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Wine Review

Te Whare Ra

By Raymond Chan
One of the pioneers of the Marlborough region Te Whare Ra was set up by Allen and Joyce Hogan who planted some of the oldest Gewurztraminer and Riesling vines in their home block in Renwick. It was this resource which clinched the deal for third owners Jason and Anna Flowerday to take over the operation from the Smith family in late 2003. They represent the new and youthful face of Marlborough and their stamp on Te Whare Ra has seen the wines become tighter, cleaner, more ageworthy, and indeed better in my books. Jason and Anna attribute much of the quality to the vineyard site, vine age and foresight of the Hogans. But as modest people, they would. We were delighted to have Anna Flowerday present a range of new and older Te Whare Ra wines at Regional. It was their first showing there. Here are my notes on the wines tasted:

Flight One: Sauvignon Blanc


The fruit for this label is based on the Flowerday family vines in the Awatere Valley with 10% from their new plantings in Renwick. The Te Whare Ra Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (18.0-/20) at 12.5% alc . was very youthful in appearance and tight and minerally, somewhat shy and showing a little SO2. Typically Awatere, the steeliness is almost a preservative. As a comparison, the Te Whare Ra Sauvignon Blanc 2006 (18.0/20) was more mellow on palate with a very pleasing weight, fullness and rounded texture, showing the benefits of bottle age. A touch of breadth and asparagus aromatics did not detract.

Flight Two: Riesling


Riesling is a particular passion for Anna, who originally hails from the McLaren Vale. Her stint at Leasingham in the Clare honed her love of working with and enjoying drinking the wines from this variety. The Te Whara Ra Riesling ‘D’ 2008 (18.0/20), made from the old vines on the home block. Fermented to 12.0% alc and a dry 6.9 g/l rs, this was a steely, austere, mineral and limey style that had fruit depth and a touch of grip from the extract. A style that should age very well, up to a decade. The Te Whara Ra Riesling ‘M’ 2008 (18.5-/20) was made in a Germanic style with 9.2% alc and 35 g/l rs, from young vines. Softer, rounder, with luscious honey, floral, blossom notes, this was very approachable, but had a core of concentration that will ensure good life ahead. Unfortunately under 120 cases made. Anna and Jason – make more! Then on to an older dry example, the Te Whara Ra Riesling 2005 (19.0/20) with 12.0% alc, 6.5 g/l rs and a pH of 3.1. A little more colour, but exquisite finesse and purity of minerals steel and toasty development. Incredible finesse was the hallmark of this beauty, that should keep very well.

Flight Three: Aromatic Whites


An important variety, Te Whare Ra have entered the Pinot Gris scene with a creditable effort. The Te Whare Ra Pinot Gris 2008 (17.5/20) at 14.2% alc was 70% S/S and 30% fermented in old French oak with a little wild yeast and lees stirring complexity to 7.3 g/l rs. A straw hue to the colour, this had classic stonefruit and pear aromas and flavours on a full, weighty palate. A little alcohol heat was noticeable. However, it was the Te Whare Ra ‘Toru’ 2008 (17.0+/20) that was a hit with the group of tasters. A blend of three varieties (Toru meaning ‘three’ in Maori) – Gewurztraminer, Riesling and Pinot Gris, this was 13.8% alc and 10.4 g/l rs. A relatively gentle wine, this showed an excellent balance of componentry where all three varieties expressed themselves in a layered way. Steely, crisp,
minerally acidity, some floral spice notes and rounded, but definite textures and weight all combined well. An all-purpose wine.

Flight Four: Gewurztraminer


For many people, Gewurztraminer is the flagship varietal for Te Whare Ra. The wine is based on 14 rows on the old home block, planted in 1979. We were treated to a three vintage vertical. The Te Whara Ra Gewurztraminer 2008 (18.5-/20) at 14.5% alc and 14.0 g/l rs is typical of where the wine sits. Light straw colour, this has lovely, tight and classy, floral and rose-petal aromatics and an off dry palate with a little honey and spice to the floral. Still restrained with a mineral note, a touch of oiliness started to show. Lovely crisp purity here that will develop. The Te Whare Ra Gewurztraminer 2005 (18.5+/20) had more colour showing, a hint of gold, but on nose and palate the wine showed greater breadth, richness and secondary development of ginger and spices. A more open style, a touch of reduction did not detract. Softened, and even a degree of elegance, again from a mineral note. Many tasters saw the Te Whare Ra ‘Duke of Marlborough’ Gewurztraminer 2002 (18.5/20) as being a different style with its higher residual sugar component. Despite the wine being more medium, there was a cut and crispness in its expression. More yellow-golden, this had an intriguing nose showing classic hair-oil and creaming soda development nuances on a more complex, layered palate. Again, a hint of reduction, adding a classical bitter cut, as Gewurz can do. The crisp, cutting minerality common to all three vintages may be an expression of the site?

Flight Five: Pinot Noir


From 10 y.o. vines, planted by the Smith family, this varietal is increasing in interest every vintage. The Te Whare Ra Pinot Noir 2006 (17.0+/20) at 14.5% alc was showing a little garnet on edge, and was soft and savoury with well-ripened red fruit aromas and flavours. More medium weighted, there was a fruit-cake and port note indicating a touch or raisining. However the structure was one of suppleness, enabling approachability now. A step up in concentration from the small berries typical of the vintage, the Te Whare Ra Pinot Noir 2007 (18.0/20) had some purple hues, and a ripe, sweet nose and dark berry fruited palate with fine, firm extraction. Though showing a touch of reduction, this was a wine with good body and weight. The clones employed are 10/5, 113, 114, 115, 667 and 777, some whole bunch, and the wine spent 12 months in 30% new French barriques.

Flight Six: Sweet Wine


Te Whare Ra has a top name for their sweet wines. Allen Hogan was ahead of his time in their making. The Flowerdays have continued this legacy with this wine, the Te Whare Ra Noble Riesling 2007 (18.5/20). At 11.0% alc and 157 g/l rs, this combines the wonderful citrus zest and floral aromatics of Riesling as well as its crisp, cutting acidity, with the richer beeswax, marmalade and apricot notes from the botrytis. Still tight with a grip from the fruit weight, this should improve by becoming more integrated and develop more complex characters over the next 5 years.
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Staff Recommendations

DAVID

Easter weekend I flew up to Auckland and had a great time visiting family. I made sure I went to Maison Vauron, a must if you enjoy French wines and also Galbraiths to try a few craft beers.

RICHARD

Roast Chicken for dinner evidently. Which Kumeu River Chardy shall I choose?
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