It is a clever move for national
wine distributor Vintners N.Z. to hold their Winemakers’ Showcase for the cream
of the Wellington
wine and hospitality trade before the coming 2010 vintage. It was an excellent opportunity to meet and
talk to key winemakers before they were committed to the all-important harvest,
which will put them out of contact for the next two months or so.
The quality of the wines shown and
tasted was a reminder that our industry is making some outstanding wines that
deserve to be supported, especially in these times of discounting and focus on
the lowest-price wines available. Whilst
cheap wines are a boon for the undiscerning consumer, it is always the wines
that are made with aspirations of top quality that are truly characterful and
exciting. These wines never come at a
basement-bargain price, and anyway, such wines should provide a better return
to their makers.
Each of the winemakers present had a
selection of their wines which are currently available, or about to be
released. And later in the evening
several of them brought out an older wine to demonstrate how well their wines
can grow in interest with bottle age. The
Bilancia Pinot Gris 2009 from Warren Gibson
is yet another benchmark, but I was impressed by his Syrah 2008, particularly
good for the vintage. Likewise, Adrian
Baker of Craggy Range showed the Gimblett
Gravels Syrah 2008, which was similarly vibrant. A ‘Block 14’ Syrah 2004 showed complex
secondary notes on a still very-fresh palate.
Look out for the new Curio wines, a
subsidiary label for Mudhouse, made by Nadine Worley, of which I liked the
Curio ‘d’Auvergne – Marlborough’ Gewurztraminer 2008. Star winemaker Matt
Thomson was showing his Delta wines, of which the ‘Hatters
Hill’ Marlborough Pinot Noir 2007 came across as a first-class, serious, and
ageworthy example. Winemaker Huw Kinch
was filling in for his boss Larry McKenna,
representing Escarpment Vineyard, and I thought the Pinot Gris 2008 a step
towards more fruit expression, but I was taken by the tightly bound ‘Hinemoa’
Late Harvest Riesling 2009. A 2003
Escarpment Pinot Noir was showing the classical forest-floor complexity which
is so food-friendly.
Andrew Greenhough’s ‘Hope’ Vineyard
Chardonnays are outstanding. His 2007
‘Hope’ Chardonnay is a picture of refinement, and a 2004 ‘Hope’ Chardonnay was
very burgundian. Likewise, Michael
Brajkovich’s Kumeu
River ‘Estate’ Chardonnay
2007 is international class wine.
Michael opened a 2002 ‘Estate’ Chardonnay which had developed breadth
and wonderful richness. An older Chardonnay was also a star with Annie
Millton’s line-up. Her 2006 ‘Clos de Ste
Anne’ Chardonnay was tight, youthful and brooding, promising much. For those who can’t wait 6-8 years, go for
the Millton ‘Opou’ Chardonnay 2007, never has there been a friendlier wine
made. And for those who don’t think
Pinot Noir can be made in Gisborne, they will be proved wrong by the 2008 ‘Clos
de Ste Anne’ Pinot Noir, soon to be released.
Our local mate in Gladstone, Paddy
Borthwick continues to produce excellent wine in his quiet, unassuming
way. His 2009 Chardonnay, to come soon,
is a cracker and the Borthwick Pinot Noir 2008 is another wine to seek. Our mate in Bendigo,
Central Otago, Rudi
Bauer is one of the most passionate and experienced
winemakers in the country. That’s why
his Quartz Reef Methode Traditionelle is so successful. But his heart is in Pinot Noir. The Bendigo Pinot Noir 2006 will be a
long-term wine that will reward any who cellar it.
It was a marvelous catch up with all
these top winemakers. The pride in their
craft and produce was very obvious and their wines were all worthy of drinking
and thinking. Be prepared to pay a
little more for the privilege…