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Wine Review

Vinoptima Gewurztraminer 2003 - 2007

By Raymond Chan
It was a very special evening, as Nick Nobilo recounted stories from his long career and life in wine, following the playing of an episode of ‘The Winemakers’, a series of television features on the New Zealand wine industry, made in 1985. This episode featured the pioneering Nobilo family, then one of the larger and most progressive wine companies at the time. To share insights to the history of our then fledgling industry and the growth of viticulture and winemaking set the background to the experience, passion and drive that Nick exuded, as he described how his Vinoptima project came to life.

Vinoptima is thus the result of a dream of over nearly three decades and the vision to create great Gewurztraminer, from grapes grown in the Ormond district of Gisborne. Nick Nobilo has committed himself to the singular purpose of growing and making a most individual wine that will be appreciated throughout the world. I think he has begun to achieve this with his Vinoptima Gewurztraminer, as demonstrated by his special vertical tasting of every vintage he has bottled, held at Regional Wines. Here are my notes on the wines:

Pre-Taster


A ‘blast from the past’, while we viewed the television, the appropriately named Reminisce Gisborne Muller-Thurgau 2003 (16.5+/20) was made to put the Vinoptima winery through its paces before the Gewurztraminer came in. For a five year old Muller-Thurgau, this was in remarkable condition. A little more golden than desirable, it was fullish and broad with honey and toast nuances along with the slight vegetal note that the variety takes on with bottle-age. Soft, gentle, mellow, without the acid zing, but by no means coarse or flabby. One couldn’t help but think Riesling is far superior, but this had done well.

The Vinoptima Vertical


Working from oldest to youngest, the Vinoptima Gewurztraminer 2003 (18.0+/20) was the inaugural release, from young vines. At 13.5% alc and 16.0 g/l rs, this was light gold in colour, with a well-integrated, fully rounded character of honey, spices and complex secondary notes of toast, ginger and vegetals. Initially medium in sweetness, this had a long, textured, dry finish. On release, I thought this carried a little reduction, but with time, it has come together extremely well.

The product of an Indian Summer, where the grapes were harvested with “huge ripeness”, the Vinoptima Gewurztraminer 2004 (19.5-/20) was still a youthful wine as could be seen by the pale colour. A wine of power, nuance and freshness, this carried a richness and depth of spiced ginger fruit that merged to honey. Medium in sweetness, this carried weight, soft textures and alcoholic body along with marvelous acidity. At 14.5% alc and 20 g/l rs, this is a statement wine just beginning to harmonise and show its potential. A decade of cellaring possible.

Nick calls the 2005 vintage an eccentric one where the wines demonstrate the outcome of two periods of flowering giving some very ripe fruit which became botrytised and a portion of less ripe fruit with pronounced acidity. The Vinoptima Gewurztraminer 2005 (17.5/20) at 13.5% alc and 17 g/l rs was the most dark golden of the flight. Developmed and showing strong talc-like botrytis aromas and flavours of marmalade overlaying the honey spice and ginger, the palate was crisply acidic, giving a zestiness to the oiliness of texture. Some volatility noted. Somewhat disjointed at present, and a slight varietal bitter note on finish. Will it come together? I’d be happy to wait and see.

2006 was a low yield harvest and Nick calls this the “ginger-spice” vintage. The Vinoptima Gewurztraminer 2006 (19.0-/20) at 13.0% alc and 13.0 g/l rs carried the most wonderful perfumes and aromatics of florals, rose petals and lychees. Tightly bound, this was a baby, as indicated by the most pale colour. A beautifully elegant, fine-grained and tightly bound wine that is sure to develop great nuance and complexity. Not the breadth and depth of the other Vinoptima wines, but extremely attractive for it.

The most recent wine, the Vinoptima Gewurztraminer 2007 (19.0+/20) was from a “grand vintage – the best in Gisborne for 30 years” according to Nick. Though pale in colour, it was similar to the 2004 in style, with huge presence and power, ripe honey and ginger aromas and flavours, great concentration and immense depth. Still restrained in expression, the brooding power and extract gave real textural weight. Lovely honey and sweet fruit nuances appeared with time in the glass. 18.0g/l rs. A wine of obvious, great potential.

Sweet Finale


With perfect vintage conditions, a number of rows of fruit can be left out for the development of noble rot. This occurred in 2004 and 2007. We were able to taste the resultant wine from 2004, the latter vintage still to be finished. The Vinoptima Gewurztraminer Noble Late Harvest 2004 (19.5-/20) at 12.5% alc and 115 g/l rs was ideed spectacular with is balance between restraint and decadence. Full golden colour with brilliance, this was a dense and weight wine amalgamating honey, spices, and marmalade botrytis and complexing secondary savoury nuances. A voluptuous wine, unctuous and dense, a touch of flamboyance, yet one of style that retains the Gewurztraminer essence and heart.
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DAVID

Easter weekend I flew up to Auckland and had a great time visiting family. I made sure I went to Maison Vauron, a must if you enjoy French wines and also Galbraiths to try a few craft beers.

RICHARD

Roast Chicken for dinner evidently. Which Kumeu River Chardy shall I choose?
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