palate, this had riper flavours of dark berry fruits, spices and pepper with
liquorice, jam and compote nuances.
However the wine still showed fresh acidity. The Te
Mata ‘Woodthorpe’ Syrah 2005 (17.5-/20) at 13.0% alc. was light ruby red in
colour. Very elegant and very aromatic, this
had a concentrated white pepper and red fruit bouquet. Tight and a little narrowed on palate, the
lifted aromatic nature and pepper was the feature of the wine. Fine-grained tannins, some acidity adding to
the crisper style, but good intensity nevertheless. One of the more popular wines of the flight,
some tasters seeing the fruit expression as being perfect. As with the Viognier wines, there was a
distinct jump in quality with the next vintage.
Also very highly regarded by the group of tasters was the Te Mata ‘Woodthorpe’ Syrah 2006
(18.5-/20) at 13.0% alc. It was youthful
in appearance with purple hues to the dark ruby red, and and a dense, deep and
concentrated ripe dark berry fruit nose with spices, black pepper, chocolate
and a toasty oak nuance. A little shyer
on palate than expected, the wine had real weight with harmony of extraction
and fruit richness. The Te Mata ‘Woodthorpe’ Syrah 2007
(19.0-/0) at 13.0% alc was dark , deep and youthfully coloured and had an
amazingly redolent bouquet, beautifully perfumed with lifted florals and black
pepper. Rich and sweet on palate, the
vibrancy of fruit was beautiful, and the black berried fruit, pepper and floral
notes all intermingled. Good tannin
extraction gave this wine weight, and this will keep well, another 6-8 years,
but it drinks excellently now. A little
lighter was the Te Mata ‘Woodthorpe’
Syrah 2008 (18.0/20) at 13.5% alc.
Medium deep ruby red with purple hues, this was soft with gentle
raspberry and red plum aromas, and attractively primary with nuances of spices. On palate, quite balanced and very much in
balance in a medium-weighted style, soft supple tannins and lovely sweetness of
red berry and peppery fruit. Reasonably
forward drinking, but 4-6 years cellaring possible.
‘Bullnose’ Syrah
The Bullnose
vineyard, in the centre of the ‘Triangle’ was planted to the Te Kauwhata Syrah
clone in 1990, with the first vintage of the wine in 1992. The inclusion of three other French clones of
Syrah imported or acquired, then propagated since then was finally made with
the 2004 vintage. ‘Bullnose’ Syrah is
100% Syrah. The fruit is totally
destemmed and aged the wine aged 16 months in new and seasoned French oak
barriques. With vine age at around 20
years, the wine is very consistent and rides out vintage variation more so than
the ‘Woodthorpe’ Syrah.
The Te Mata ‘Bullnose’ Syrah 2004 (18.0/20)
at 13.5% alc. was just starting to show orange on edge of its ruby colour. A little dumb on bouquet, this had savoury
dark berry fruit aromas with a little game and leather showing. Rich and meaty on palate the savoury fruit
was developing complexities of flavour and the palate becoming integrated and
rounded. There was still good depth and
concentration. The Te Mata ‘Bullnose’ Syrah 2005 (18.5/20) at 13.0% alc. had youthful,
purple hues to its colour. The nose was
full of concentrated black fruits, black pepper, nuts and minerals and dark
chocolate, showing the ripeness. Firm
and concentrated on palate, this was still vibrantly fruit with violet and
peppery lift, and excellent freshness.
This should keep well over the next 7-9 years. The Te
Mata ‘Bullnose’ Syrah 2006 (19.0+/20) at 13.0% alc. was outstanding. Medium deep ruby red in colour, this had a
beautifully perfumed nose, intense and rich, with striking aromatics of red and
black fruits white and black pepper, and spices. On palate, the wine was rich and lush, with
superb tannin balance to the sweetness of the fruit. Fine textured and all in proportion. The Te
Mata ‘Bullnose’ Syrah 2007 (19.0/20) at 13.5% alc. was youthfully purple in
colour. Intense, fresh, with lifted
perfumes of white and black pepper, there were complex savoury nuances to the
bouquet. Full, lively and fresh with
rich boysenberry like flavours, this had a tight structure with considerable
tannin extract and concentration. The
wine will cellar for a decade easily.
(Our bottle may have had some cork taint, and a better bottle may have
merited a better score. Other tasters
rated the other bottle very highly.) The
Te Mata ‘Bullnose’ Syrah 2008
(18.5-/20) at 13.5% alc. was dark coloured and displayed black fruits with
subtle meat and game nuances with spices on the nose. Fresh, lively and in fact a little raw at
present, dark red plums, black fruits and spices showed on palate with obvious
tannin grip on with even, flowing line and length. This should come together well over the next
6-9 years.