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Wine Review

Weinbach Alsace 2004

By Raymond Chan
Domaine Weinbach has become one of our star producers of late. Having followed the wines from the domaine for over 15 years, we have come to appreciate the improvement in quality and finesse in style. This has been made all the more obvious by the comparison with the wines of Zind-Humbrecht, which we have followed for a similar time frame. The Zind-Humbrecht wines are taking another path which is less popular with many of the consumers of these top-flight Alsace wines. The Weinbach wines, as with Zind-Humbrecht, are late-harvested wines, and also express terroir and site. However, the character of the grape variety is allowed more say, whereas site and terroir are gaining the upper hand with the Zind-Humbrecht wines. This is not to say that the Weinbach wines are always superior to us. A recent comparison of 2003 vintage Rieslings – the Weinbach Schlossberg Ste Catherine L’Inedit and Zin-Humbrecht Clos Ste Urbain Rangan de Thann – resulted in the latter as the more preferred wine.

This tasting of 2004 vintage wines was highly anticipated; one month after a tasting of the 2004 Zind-Humbrechts. The Zind-Humbrecht wines were less than well-received, being overly alcoholic and some showing oxidation, volatility and sulphides. How were the Weinbach wines going to rate? The vintage is thought to be an excellent one, similar to 2002, with good ripeness and acidity, and taking care not to crop too heavily, the wines could be expected to be very attractive. Following are my notes on the wines served blind, in their varietal flights. Tasters were asked to order the wines in richness as labeled under the Weinbach nomenclature. As with the Zind-Humbrecht tasting, a Vinoptima Ormond Gewurztraminer 2004, made by Nick Nobilo, and highly rated in New Zealand, was included in the Gewurztraminer bracket.

Introductory Wine


As can be expected, Pinot Blanc is an ideal introduction. Dry, simple and fresh, and without the weight and richness of the following varietals.

Weinbach Alsace Pinot Blanc Reserve 2004
From the Clos des Capucins and a plot in the Cuvee Laurence vineyard. Pale strawyellow colour. Soft stonefruit nose, typically musky-musty, a hint of apricotty botrytis. Dr on palate, fullish in body with good, fresh acidity. Light stonefruits, steely, musky and very attractive. Some alcohol noticeable. Medium length finish. 17.0/20

Flight One: Riesling


A flight of wines with good varietal expression generally in the Alsace model. The Schlossberg Grand Cru rated higher than expected, and the L’Inedit obviously the richest of the flight and identified correctly by most tasters. Reduction detected by some tasters on more than one of the wines.

Weinbach Alsace Riesling ‘Ste Catherine’ 2004
From the lower part of the grand cru Schlossberg, late picked. Light golden straw yellow with depth. Fullish nose, steely, but with rich botrytis and honey aromas, good depth. Off dry, this is full-bodied with a firmness and density to the body. Steely fruit allied to honey and botrytis. Powerful palate and some grip resulting in a good dry finish, balanced by the acidity. The third preferred of the flight by the group of tasters. My score 18.0/20

Weinbach Alsace Riesling Schlossberg Grand Cru 2004
From plots at the top part of the grand cru Schlossberg. Full, even straw yellow colour. Tight nose, steelyish and minerally, shy in expression. Dryish palate, this is steely and pure, and has florals, with pronounced acidity. There is good body, depth and a solidness, but well cut. Moderate length. Many tasters found good weight with richness. The second preferred wine of the flight. My score 17.5/20

Weinbach Alsace Riesling Schlossberg Grand Cru ‘Ste Catherine’ L’Inedit 2004
From mid-slope in the grand cru Schlossberg, a selection of specific plots of exceptional ripeness, botrytis infected, but not with ‘tri’ for the botrytis. Bright light-golden yellow colour. Full, firm, fresh nose with lush honied botrytis aromas, rich and ripe. Slightly sweet, this is lusciously honied and juicy with honey, citrus and marmalade flavours. Rich and decadent, this is balanced by fresh, racy acidity. The alcohol is noticeable. Firm, tight and long. Some reduction picked up by some tasters. The most preferred wine of the flight for the group. My score 19.0+/20

Weinbach Alsace Riesling Schlossberg Grand Cru ‘Ste Catherine’ 2004
From the domaine’s oldest vines, over 55 y.o., situated mid-slope in the grand cru Schlossberg. Bright, light, full golden yellow colour. A little heat on nose, deep florals and steel, clean aromatics. Dryish, this has florals, honey and minerals. Some sulphide complexity, bordering on intrusion. A hardness and bitter note resulting in an overall harshness. The least preferred of the flight for the group. My score 17.0-/20

Flight Two: Pinot Gris


A good, sound flight, the alcohol noticeable on the wines, a trait that is inherent with the variety at present. Some sulphide issues again.. The most preferred was the Cuvee Laurence for its finesse and elegance and excellent acidity.

Weinbach Alsace Pinot Gris Altenbourg ‘Laurence’ 2004
From the Altenbourg site, located underneath the grand cru Furstentum. Bright, light, straw yellow colour with some golden hues. Full, dense nose with excellent volume and presence. Well-ripened fruit with botrytis. Fine expression. Slightly sweet with richness, honey and botrytis flavours, stonefruits and spice. The palate has heat and body from the alcohol. This is full and weighty, but is matched by the amazing fruit extraction. Real concentration here, very deep and very long. The second preferred wine of the flight. My score 18.0+/20

Weinbach Alsace Pinot Gris ‘Laurence’ 2004
From the limestone-clay soils below the Altenbourg site. Bright, light golden-straw, even colour. Full, open nose with perfumes, florals, spices, apricots and tropical fruits. Slightly sweet, this combines lusciouness with elegance and finesse. The palate shows beautifully balanced acidity to the richness of florals, spices and honey. Wonderfully textured, luscious and unctuous, but clean and fresh. A little heat from the alcohol on finish. The most preferred wine of the flight for the group. My score 19.0-/20

Weinbach Alsace Pinot Gris ‘Ste Catherine’ 2004
From the lower part of the Schlossberg grand cru and from Clos des Capucins. Light golden straw yellow colour. Full, open nose, steely fruit notes, also with sulphides noticeable. Dryish palate, this is soft and rounded with an u
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Easter weekend I flew up to Auckland and had a great time visiting family. I made sure I went to Maison Vauron, a must if you enjoy French wines and also Galbraiths to try a few craft beers.

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