Tempranillo is back! The world is
fascinated again with this Spanish variety after a period of poor examples in
the 1970s. An early ripening grape (temprano meaning early in Spanish), it
is often said the wine from it has the fruitiness of Pinot Noir with the
firmness and structure of Cabernet Sauvignon, without the acidity; it is
related to neither. The Tempranillo benchmark
wines of Rioja and Ribera del Duero are increasingly popular with wine drinkers
world-wide. These two regions now have
an unequalled track record with Tempranillo in all of its guises and
facets. Modern Rioja wine came through
the importation of winemakers and techniques from Bordeaux in the mid 1800s. The high altitude region of Ribera del Duero
did not become recognised until the 1970s, despite the fame of Vega Sicilia from
the 1860s. The diversity of wines from
both regions has provided a raft of interesting wines, from younger,
fruit-driven Crianzas to the long wood-aged Reservas and Gran Reservas. With it has come arrange of prices too, from
affordable to ‘rare and fine’ expensive collectible examples. We offer two wines, technically Crianza, with
at least 12 months maturation in oak:
CUNE Rioja Crianza 2006
The Compania Vinícola del Norte de España, or CUNE (pronounced Coon-ay) is
one of the best of the traditional Rioja bodegas. Its extremely high standards ensure classic
wines even though quantities can be considerable. This Crianza, from a very good vintage, is
80% Tempranillo and 20% Garnacha and Mazuelo, all hand-picked, from the Rioja
Alta sub-region. To retain aromatics,
the fruit was relatively cool-fermented at 26-28°C to 13.7% alc and the wine
aged in American oak casks for 12 months maturation. Medium ruby red in colour, this is
unmistakably Rioja with its soft red fruit aromas and flavours evenly matched
by cedar and vanilla American oak cask characters. The palate is elegant and open with
moderately drying tannins. This is
classic Rioja with the Tempranillo more in the Pinot Noir-like expression. This will be an excellent match with
Mediterranean food over the next 4-6 years.
Torres ‘Celeste’ Ribera del Duero 2006
Based in the Penedes, the world famous Torres family has been at the
forefront of innovation in Spain. To this end, they have expanded and now have
wine from the exciting and emerging regions of Rioja, Ribera del Duero and Priorat. The 2006 ‘Celeste’ is the fourth vintage of
Torres foray into the Ribera del Duero region and it continues the exceptional
quality and value ratio that all the previous releases provided. Made from 100% Tempranillo (known as Tinto
Fino) from sites at an altitude of 895 metres, this was fermented at 28-30° C
to 14.0% alc, the wine then aged in French and American oak for 12 months. Dark ruby red in colour, this is a highly
concentrated and intense wine packed with dark berry fruit aromas and flavours. The oak adds a spice and nutty note, and sits
behind the fruit, but comes through carrying the wine’s line and length. Fine-grained tannins wine ensure good
cellaring for 6-8 years. Drink with roasted
red meat and game.