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Wine Review

Yalumba Masterclass 2008 With Jane Ferrari

By Raymond Chan
In our annual Yalumba Showcase fixture, the Masterclass with Jane Ferrari is a highlight. Many people would say that it would arguably be the highlight of the tasting calendar at Regional Wines & Spirits. The combination of the wines from Yalumba – both innovative and traditional, always moving forward, plus the fun, informative and down-to-earth presentation by Jane Ferrari is practically unbeatable. The learning and entertainment value of the Masterclass sessions is unbeatable.

This year’s Masterclass looked at the new wines taking over the Barossa-Eden range. These wines are placed closer to their more illustrious ‘Rare and Fine’ wines hence their distinctive packaging akin to these wines. The Masterclass also focussed on the superb ‘Hand-Picked’ range and featured the latest releases of the ‘Rare and Fine’ icon wines. As can be expected, the wines were exemplary. Here are my notes on the wines tasted:
White Wines

Starting with the Yalumba Eden Valley ‘Wild Ferment’ Chardonnay 2007 (17.5+/20), this is a new step for Yalumba in elegance with the use of Burgundian clones coming on stream. Youthfully pale, with stonefruit and minerals, this was fresh, fruity and crisp with citrus and apple characters and subtle oak nuances. An expression of finesse and elegance. Then moving to a brace of Viogniers, the specialty variety. The Yalumba Eden Valley Viognier 2006 (18.5+/20) from the 22 acre Vaughan vineyard had intense wild ginger and apricot notes, and was full of mouthfeel and weight. Drinking well now. On another plane was the Yalumba ‘Virgilius’ Viognier 2007 (19.0/20) employing the new Condrieu and Tablas Creek clones. A wine of great refinement, perfume and supple textures. Silky, yet with power and warmth. Real exoticism here.

Grenache Reds


The underdog red variety, but being championed by Yalumba. ‘Raspberry and Rosemary’ is its essence. The Yalumba Barossa Valley ‘Bush Vine’ Grenache 2007 (18.0-/20) was pale in colour, this belying its intense aromatics of raspberries and herbs, fresh and lively palate that also displayed some heat. Nevertheless good juiciness and moderate tannins giving balance. More savoury, complex, earthy and interesting was the Yalumba ‘Hand-Picked’ ‘Tri-Centenary’ Grenache 2003 (17.5+/20). However a drying palate lent an austerity, though there was excellent concentration. Made from vines planted in 1889.

Fuller Bodied Reds


A very well-received flight of fuller-bodied reds, increasingly richer as we progressed through them. Starting with a Robert Hill Smith inspired Yalumba ‘Hand-Picked’ TGV 2005 (18.0+/20) a blend of 90% Tempranillo, 5% Grenache and 5% Viognier, this was bright with cherryish aromatics and had an elegant, supple, but juicy palate with fine textures. Approachable and a touch of delight. Next was the Yalumba Barossa Valley Shiraz/Viognier 2005 (18.5/20), a wine that punches way above its price station. 5% Viognier has added real lift and brightness to the pepper and berryish fruit. Aromatics are a key, with violets and spices on a well-concentrated palate. Even better value was the Yalumba ‘Patchwork’ Shiraz 2006 (18.5+/20) from vines averaging 30 y.o. sourced from eleven vineyard sites.
Impenetrable purple red, this was solid and dense with black fruits, spices and pepper and balanced oak. A degree of lusciousness with fine, and good tannin backbone completed this rather superb and attractive number. Moving up a gear, the Yalumba ‘Hand-Picked’ Shiraz/Viognier 2005 (19.0-/20), with 5% Viognier co-fermented, was full, dense, chunky and meaty with more complex layers woven into the wine expression. Though solid and rich, there was a freshness and elegant thread, giving juiciness and lusciousness. Here the Viognier was less obvious. Then on to the Yalumba ‘Hand-Picked’ MGS 2004 (18.5/20), a blend of 60% Mourvedre, 30% Grenache and 10% Shiraz. Yet again, an increasing complexity of aroma and flavour, ethereal and savoury, but with excellent sweet dark fruit on a relatively robustly structured palate. Some bottle variation was experience was noted.

Rare and Fine


Always the mainstay of the Yalumba Masterclass events, the latest releases available in New Zealand of the Rare and Fine labels are the features. The Yalumba ‘Menzies’ Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 (18.5-/20) is an ever-improving label. The best-yet applies as each vintage shows improvement. Elegant with classical, but fully-ripened cassis and blackcurrant aromas and flavours. Definitive cool-climate expression, but with a warmth and sweet richness. A classy and fine-featured wine. The Yalumba ‘Signature’ Cabernet/Shiraz 2004 (18.5-/20) will be one of the great releases of this label. Very tight in its construction, this has great intensity, concentration finesse and subtlety. A slight VA lift, there are layers of aromas and flavours of dark fruits, liquorice, pepper and spices. Luscious and ripe, this will unfold over the next two decades. A must-buy. The final wine, the Yalumba ‘Octavius’ Shiraz 2003 (19.0-/20) showed its vintage character with a touch of garnet, indicating a propensity to being more forward than say the 2002 and 2004 vintage wines. Still a huge wine, massive in ripeness and richness, pepper, chocolate, spices and oak, there is a plushness and decadence, but also an powerful underlying grip and structure. Fruit from seven sites, vines 45-106 y.o. A worthy flagship wine, as always.
The Products...
YALUMBA GRENACHE BUSH VINE 07
Yalumba Grenache Bush Vine 07
The underdog red variety, but being championed by Yalumba. ‘Raspbe...
$22.35 750 MLS
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BERESFORD SHIRAZ BEACON HILL 10
Beresford Shiraz Beacon Hill 10
...
$14.90 750 MLS
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Staff Recommendations

DAVID

Easter weekend I flew up to Auckland and had a great time visiting family. I made sure I went to Maison Vauron, a must if you enjoy French wines and also Galbraiths to try a few craft beers.

RICHARD

Roast Chicken for dinner evidently. Which Kumeu River Chardy shall I choose?
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Library Tasting: 1992 – 1994 Cabernet and Shiraz From Several Countries
Thursday 17th May, 6.00pm start, Cost $50.00 pp Limit 22 places. Upstairs Tasting Room, Regional Wines and Spirits, 15 Ellice St, Mt Victoria. Booking

Craggy Range 2010 Prestige Release with Steve Smith MW
Tuesday 22nd May, 6.00 pm start, Cost $30.00 pp, Limit 80 places Venue: The Boatshed, Taranaki St Wharf Bookings: With Regional Wines, Tel: 385-6952

Burgundy Tasting - Maison Drouhin 2009
Thursday 31st May, 6.00pm start, Cost $35.00 pp Limit 30 places. Upstairs Tasting Room, Regional Wines and Spirits, 15 Ellice St, Mt Victoria. Booking

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