The brainchild of the legendary Brian Croser, Petaluma retains its reputation as a top Australian producer, despite a change of ownership to the Lion Nathan brewing liquor group. This outstanding Chardonnay, made by winemaker Andrew Hardy, is the result of a warm, dry and early vintage from fruit sourced from seven different sites, the vines now over a quarter of a century old. Fully barrel fermented and matured in 60% new French oak, 90% of the wine underwent MLF with a resultant 14.0% alc. The wine is sheer class in the modern style. Elegant and taut with show-off acidity, the aromas and flavours are sleek, but very intense. Grapefruit, citrus, mealiness and wonderful complexing sulphide nuttiness feature, as is the vogue nowadays. The wine unfolds remarkably in the glass and should develop exceedingly well over the next 5-6 years. 96 points by James Halliday. RC Jan 10

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