Made from fruit from sites in the Gimblett Gravels,
the grapes were totally destemmed and fermented to 14.0% alc in open top vats
with hand plunging to a maximum of 30-32°C and aged 20 months in 56% new French
oak. Full, dark purple ruby in colour,
this has a bouquet that gently pervades with its exotic perfumes of sweetly
ripened black fruits, pepper, exotic Asian spices, liquorice and prunes. The palate seduces with its sweetness of
fruit, black pepper and spice cut and very fine-grained tannins. This has intensity with finesse, and its
balance provides a deceptive approachability which enables it to be enjoyed
immediately. There is more than
sufficient underlying structure to enable a decade of bottle age, all the while
being a deliciously elegant accompaniment to fine red meat dishes.
RC June 10
Made in a more serious
and ageworthy style than the ‘Cellar
Selection’ labels, Villa Maria’s ‘Reserve’ labels often suffer from seeming less
accessible and drinkable than it’s lower priced siblings. The truth is that
the Reserve wines show more
constitution and complexity, but often need more time to show it. Cuisine says
“Its spectacular aromatics, and flavours of five spice and dried herbs, were
much admired. It is built to last…” RC July 09