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Wine Review

John Forrest Colllection - The Second Release

By Raymond Chan
The inaugural release of the John Forrest Collection wines was at the start of July last year. The release of the wines was of considerable interest. It is without any doubt that the John Forrest Collection wines were of superior quality and worthy of being labeled as wines as good as veteran winemaker John Forrest could produce. This first release certainly showed the exemplary nature of the fruit from which they were made. The relatively high pricing was based on their small production and rarity value as well as a statement of position. With the first release wines, John pushed the boundaries of style, which is acknowledged as very personal.

So it was with much interest that we approached the second release of the John Forrest Collection wines in July this year. Quality was expected to be at the top level. But was pricing going to differ, and would the wines continue in their novel and uncompromising approach to style? As it turned out, yes, the pricing changed, some wines becoming more expensive, and others less so. And yes, the styles of the wines remained innovative, reflecting John’s preference to allow the fruit to set the style.

To mark this second release, John conducted the tasting at Regional Wines with canapés designed (and served) by Rex Morgan of Citron restaurant to match the wines. Here are my notes on the wines:

John Forrest Collection ‘The White’ 2006
14.0% alc, 5.4 g/L rs, Hawke’s Bay Viognier, Marlborough Sauvignon, Riesling, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Gewurztraminer and North Otago Pinot Gris, 550 cases made. Youthful pale straw green colour. Very fresh, clean and aromatic bouquet with florals and spices, good depth and vibrancy. Viognier, Riesling and Pinot Gris identifiable. Dry and crisp wine with plenty of zestiness. Lovely aromatic character of florals and spice allied to excellent body and weight. Herby Sauvignon Blanc is noticeable. Intriguing wine. 18.5-/20

John Forrest Collection ‘The White’ 2005
13.9% alc. 5.8 g/L rs, Hawke’s Bay Viognier, Marlborough Sauvignon, Riesling, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Gewurztraminer and North Otago Pinot Gris, 450 cases made. Fullish straw yellow colour. Soft, full and weighty nose with tropical fruit and some bottle-age aromatics, a little shy in expression. Dry, full and beginning to integrate. Gentle and delicate flavours, but there is vinous concentration and power through the palate. Chardonnay-like on this showing, some alcohol warmth apparent. 18.0+/20

Rex Morgan’s Food Match: Herb crusted, thyme pressed chicken with liver on pesto crostini
The 2006 ‘White’ has excellent cut with the chicken and liver, the aromatics and freshness of the wine comes through well. Goes well. The 2005 ‘White’ has an excellent weight balance with the food components and the interaction enrichens both the wine and the food. An excellent match.

John Forrest Collection Wairau Valley Chardonnay 2004
13.9% alc, 5 g/L rs, 100% BF in 1 and 2 y.o. oak, 650 cases made. Light straw yellow colour with golden hints. Full, rich mealy nose with complex nutty bottle age and dried herb components, all very harmonious. Rich and lush on palate with mealy, tropical fruit flavours. Great power and concentration, still tightly bound, there is alcohol noticeable. Lees and toasty oak add dimension. The acidity is fresh and textures very fine-grained. This will drink superbly over the next 3-4 years. 18.5+/20

Rex Morgan’s Food Match: Salmon mousse with cake spice mayonnaise and hazelnuts
The salmon enhances the wine’s acidity, the nuttiness of the wine and hazelnuts combine well and the alcoholic power of the wine is moderated. More complex flavours result from the interaction. An excellent match.

John Forrest Collection Wairau Valley Riesling 2006
12.5% alc, 11.9 g/L rs, fruit from young Wairau River gravels and old Brancott river terraces. Very pale straw green colour, very youthful in appearance. Well-ripened tropical fruits, limes and minerals on the nose, this is very refined, showing great delicacy – more so than the 2005 vintage. Dryish on palate, this has considerable weight and textures, the sweetness adding to the richness of the fruit. There is plenty of acidity giving good cut. Lovely limes and florals and hints of spice and honey. Medium length finish. 18.0+/20

Rex Morgan’s Food Match: Prawn cocktail scented with lime and tropical salsa
An excellent match, the wine combines superbly with all components, the delicate weight of the wine in tune with the prawn, and the richness of the wine tying it all together. Acidity provides perfect cut to the texture of the prawn.

John Forrest Collection Waitaki Valley Pinot Noir 2006
14.1% alc, fruit from the southern side of the Waitaki River, 200 cases made. Pale ruby red colour with some purple hues. Fresh, bright and vibrant aromatic nose with cherries and thyme herbs, well-ripened and voluminous in bouquet expression. Fine-grained and tightly structured, this has luscious cherry flavours along with herb complexities. Medium weighted, this is an elegant wine. A little alcohol is noticeable. But a wine of very good balance. Cheery and cherryish. 18.5/20

Rex Morgan’s Food Match: Horopito seared ostrich with cherry jam
Flavours of the wine and cherry jam work well, but the weight and texture of the ostrich is a little too much for the wine to carry or cut through. Some good spice complexities enhanced with the herbal nuances of the wine. A fair match.

John Forrest Collection Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2005
14.0% alc, fruit from the Cornerstone Vineyard, Gimblett Gravels. 200 cases made. Dark, deep, black hearted ruby red with purple hues. Very ripe, dark berry, blackcurrant and cassis aromas with spices and pepper, nuances of meat and game giving complexity. Full-bodied wine, tight in construction and very fine-grained, this exudes great class and power. Though some alcohol is noticeable, the concentration and density is stunning. Beautifully spicy, there is nutmeg and white pepper that adds to the aromatics and interest. Acidity is spot-on for freshness and life ahead. 19.0-/20

Rex Morgan’s Food Match: Spiced cervena carpaccio sandwich with plum dust
Plum dust lifted the spice and pepper in the wine, but the depth of flavour of the cervena a little too powerful for the tightness of the wine. Texturally well matched, however. A good pairing.

John Forrest Collection Gimblett Gravels Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
14.0% alc, fruit from the Cornerstone vineyard, Gimblett Gravels. 300 cases made. Deeply coloured dark ruby red. Tighly bound, densely concentrated aromas of classical blackcurrant fruit, pure, fine and quite restrained. Lush on palate with a richness and sweetness of fruit. The extraction level is high, giving restraint and a refined structure. Cassis flavours, this has power and depth and sh
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