Craggy Range Chard Gimblett 09

Early-ripening Chardonnay sites in Hawke’s Bay had to deal with botrytis pressure from February rain events. However following favourable March weather allowing advanced picking, this combined with the most strict selection, meant extremely healthy fruit came available for this sleek and slim-line wine that bears more than a passing resemblance to first-class Chablis at the premier cru level. Rod Easthope sees this as "medium weight, minerally, fresh and beguiling”; it is "our tightest Gimblett Gravels Chardonnay yet”. And we concur, seeing it extremely pale and youthful in appearance, the bouquet elegant and restrained with white stonefruit and citrus notes underscored by subtle herb nuances. Here the palate elegant with citrus, mealy, nutty and oak-spice flavours bound tightly and energized with crisp acidity. The balance is spot on for perfect proportion and this will keep well for 4-6 years, all the while matching creamy sauced seafood dishes. Made from clones 95, 96, 15 and Mendoza, whole-bunch pressed and wild yeast fermented to 13.35% alc, and given 10 months aging in 23% new French barriques. A stylish beauty.   RC Apr 10

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