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Worth Cellaring

by Geoff Kelly
Wines suited to cellaring are not necessarily expensive, stand out in judgings, or initially appeal. Geoff draws on 35 years of cellaring wines, plus wine-writing, research and judging experience, to suggest a few which will reward over time.

MAY/JUNE 2009

This first wine, 2007 Thornbury Merlot Hawke’s Bay, has already had an outing in Regional’s ‘Grapevine Extra’ email newsletter, but repeating it here seems sensible. I was able to compare it with a number of good New Zealand reds from the quite exceptional 2007 vintage in Hawke’s Bay, and for the price it really has a lot to say. Bouquet is remarkably close in style and achievement to 2007 Te Mata’s ‘Coleraine’, but a little softer, less aromatic and cassisy, more floral and smooth. These characters fit in with the Thornbury being Merlot almost entirely, unlike the Cabernet-imbued ‘Coleraine’. Palate has the same velvety quality of perfectly ripe fruit harvested at a grand cru cropping rate, and raised in good oak. The American component does not stand out, the oak may not be quite so exquisitely (potentially) cedary as the ‘Coleraine’, but this is great wine at a sensational price. My understanding is the Thornbury label is (loosely speaking) a winemaker's play-label within the Villa Maria group, to try and achieve something remarkable. They have succeeded superbly here. It should cellar for 10 years, maybe 15.

Another 2007 vintage wine to appeal is Mission Estate ‘Jewelstone’ Syrah. This looks to be in the top stream of wines under this label, a wine somewhat over-looked despite good ones regularly since 1998. This may be the best so far. It is so ripe and rich it doesn’t show a marked floral component yet, but give it another 6 months. Te Mata’s ‘Bullnose’ ’07 has come on tremendously in that time, and this one should too. The roundness and richness of berry is terrific. Mission long ago gave up American oak in this wine. Unfortunately ‘Jewelstone’ wines are no longer quite the bargain they once were, but there is some pretty ambitious pricing out there in the Syrah market, despite the economic circumstances. And the French models are more. When proprietors feel they have a particularly good wine, they want to be seen as up there with our top wines, I guess. As a wine it is totally in the ‘Syrahs to challenge Hermitage’ category, though softer. Well worth trying.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Staff Recommendations

RAYMOND

Pinot Noir and burgundy remain an all-time favourite, and to share top examples is a treat for all concerned. These three were wonderful to compare...

DAVID

I went to Bell House on Friday night with a friend. With superb service, fantastic food and a great wine list, I think this is the Boulcott St Bistro of Trentham.
Breaking News
10-Mar-2010 We have a few spaces available still for the tasting of the rare, super-premium 2006 Chapoutier 'Selections Parcellaires' Rhone wines on Monday 15 March. 8 of the 13 wines are at least $200.00 a bottle... click here...

10-Mar-2010 Te Mata's 2009 whites are gorgeous and the 2008 reds show great purity of aromatics. The 2008 'Coleraine' continues a run of exceptional releases sine 2005... click here...

05-Mar-2010 The medal results of the 2010 Royal Easter Show Wine Awards have been announced. A record of 102 golds were awarded, of which the Villa Maria group scooped 16... click here...
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Library Tasting with Geoff Kelly - 1970 Bordeaux - 40 Years on
Thursday 11 March, 6.00 pm start, Cost $95.00 pp, Limit 21 places Note: There will be no refunds for cancellations made after 9.00 am sharp, on the

Chapoutier's 'Selections Parcellaires' 2006
Monday 15 March, 6.00 pm start, Cost $185.00 pp, Limit 30 places

Central Otago Wine: A World of Difference
Wednesday 17 March, 6.00 pm to 8.00 pm, Cost $25.50, Places are limited Venue: The Boatshed, Taranaki Street Wharf Bookings and Tickets: From Ti

Escarpment Vineyard 2008 'Kupe' & 'Insight' Pinot Noirs
Thursday 18 March, 6.00 pm start, Cost $35.00 pp, Limit 30 places

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