by Geoff Kelly
Wines
suited to cellaring are not necessarily expensive, stand out in judgings, or
initially appeal. Geoff draws on 40 years of cellaring wines, plus
wine-writing, research and judging experience, to suggest a few which will
reward over time…
Another year coming to a
close, and not many Worth Cellarings in that time, so we will make this one a
double-header. One problem is, so many of the really appealing wines are on the
dear side. As always, the search is for satisfying wines at an affordable price
– or nearly. But first a general word: in any discussion of what's worth
cellaring in 2011, do remember that 2009 was great for reds through just about
every New Zealand
district. In Hawkes
Bay in particular,
old-timers are saying it is the best vintage in 40 years. Many of the 2009s
from reputable producers will return a lot of pleasure from cellaring now.
Meanwhile some specific wines
of more general interest are:
The nv (but actually 2007) Nautilus
Cuvée Marlborough Brut is exemplary New Zealand bubbly, with genuine
baguette crust autolysis complexity, and a beautifully brut palate, compared
with the saccharine offerings of the major players. This will cellar for 8 or
so years, and be a joy to have around.
Among the whites, chardonnays
from Neudorf, Vidal, and Te Mata are all looking good, but for something a bit
outside the square, as a special-occasion white-foods wine for the holiday
season, 2007 Forrest 'The White' John
Forrest Collection is intriguing. It has all the body of chardonnay in a very
subtle big white burgundy style. It is optimised as a food wine, not a
varietal, and the oak is very low. Another unexpected one is 2010 Tohu Sauvignon Blanc Mugwi Reserve
which is a far cry from many wines from this firm. It is made in the Graves
blanc style, a group of wines really starting to gain traction in New Zealand.
It is not as austerely rigorous as some examples, and though it is a bit
oaky, it should be great with anything
smoked. A subtler version of the same style is 2010 Neudorf Sauvignon Blanc Brightwater, which is a truly
beautiful invisibly-oaked sauvignon. One could drink a very great deal of the
latter !
For reds not forgetting that
2009 is benchmark for pinot noir too, some more affordable wines to grab my
attention include 2009 Esk Valley
Syrah, just the standard wine. It is like a junior Bullnose, potentially
soft and fragrant, and very food-friendly - a kind of kiwi Cote
Rotie. Altogether sterner stuff from the same group can be had with the 2009 Villa Maria Syrah Cellar Selection.
It is a bigger wine, carrying a great density of berryfruit but also more oak.
It definitely needs cellaring. Both the Esk and Villa are supremely varietal,
and will give much pleasure over a number of years.
In a similarly affordable
price range, but from Italy
meaning the wine has much more chance of being 100% food-friendly, 2007 Antinori Toscana is really
something. It is a little oakier and more Bordeaux-like than it used to be, and
hence with the French grapes it no longer qualifies as Chianti Classico, but as
a red wine at table it will excel. Its junior sibling, 2009 Antinori Toscana Santa Christina appeals nearly as much, and
is under $20.
In the latter price range, a
wine from southern Italy
is well worth trying. 2009 Tormaresca Puglia Neprica has
the distinction for me of being the first negroamaro I would want to give
cellar space to. The whole style is a kind of burly Cotes du Rhone, which again
means it is very food friendly, even at this early stage. Great barbecue wine.
Finally, one from left-field.
From Hawkes Bay the attractively-named 2009 Crossroads Talisman is the best
ever released under this label. The winery plays this silly game of 'not
telling' for the grape make-up, but the whole wine is soft and rich like a big
merlot / syrah blend. It is a bit over-ripe and almost Napa Valley
in style maybe, but it should cellar for 5 – 15 years, and provide some fun
along the way.
There are a couple of wines we do not have in stock as yet, please email Anto or Alastair for further information
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