By Raymond Chan
The 2008 vintage in Chablis was another
excellent one. Most commentators are
realising the combination of ripe fruit and acidity coupled with exceptional
terroir expression has resulted in classical wines worthy of purchasing and in
many cases cellaring. The portfolio of
William Fevre has always sat at the top of the hierarchy of the best producers,
in the oaked style. With 47 hectares,
Fevre is one of the largest vineyard owners in the region and the most
important proprietors of grand cru land, 16.3 ha in six of the seven vineyards. Since being acquired by Bouchard Pere in
1998, who in turn is owned by Henriot Champagne,
much investment has been made in vineyard upkeep and winery equipment. The financial input has enabled hand-picking
and reduction of yields to increase the quality a further degree. In addition to these changes, winemaker
Didier Seguier has reduced the input of new oak, as is the current thinking on
how Chablis fruit should be interpreted, Vinified and elevaged. The outcome over the past several vintages
has been even finer wines. Our tasting
of the 2008s was an outstanding one, where passions were ignited for these
superb and distinctive expressions of Chardonnay, grown on the Kimmeridgian
limestone soils. The wines presented
ranged from Petit Chablis and village Chablis to six premier crus and five
grand crus. All of the wines were
‘Domaine’ fruit sourced, except the Petit Chablis. Here are my notes on the wines tasted, served
blind:
Flight
One: Baseline Chablis
Of the total area of around 4,750 ha, village
Chablis accounts for 3,165 ha, from sites all around the town, and there are
715 ha for Petit Chablis, on cooler slopes.
First wine up was the Fevre
Chablis 2008 (18.0-/20), at 12.5% alc.
Very pale straw with a pale edge, this had a lovely, fresh, minerally
bouquet, laced with flint and florals, very fine, pure and cleanly
expressed. Quite an elegant wine, this
was beautifully fine and detailed, mouthwatering with mineral-soaked florals,
the acidity near searing, but with fruit ripeness. Classic Chablis with presence and
raciness. This was followed by the Fevre Petit Chablis 2008 (16.0/20), at
12.0% alc, light golden straw in colour.
Full and quite broad on nose, this was somewhat hard, and showing a
rustic edge. A wine of weight and depth,
quite full in structure, though a little hard with cooler notes, oak
noticeable, but not quite the nuance or charm.
Flight
Two: Premier Cru Chablis
The best premier cru sites lie next to the
grand crus, north of the village over the Serein river. These are Fourchaume, Montee de Tonnerre and
Mont de Milieu, of which Fevre has holdings in the former two. Fevre own around 12 ha of premier cru
vineyard in seven sites. In total the
premier crus cover 775 ha. These are
generally seen as the most ‘typical’ and best value. These wines were generally a step up over the
first flight. The first tasted was the Fevre Chablis 1er Cru ‘Fourchaume’ 2008
(18.5/20), at 12.5% alc, pale straw colour with green hues. This was intense on bouquet, but possessed
finesse, along with a touch of oak spiciness.
On palate quite steely, with lovely minerality, good fruit richness
forming great line. Still very tight,
the oak adding spicy nuances. Classical
Chablis in every way, and capable of 4-6 years life ahead. This was the second preferred of the flight
for the group of tasters. Then the Fevre Chablis 1er Cru ‘Vaillons’ 2008 (17.5-/20),
at 12.5% alc, lovely limpid straw yellow in colour, this was soft and full on
nose, a little flatter, some white peach, a touch of reduction showing. Soft, clean and pure on palate, this had some
breadth, and lower acidity level, leading to a soft, rounded finish. A gentle wine of breadth. Third was the Fevre Chablis 1er Cru ‘Montee de Tonnerre’ 2008 (18.5-/20), at
12.5% alc. Brilliant in colour, bright
straw yellow. This was very steely and
minerally, tightly bound with nervosity and some bacon-like oak
underneath. On palate, an amalgam of
fleshy, lush fruit with searing acidity, obviously low pH, very tight and
densely packed, the oaking comes through, and some alcohol heat just
noticeable. This is a seriously
constructed wine that will live 5-8 years easily. The third most preferred wine of the
flight. Then the Fevre Chablis 1er Cru ‘Beauroy’ 2008 (18.0+/20), at 12.5% alc,
straw yellow with green hues, quite pale on edge. A lighter, smaller-scaled bouquet, gentle and
soft with white florals, steel and minerals showing. Softly textured, this has delicacy and an
accessibility with finesse. Quite a
classical Chablis, with subtle, but good structure underneath. The most preferred wine of the flight of the
premier crus for the group of tasters was the Fevre Chablis 1er Cru ‘Vaulorent’ 2008 (18.5/20) at 12.5% alc, pale
straw in colour, this had a very full, rich and powerful nose, the white
stonefruits and steel a little dominated by powerful bacon-like oak. A full-bodied and rich wine, quite dense and
tight, near Puligny-Montrachet is style, layers of stonefruits emerge with
breathing. And an oak spice overlay. Still plenty of minerally acidity present
too. This is a statement wine that
should develop more interest and complexity over 5-7 years. Final wine in the flight was the Fevre Chablis 1er Cru ‘Montmains’ 2008
(18.0/20), at 12.5% alc, very pale in colour with youthful green hues
showing. A lovely unadulterated, pure
nose of white stonefruits and minerals, quite soft and with finesse and
delicacy. Not much more weight than the
village Chablis, but with a lovely harmony and balance. Everything is in excellent proportion.
Flight
Three: Grand Cru Chablis
The seven grand cru sites cover 106 ha on the
hillside opposite the town on the northern side of the Serein river. Fevre owns 16.3 ha in six of the sites. Being the most favourable in aspect, the
wines from the grand crus are richer and stronger, and more backward, with the
ability to age and improve in bottle.
This was seen to be the case with this flight of wines, again a step up from
the premier crus. These also showed
bottling sulphur, which cleared with air time.
The first in the flight was the Fevre
Chablis Grand Cru ‘Vaudesir’ 2008 (19.0-/20) at 12.5% alc, very pale in
colour with some yellow. Elegant and
fine on nose, this was still very tightly bound, the purity of steel and
minerals backed by balanced oak spiciness.
This had great weight and body, the extract quite considerable,
resulting in density. A classical, pure
and weighty grand cru, highlighting beautiful acidity. Next was the
The Products...
Fevre Petit Chablis 08
Fevre
Petit Chablis 2008 (16.0/20), at 12.0% alc, light
golden straw in colour. Full a...
$33.90 750 MLS