Thornbury Merlot Hawkes Bay 07

This 2007 Thornbury Merlot Hawke’s Bay, has already had an outing in Regional’s ‘Grapevine Extra’ email newsletter, but repeating it here seems sensible. I was able to compare it with a number of good New Zealand reds from the quite exceptional 2007 vintage in Hawke’s Bay, and for the price it really has a lot to say. Bouquet is remarkably close in style and achievement to 2007 Te Mata’s ‘Coleraine’,but a little softer,less aromatic and cassisy,more floral and smooth. These characters fit in with the Thornbury being Merlot almost entirely,unlike the Cabernet-imbued ‘Coleraine’. Palate has the same velvety quality of perfectly ripe fruit harvested at a grand cru cropping rate,and raised in good oak. The American component does not stand out, the oak may not be quite so exquisitely (potentially) cedary as the ‘Coleraine’, but this is great wine at a sensational price. My understanding is the Thornbury label is (loosely speaking) a winemaker's play-label within the Villa Maria group,to try and achieve something remarkable. They have succeeded superbly here. It should cellar for 10 years, maybe 15.  GK May 09

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