ITEM:
TOTAL:
Worth Cellaring

by Geoff Kelly
Wines suited to cellaring are not necessarily expensive, stand out in judgings, or initially appeal. Geoff draws on 40 years of cellaring wines, plus wine-writing, research and judging experience, to suggest a few which will reward over time.  Visit Geoff's website to see his comprehensive, independent, analytical and non-commercial reviews by clicking here.

AUGUST 2010 


Aussie thoughts ...  

It was fun to have Yalumba and Penfolds through the place within cooee of each other, so that with a bit of effort the wines could later be compared.  This kind of detached and comparative re-assessment is essential, for the ebullient Jane Ferrari of Yalumba presents the wines in a highly individualised manner designed to sweep you away into the magic of them all, without too much attention to the detail.  Not that Penfolds drag the chain in this: the comments for each wine presented by chief winemaker Peter Gago in the booklet/website are real dream-time stuff ...  

But back down on Earth, it is worth comparing 2009 Penfold's Pinot Noir Adelaide Hills Bin 23 with 2007 Yalumba Grenache Bush Vine.  These two varieties occupy a similar slot, one from cooler climates, one from warmer: both thin-skinned, fragrant, lighter-coloured, lower-tannin wines, which ideally are great with food.  The Penfolds Pinot Noir is extraordinarily good, within the context of mainland Australian Pinot Noir.  It looks like Pinot, it smells like ripe-year Pinot, plus it has magical Penfolds oak treatment (all French), which appeals to many.  Alongside the Grenache, the palate is unusually promising, seemingly all natural acid.  Cellar for 3–8 years.  

The Yalumba Grenache is lighter in colour,  even more fragrant with tell-tale raspberry and cinnamon pure Grenache aromas,  but a little spirity and less harmonious on palate than the Pinot,  simpler all through.  A great example of Grenache at the price,  though.  Cellar this one 3 – 8 years too.  

I have mentioned before in this column that the trick to cellaring Penfold's reds is to seek out the cooler, more fragrant, more varietal and less Australian ones, wines which are frequently dismissed by gung-ho Australians.  In these straightened times, let's concentrate on the more affordable ones.  2008 Penfolds Shiraz Coonawarra Bin 128 is quite simply remarkable, one of the best 128s in my more than 40 years of cellaring them.  It is nearly Syrah-like in its berry profile, cassis more than the boysenberry, only the faintest mint, and its all-French oak is great.  At the moment it is young and angular, so grab a case and leave it for 5 years.  It will cellar for decades.  

From the Cabernet field, most of them are just a bit too euc'y and coarsely Australian, or early-picked to try and not be Australian, but then ending up as incomplete wines.  The exception is the 2008 Yalumba Cabernet/Shiraz The Scribbler.  You can really smell the cassis, the Shiraz fills out the palate nicely, and there are no euc'y taints at all.  You can have more than two cases for the price of one bottle of Grange, and over 10 years they would be a lot more fun.  Leave this one 5 years, too, before making a start on it. 

And what about all the flash wines?  2007 isn't a great year for Penfolds well-regarded Bin 389, the famous Bin 707 straight Cabernet from 2007 is much too euc'y and oaky to be worth cellaring (from an international viewpoint, anyway), but the 2005 Grange will be attractive in its rich blueberry style, much later.  It's not as good as the sensational 2004 Grange,  though.  From Yalumba, their highly-regarded Cabernet Sauvignon Menzies in its '05 incarnation is good, but austerely simple alongside Church Road Cabernet/Merlot Reserve.  Their top Shiraz Octavius in its 2005 form is a sixth the price of '05 Grange, not quite as rich, a little more oaky, but pretty damn good.
 
2009 Penfold's Pinot Noir Adelaide Hills Bin 23:  Retail:  $36.15    
2007 Yalumba Grenache Bush Vine:  Retail:  $21.90    
2008 Penfolds Shiraz Coonawarra Bin 128:  Retail:  $20.95   
2008 Yalumba Cabernet / Shiraz The Scribbler:  Retail:  $23.90
    
 
 
Staff Recommendations

RAYMOND

The Beefsteak & Burgundy Club of Tinakori met at Boulcott Street Bistro for the AGM. Boy, can Rex Morgan cook. The wines were great too...

DAVID

I attended an Advanced Bordeaux/Burgundy wine course and thoroughly enjoyed it..
Breaking News
31-Aug-2010 - We've got a tiny allocation of 2007 #Beaucastel Chateauneuf. It's a great vintage and will fly out the door Click Here
31-Aug-2010 - Relatively unknown Cobblestone Te Muna Pinot Noir 2009 tops Bragato Wine Awards. See the trophy winners here Click Here
31-Aug-2010 - Beefsteak & Burgundy Club of Timakori met for the AGM/lunch at Boulcott St Bistro. Great food and great wine Click Here
31-Aug-2010 - 2008 was a GREAT year in #Chablis. We're tasting a dozen Wm. Fevre Grand and 1er Crus on Mon 20 Sept. Book now! Click Here
View More...
Sign-up   below to be the first in the know on everything from tastings to specials...
Te Mata's New Release Sneak Preview
Thursday 2 September, 6.00 pm start, Cost $25.00 pp. Limit 30 places

Spade Oak - Gisborne's Innovative Winegrower
Monday 6 September, 6.00 pm start, Cost $25.00 pp, Limit 30 places

Domaine Schlumberger: Steep – but well priced
Thursday 9 September, 6:00pm start, Cost: $50pp, Limit 30 places

Villa Maria - Single Vineyard Specialist
Tuesday 14 September, 6.00 pm start, Cost $30.00 pp, Limit 30 places

Contact & Enquiries
Main Line: - 04 3856952

Orders Line: 04 3849735

Fax Line: 04 3828488

Hours: Mon – Sat 9am –10pm
Sunday & Public Holidays
11am - 7.30pm
Need Help?
Try our FAQ Section

If you can't find what you are after, give us a call or pop into the store!
People! Who we are
We're a talented mix of people who love what we do, and we've been doing it for over 20 years! Click here to find out more
Copyright © 2010 Regional Wines Limited
Website by: Slice Of HAM   Design by: Plastic Studio