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Wine Review

Tour Of Italy

By Raymond Chan
With over a million hectares of vines, Italy is the world’s largest producer of wine. However, it is not the quantity of wine that Italy makes that is the feature, but rather the amazing diversity. The wines can reflect the cool mountainous regions to the north, through to the hot, Mediterranean climate of the south and every grade between. Adding to the uniqueness is the multitude of indigenous grape varieties, many of which are unfamiliar to most of the world’s wine enthusiasts. But it is the flair, independent attitude, propensity to display style, with passion that sets Italy apart from any other wine producer. Here, tradition and innovation sit side by side in harmony. Italy is the most exciting country for wine. Thus, our Vinous Tour of Italy, conducted by Rick Lindsay was a sell-out event. The wines chosen ranged from throughout the country, and were very interesting. Rick provided a succinct overview of the IGT, DOC and DOCG systems which provide a framework of classification of Italian wines. Here are my notes on the wines tasted:

Flight One: Northern Italian White Wines


A sparkling, the Canella Prosecco di Conegliano NV (17.0+/20) from Veneto, introduced the tasting. Made wholly from Prosecco grapes, Charmat fermented, this was a delightfully frothy, crisp, clean and dry sparkling with attractive Riesling-like floral notes. Gentle, light, and simply refreshing, this was an attractive, not too serious bubbles that will suit any occasion. Next was the Bollini Pinot Grigio Trentino 2007 (17.5/20) that was not your expected lean, crisp, bone-dry, minerally style, but a wine that had a roundness, weight and up-front stonefruit aromas and flavours. This was cleverly done in a modern, international dry Pinot Gris style that will be widely accepted.

Flight Two: Southern Italian Red Wines


The first red was a Neil Empson selection of the Veneto-based Lagaria winery making a wine from Sicilian fruit. The Lagaria Merlot Sicilia 2007 (16.5/20) was a well-made, red berry fruited red with satisfying warmth and juiciness, but one that avoided excess alcohol and over-jamminess. Easy-drinking without a great deal of extraction an tannin, this surprised with its flavour. A more serious wine, the A-Mano Primitivo 2006 (17.5-/20) from old vine Primitivo vines in Puglia, has plenty of savoury, earthy, dark berry aromas and flavours, on a juicy, but reasonably ruggedly structured palate. Ripeness and accessible flavours were the key here, and not the fruit-bomb-like super-ripe releases seen under this label in the past.

Flight Three: Elegant Central Sangiovese-Based Reds


A very evenly preferred flight of wines, both based on Sangiovese, but one traditionally styled, the other a modern interpretation. The Zerbina ‘Torre di Ceparano’ Sangiovese di Romagna 2004 (17.5+/20) at 14.2% alc, and 94% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot and 1% Ancellotta, and aged 18 months in 50% new French oak was indeed an elegantly sized wine showing a lovely balance of savoury cherry-earthy aromas and flavours on a balanced and harmonious, finely extracted and drying palate. Tightly bound still, this will have the ability to keep well. More in the primary fruited style, the Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2006 (17.0+/20) from Tuscany, at 13.8% alc, made from 90% Sangiovese, 5% Malvasia Nera and Colorino, plus 5% Merlot, aged 12 months in French barriques, was darker ruby in colour, with bright cherry and berry fruit aromas laced with fresh herbs on a more youthful, reasonably firmish palate. This will mellow out and should be an attractive wine earlier than later.

Flight Four: Serious Central Italian Reds


This flight of more complex and/or structured wines was arguably the highlight for the tasters. First up was the Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2005 (18.0-/20) from Tuscany, at 13.5% alc, from 90% Sangiovese Prunolo Gentile and 10% Canaiolo Nero and Mammolo, aged two years in French oak. From a rain-affected year, this was a little more forward in colour with garnet hues, but the wine displayed lovely, integrated savoury berry aromas and secondary complexities on a rounded palate of well-ripened red berry fruit and layered savoury flavours and rounded tannins. A most attractive drink. Next was the biggest wine of the tasting, the Fonterutoli Chianti Classico ‘Castello’ 2001 (19.0/20) from Tuscany. At 13.75% alc, this was 85% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot, aged 16-18 months in French barriques. Black red and impenetrable in colour, this had a high-toned, lifted nose of black cherries, herbs and oak, full, intense and substantial. A wine of great concentration and extremely high extraction but very fine-grained in texture, this is a wine for the future, 10-15 years at least. Some tasters found the oaking levels excessive, but most felt this had great potential. The final wine of the flight was the Zerbina ‘Marzieno ‘Ravenna Rosso’ 2003 (17.5-/20) from Emilia Romagna. At 14.05% alc, this was 61% Sangiovese, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot and 3% Syrah, this was aged 13 months in 70% new French barriques. Full ruby red in colour, this had very ripe dark berry and plum aromas and flavours showing the warmth of the vintage. Though with fragrance, there were also oak, port-like and raisin nuances adding great sweetness to the palate. A little alcoholic heat showing, this finished on its extraction.

Flight Four: Piedmont Wines


A most intriguing flight of wines, all from Piedmont, and all very different in style, the three made by the Vietti family. First was the Vietti Barbera d’Asti ‘Tre Vigne’ 2005 (17.5-/20) at 13.5% alc and 100% Barbera, aged 12 months in French barriques. Dark rubr-garnet coloured, this was full of rich, game, berry and tarry aromas, the bouquet lifted a little by a touch of volatility. The palate displayed flavours echoing the nose, with the fruit freshened by healthy acidity and a slightly drying extraction and medium length finish. Next was the Vietti Nebbiolo Langhe ‘Perbacco’ 2005 (17.0+/20), at 14.0% alc, made from 100% Nebbiolo, essentially declassified Barolo, aged in French barriques for 10 months then a further 16 months in large Slovenian casks. Lighter ruby-garnet in colour, this was an ethereal wine with fine dried floral aromas with a little VA lift. Dry on palate with considerable extraction, the fruit was understated, leaving the wine a firm one with a degree of austerity. The final wine was the Vietti Moscato d’Asti ‘La Cascinetta’ 2006 (17.5+/20), at 5.5% alc, this is 100% Moscato Bianco stop fermented. Very pale and youthfully fresh in appearance, this had classic herby Muscat and grapey raisin aromas and flavours. Sweet and with gentle, but fine effervescence, this was gentle and soft, easy and approachable, but still retained good freshness. A very more-ish wine indeed.
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The Products...
CANELLA PROSECCO DI CONEGLIANO NV
Canella Prosecco Di Conegliano Nv
A sparkling, the Canella Prosecco di Conegliano NV (17.0+/20) from Vene...
$30.55 750 MLS
More...
FONTERUTOLI CHIANTI CLASSICO 06
Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 06
More in the primary fruited style, the Fonterutoli Chianti Classic...
$50.20 750 MLS
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Staff Recommendations

DAVID

Easter weekend I flew up to Auckland and had a great time visiting family. I made sure I went to Maison Vauron, a must if you enjoy French wines and also Galbraiths to try a few craft beers.

RICHARD

Roast Chicken for dinner evidently. Which Kumeu River Chardy shall I choose?
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