There have been a couple of North Island Chardonnays
released fairly recently that have caught my eye. Aside from the sheer quality
of these two, both share more than a nod to the Old World.
Both are new labels from respected wineries, one is only the second release and
the other its third.
Firstly, from the Church Road Winery is the
latest vintage of their flagship ‘Tom’ 2009. Under Pernod Ricard’s ownership
the wines from Church Road
have come on in leaps and bounds and now must be regarded as one of the very
top Hawke’s Bay wineries.
This is only the second release of this
wine, the first being the much heralded 2006.
The wine is 73% Clone 95 with the remainder
being Clone 15. Harvested at 22° brix, it is a relatively modest 13% alcohol
(the 2006 was 14.5%). After barrel fermentation with wild yeasts it was aged on
the lees for 14 months with fortnightly stirring in 35% new French oak before
being finished in tank on light lees for another 8 months.
A lovely straw/yellow in colour the nose immediately
showed that this is a serious wine. Overlaying the ripe stonefruit characters
were cashew and hazelnuts, fresh baked bread and mineral hints, more savoury
than fruity. These flavours carried through to the palate which is powerful,
quite broad with superb texture, weight and length. This is very impressive
wine, the winery thinks it will cellar for five to seven years but I would
think it will easily last longer than that.
Secondly was Escarpment’s premium
Chardonnay, Kupe 2009. At the annual Escarpment release the Pinots are the ones
that many look forward to, perhaps overlooking the quality of the Chardonnay.
They should not – and they certainly refocus once they try them. This is the third vintage of the Kupe
Chardonnay. It is all Clone 95 from the McCrenor Vineyard. 100% barrel
fermented in 30% new oak with wild yeasts, aged 12 months on lees. 14.1% alc.
Lighter in colour than the Tom, it too leans
toward savoury rather than fruity. Notes of toasted nuts, minerals and
stonefruit with good concentration. The palate has a marvellous textural quality,
powerful and elegant and with great length. Super stylish wine that will cellar
beautifully. Perhaps Kupe is a Puligny to Tom’s Meursault?
Tom and Kupe, they're a top pair of Kiwi mates
and you’ll really enjoy their company over the next few years.
Alastair Morris